BurdaStyle Jan 2023 Blouse 104 - A Boho Blouse with BIG Sleeves
Even though they've been around for awhile, I'm still liking the statement sleeve trend. That's why I put this top on my to-sew list as soon as I received my January 2023 issue of BurdaStyle magazine.
The magazine describes the blouse as "this blouse has the look of a lavish bouquet. Its secret? XL puff sleeves whose tiny gathers ensure that the flowing viscose drapes beautifully". It's a cute description but doesn't really tell you much about the blouse, except it does indeed have big sleeves!
Let me provide a few more details for you. It is a pullover style, with a v-neckline finished with an interfaced facing. The hem is slightly curved and the sleeves have a slit opening, with a button and loop and narrow band. I used two gold ball buttons that I've had in my button stash for decades.
The pattern is from the January 2023 magazine, blouse #104, and is also available as a PDF here. It's designed for lightweight blouse fabrics with the sample in the magazine sewn in a viscose.
While there are only three main pattern pieces to the top, it does require 2-5/8 yards (55" wide) as the the sleeve is a bit of a fabric hog.
So I dug through my fabrics and found an unknown fiber content (probably polyester) crepe print that I had purchased at Fabrictopia in San Antonio, TX. It was on one of the bargain tables, so I would have paid about $5 per yard. I originally though I'd use it to sew a multi-tiered dress. However, after I had it home I realized it was semi-sheer and I'm past the stage where I want to wear a slip with my dresses.
Instead I used it for this top and will donate the extra yardage. I think the print and texture works well in this design.
The sleeve fullness is created with 10 tiny pleats, not gathers as described. Marking and sewing all those pleats accurately is a bit time consuming, but the end result made the effort worthwhile.
I cut a 40 (14) going to a 42 (16) at the waist/hip area, which is the size I currently sew with BurdaStyle magazine patterns.
One drawback of BurdaStyle magazine patterns is the lack of finished garment measurements. Yes, after I trace the pattern I can flat measure it, but I forgot. Sometimes BurdaStyle patterns fit me without a full bust
adjustment, but looking at the pattern pieces on this one I couldn't
quite determine where to make the adjustment. So I cut it out, crossed my fingers, and sewed.
When it was time to add the sleeves to the bodice front and back, I basted the seam so I could remove the stitches if I needed to make adjustments. I tried on the top and it fit, but was tighter across the bust that I wanted.
I removed all the basting stitches and, since I had plenty of fabric, I recut the front piece. I added 3/4" on the front bodice piece from the front armhole notch to the the waist. Instead of a 5/8" seam allowance, I stitched that section using a 1/2" seam allowance.
I drew dotted lines in red on the pattern piece drawing in my magazine to remind remind myself what I did if I decide to sew this again.
I restitched the seams and was pleased with the fit. There's enough room in the bust area, and I like how the top curves in ever so slightly in the waist area.
I serged the bottom edge of the blouse, pressed that to the inside, and stitched in place.
Here's the back view.
I like the top quite a bit, and wore it often during February and
March. Every time I wore it I received compliments. Those sleeves are a bit hit!
It's now getting warmer and this won't be worn much until next fall. I'd like to sew another for the spring season and if I do so I would shorten it a few inches.
As you can see, both of my fur babies stayed close to me while I took photos for this blog post.
I sewed this blouse on my BERNINA 770QE PLUS and finished the seams using my BabyLock Evolution serger.
Have a blessed day and Happy Sewing!
Oh! I almost forgot. I have a video review of the pattern if you like to watch YouTube videos. Just clik this link: https://youtu.be/gQQY7J2XjB8