Sew a romantic strapless ruffled maxi dress: a tutorial

As promised yesterday, here's a sewing tutorial so you can sew your own Summer Dreams strapless ruffled maxi dress.

It's very similar to the strapless maxi dress tutorial I shared with you a few months ago.  This time you'll customize it to fit your measurements.

Note: If you have the One Yard Wonders Book you can create this dress starting with my Strapless Belted Tunic design. 

Supplies
Gauze or other lightweight fabric
1/4" elastic
Single fold bias tape
Thread 

The finished length of the dress is approximately 51" measured along the side seam.  Lengthen or shorten as needed. 

Make your dress pattern
Measurement A
Measure your bust around the fullest part.
Add 12" (this is the ease) and divide by two.
Example: Full bust = 36" + 12"  = 48" / 2 = 24"

Measurement B
Measure your hip around the fullest part.
Add 12" (this is the ease) and divide by two.
Example: Full hip = 38" + 12" = 50" / 2 = 25"

Measurement C
Add 1" to measurement B
Example: Measurement B = 25" + 1" = 26"

• On a large sheet of paper draw a vertical line 37" long down the center of your paper. 
• Measure 15" down from the top of the vertical line and make a mark.
• Starting at the top of the line draw a horizontal line equal to measurement A centered on the vertical line.
• Starting at the 15" mark draw a horizontal line equal to measurement B centered on the vertical line.
• Starting at the bottom of the line draw a horizontal line equal to measurement C centered on the vertical line.
• Connect the top line to the bottom line along both sides.
• This is the front and back of the maxi dress.
• If your full busted, on the front piece measure 1" to the top of the vertical line. Make a mark. Use a French curve to draw a gently curved line from the each side seam to the mark at the center front.

Cut the dress
Cut 1 dress front
Cut 1 dress back
Calculate and cut the upper ruffle length
Multiply measurement A by 1.5. This is the ruffle length Measurement D.
The ruffle width is 10"

Cut 1 front bodice ruffle measurement D x 10"
Cut 1 back bodice ruffle measurement D x 10
Example. Measurement A = 24" x 1.5 = 36" so the ruffles to be cut are 36" x 10"
Calculate and cut the lower ruffle length
Multiply measurement C by 3. This is the ruffle length Measurement E.
The ruffle width is 17"
Cut enough lower ruffle pieces to equal measurement E x 17"
You'll need to piece the ruffle to get the desired length
Example. Measurement C = 26" x 3 = 78"

You now have the upper ruffle, the dress, and the lower ruffle.

Sew the dress
Pin the front and back dress right sides together.

Stitch side seams.

From the top of the dress measure down 10" on the wrong side and make a mark.

Draw a line around the entire dress.

Be sure to use a removable fabric pen or chalk.

This is the line for the waistline casing. Eliminate this step if you do not want an elasticized waist.

Pin the single-fold bias tape on the inside of the dress aligning the bottom edge of tape on the marked line.

Stitch in place close to each edge of the bias tape.

 
Pin the front and back upper bodice ruffles right sides together.

Stitch side seams.

Turn bottom edge 1/4" to the wrong side; press. Turn under 1/4" again to the wrong side; press. Stitch in place.

Gather the upper edge of the ruffle. To gather use a long stitch length and stitch along the upper edge 1/2" from the edge leaving thread tails at each end. Stitch a second row of stitches 1/4" away from the edge.

With right sides up (wrong side of ruffle to right side of bodice), pin ruffle to upper edge of bodice matching side seams. 

Adjust gathers to fit.

Stitch ruffle in place. 
 

Finish raw edge of seam with bias binding. 

To create the casing turn under 3/4" on the upper edge of the bodice; press. 

Stitch casing to the bodice 1/2" from the top fold being sure to keep the ruffle free. Leave a 1" opening to insert the elastic.

Cut a piece of 1/4" elastic a comfortable upper chest measurement plus 1/2".

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert in the casing.

Pull elastic thru the casing. Lap the elastic ends by 1/2" and stitch together securely.

Pin the lower ruffles right sides together.  Stitch seams.

Turn bottom edge 1/4" to the wrong side; press. Turn under 1/4" again to the wrong side; press. Stitch in place.

Gather the upper edge of the ruffle.

Pin ruffle to lower edge of dress right sides together matching side seams.

Adjust gathers to fit. Stitch. 

Cut a piece of elastic a comfortable waist measurement plus 1/2".


Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert in the casing.


Pull elastic thru the casing. Lap the elastic ends by 1/2" and stitch together securely.

Done!

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