Friday, March 20, 2020

Papercut Sapporo Coat in Blue Wool and Faux Fur

I sewed a coat for someone else! A gorgeous blue wool Sapporo Coat with faux fur sleeves.
In late winter 2019, right before I discovered I'd need major surgery (read about it in this post), my cousin showed me a child's coat that she discovered online, and asked if I'd sew her an adult sized one. The coat was unique in that it had faux fur trim in the middle of the sleeve. Of course I said yes!  After all, she's family AND has been cutting and styling my hair for more than twenty years. I was thrilled to be able to use my talent to give back to her.

I immediately purchased a beautiful bright blue wool and faux fur from SR Harris.
But I was stuck as to which pattern to use.

Then Boom! It hit me! The Papercut Sapporo Coat would be perfect! While it didn't have the same shape as the child's coat, the cocoon shape would look fabulous on my cousin.

Fortunately she was extremely patient with me, as I wasn't able to sew her coat until this year due to the surgery, cross-country move, yadda yadda yadda.

When we visited Minnesota in November 2019 I brought the shell of the coat (seams basted, no lining) so she could try it on and give her approval as to whether I should continue or find a new pattern.

Success! She loved the cocoon shape. Yea, it was pretty oversized on her (I sewed the XS)  but she liked the look. 
I was still planning on adding the faux fur between the dropped shoulder and lower sleeve.

However, we decided it would look better to just sew the lower sleeve out of the faux fur. I do think we made the right decision.
I used lining fabric for the backside of the lower sleeve instead of self fabric as designed.  I used a champagne colored coat lining from Emma One Sock.

By the way, no matter what fabric you use, consider using lining for the inside of the lower sleeve instead of the self fabric. That lower sleeve is just too bulky otherwise.

I had purchased the lining based on yardage listed on the pattern, but ended up being short about 1/2 yard when I decided to line the inside of the lower sleeve.

I immediately went to the EOS website to order more lining, but that particular color was no longer available!  I contacted EOS hoping that perhaps it was just out of stock, but alas, I discovered the manufacturer had discontinued the color. As I began an internet search for something similar I received an email from EOS. They had searched and found two yards on a shelf, was I interested? YES! And I have to give a huge shout out to EOS for going above and beyond in helping me locate additional lining.

When I cut the lining out I added an ease pleat to the center back and lengthened the lining pattern piece so it would gently fold over the hem.  This is just something that is typically already drafted in a lining pattern for a coat - or at least in coats I've sewn. 

After the fact I discovered this blog post from "Sewing Like Mad" that basically said it appeared there were issues with the drafting of the coat pattern piece.  Apparently you can get a revised pattern if you can show proof of purchase. Since I purchased my hard copy from Fabric Mart Fabrics I'm unable to get a replacement. Fortunately I had instinctively realized the lining needed to be adapted.

 I added piping between the lining and the facing as I think this little detail really elevates the look.
I used a metallic gold piping I found at Hobby Lobby. I did have to serge the raw edge as the piping fabric unraveled easily.
I also included a label, care instructions (dry clean only), and a size label.
Probably my favorite part of the entire coat is the front pockets!
Other than the lining, the pattern was easy to sew, and I think it is a fabulous design. I sure with I'd taken more pics of the coat before I shipped it to her.

She now has her new coat but has been extremely busy so I don't have a photo of her modeling the coat yet. I'll post on my Instagram account when I do!

Blessings. Pin It


  1. Wonderful jacket! I love your fabric choices and that faux fur sure doesn't look faux to me!

  2. This is so cool! I bet your cousin loves it. So unique!



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