Friday, August 26, 2016

The Summer of Interesting Fabric Sewing Continues: Vogue 9176 Contrast Back Jacket

I'm calling this my summer of sewing interesting fabrics. 

Recently,  I blogged about the "fringey" knit I used to sew a shrug using Vogue 9190.  Today I'm sharing a jacket I sewed with this floral fabric.
I don't even know what to call this fabric. It looks like a mesh, but it's not sheer. There is no stretch. It is fairly stiff (but not heavyweight) and didn't press easily. Solid black appears in the "holes" of the fabric , but the backside is not solid black.  If anyone knows what the fabric is called, please leave a comment. 
I had spotted the fabric in late spring and was intrigued but left it behind as I wasn't sure what I would sew.  When I went back two months later it was completely sold out.  Two huge bolts. 

Or so I thought. I discovered one lone piece that measured about a 1-1/4 yard, piled on the top shelf of the remnant fabrics. Marked down to $6 per yard. I quickly placed it in my cart.

With so little fabric I wasn't positive what I would use it for, eventually choosing to sew an unlined jacket using Vogue 9176.   
I knew I liked the jacket, and the contrast back meant I could get by with less of the main fabric.

Because the fabric was a remnant with limited yardage, I had to make a few changes. I shortened the sleeves to 3/4, shortened the length of the jacket by about an inch, added a seam to the center back yoke, pieced the front facing, and used a contrast for the collar and upper back facings.  
The contrast back has multiple pleats sewn to the curved back yoke.
For the contrast back I used the same fabric that I used for the shoulders on my Burda 6630 Tee.  I love the look on the back of this jacket, but it was so tedious to sew!  My sewing machine needle had trouble with those little rows of pleated ribbon. I hemmed the bottom by hand instead of machine stitching per the pattern instructions.
The jacket does not have a dart, so I did an FBA and added a dart to the pattern.
As I mentioned I used a different fabric for the collar facing. It's a poly-lycra black suiting fabric.
I didn't want the solid black to show on the collar lapels, so I added a vertical seam on the front facing and pieced the facing with the fashion fabric and the black fabric.  When the jacket is worn the pieced facing isn't visible. 
I didn't realize how boxy the jacket looked until I took this selfie in the company workout room. After a loooooooong day at work I probably should have been using the workout room for more than taking a selfie!
Even though it does have a boxy shape due to the stiffness of the fabric, I do like the way the jacket turned out. 

I've had fun these past few months discovering unusual fabrics at SR Harris Fabric. Stay tuned as I am in the process of sewing another one of my "interesting" fabric purchases. 

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7 comments:

  1. Sharon, this is stunning! Love, love the unusual fabric 💕 Great use of it!

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  2. You used your remnant beautifully! I'm looking at this on a phone and the pics are small but it almost looks like a laser cut fabric. I was sad to miss SR Harris when I visited Minneapolis a few years ago.

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    1. Thanks! It may be a laser cut, I'm not sure. But I'm thrilled to have found a use for the unique fabric. If you're back in Minnesota, let me know as I'm always up for a visit to SR Harris!

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  3. Very nice jacket. You do marvelous work!

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  4. I think your very brave, I would be too scared to attempt these fabrics but the result is great, it's a fab jacket.

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    1. Thanks! I used to be afraid to cut into fabrics I was unsure of, but I've become more willing to experiment as I've improved my sewing skill!

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