Monday, November 30, 2009

Burda Style #112 skirt with diagonal front pleat


Like many of you, when my December Burda Style magazine arrived, I knew this skirt - number 112 - would be one of the first items I would sew.

Not only because I like pencil skirts, but because I was intrigued by the front diagonal pleat that gives the skirt just a little something extra.

The skirt itself it a fairly quick project to sew, and fortunately, you should be able to sew it without much need to reference the Burda written instructions.

My first step, after tracing the pattern and remembering to add seam allowances - yea!, was to play with the pattern pieces so I would understand how the buttonholes and buttons worked to create that diagonal pleat.

I have to admit it took me a few tries as I kept folding the pleat backwards. Once I had it figured out I carefully marked all of the buttonholes and foldlines on the waistband and began sewing.

There are three buttonholes sewn onto the waistband, but only two buttons are needed. That's because two of the buttonholes will line up with another another when the band is folded acting like one buttonhole. They are used for the button that shows on the front of the skirt.

Burda Fashion 12 09 #112 Skirt buttons

The other buttonhole is also in the waistband, but is not visible from the front. It ends up behind the pleated portion of the waistband and is used to secure the back section of the pleat in place with the second button that is sewn on the waistband.

Burda Fashion 12 09 #112 Skirt buttonholes

Here's a photo to help you visualize. The button on the left in this photo, is sewn to the portion of the waistband that is behind the buttonhole.

Burda Fashion 12 09 #112 Skirt

That pleat is then folded over and attached to the button on the right in this photo.

Burda Fashion 12 09 #112 Skirt overlap

And here is the finished skirt! I'll post a photo of the skirt being worn as I think it's a slenderizing silhouette. I was a bit concerned that the pleat might not lay properly creating a pooch in an area where most of us wouldn't want it, but I didn't find that to be the case.

The fabric was purchased from SR Harris recently (remember the 45 minute stash building excursion?). It is a lightweight black pinstripe wool that drapes beautifully.

Burda Fashion 12 09 #112 Skirt

I wanted to line this skirt, but couldn't wrap my brain around how to do so without adding unneeded bulk at that pleat. So I left it unlined. However, when I read Carolyn's post last night about this skirt, I had a "duh" moment when I read Marji's comment about underlining. It's the second comment in this post. By that time this skirt was already completed, but I will keep the underlining in mind for the next version.

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14 comments:

  1. What a clever way of adding a design element. You are so lucky you can not only sew so well, but have a fantastic figure for wearing those beautiful clothes!

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  2. Gorgeous skirt and love the diagonal pleat detail.

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  3. The front pleat does add a nice design element to the skirt and the fabrics was a great choice.

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  4. I really love this skirt in pin stripe. It emphasises the diagonal pleat so nicely.

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  5. I love your skirt - it's so businesslike.

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  6. Great skirt - love it in that striped fabric!

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  7. Well you have certainly answered a few more questions for me! Altering the pattern was big and now I have instructions on how to make the buttonholes and buttons work. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

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  8. Good job. Looks great in the pin stripe.

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  9. I love that skirt and think a lot of people are going to try it - me included! Thank you for the tips.

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  10. I like your versio better. You did a great job.

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  11. looks great in the pinstripe - interesting to see what happens with the grain when the skirt is pleated. And, this is the type of fabric that I envisioned it working well in, when discussing this with Carolyn. There was some concern about the pleat adding bulk across the front, but as you've noted, when made with a tropical weight wool or a menswear suiting it lies flat and lovely.

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  12. Love the skirt, this is one of the few lately that make me *almost* want to wear skirts (or dresses for that matter). Very interesting on how the buttonholes and pleat work together. Thanks for the pictures.

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  13. I am so falling in love with this skirt.

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  14. I like what the stripes are doing with this design very much. I'm relieved, since the one I cut out is in a stripe.

    Yours looks really great.

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