Itch to Stitch Melrose Top ~ A Short, Boxy Woven Tee

Even though the calendar tells me it's early September and the stores are filled with "It's Fall Y'all" merchandise, it's too early to pull out the sweaters and cardis. 

And I've never been a fan of Pumpkin Spice :-) 

Because the temps will be warm here for quite some time, I'm beginning to transition to fall by sewing a few easy-to-wear tops.  

Right now, that means loose-fitting, woven tees.  Such as this one, the Melrose Top from Itch to Stitch.

The pattern was released in 2019, I purchased it soon after, and am FINALLY sewing one!  It includes a dress and a longer version of the top, each with an elasticated waist. 

I was most interested in View C, a relaxed-fit top with a bias bound round neckline, dolman sleeves with cuff, and a bottom band. 

Many of the Itch to Stitch patterns offer cup sizes, this pattern included.  I've sewn quite a few from this designer, and know I can trust the measurements provided.

For this version, I choose to go up one size and used the DD cup piece.  I originally lowered the bust point by 1/2", which is an adjustment I typically need when sewing this brand.  However, I ended up resewing the dart bringing the bust point back to where it was marked on the pattern. 

The fabric was in a large bundle I purchased at a local church garage sale for $4.  Turns out I was there on 1/2 price day.  Even at the full price of $8 it would have been a bargain.  I ended up with about 20 or 25 yards of fabric, I can't recall at this point.  Most of it is usable for sewing muslins, but others, like this blue and white check, can be worn and not look dated. However, without a burn test I don't know the fiber content.

This is an easy sew with only a front, a back, sleeve cuffs, neck band, and hem band.

But I made it more difficult on myself by cutting and sewing the contrast bands on the bias. It just took more time.  I do like the look though.

I used one of my favorite BERNINA feet, the 10D Edgestitch Foot, to stitch the bands in place. 

I wasn't fond of the instructions for bias neckband, although I do appreciate the level of detail provided to attach the neckband to the top.  The instructions have you encase the seam allowance and then stitch in place.

Maybe the designer left the seam allowance untrimmed to provide extra support in the neckband? I don't know. I found it difficult to get the band folded over the seam allowance neatly and ended up trimming my allowance to 1/4".  Even with that, the neckband sits slightly away from my body.  Next time I'll simply turn to the inside and stitch. 

The cuff on the dolman sleeve flares out slightly, I think you can see that in the photos. I'm not sure if it's the design, or because I placed the cuffs on the bias.

Next time I plan on shortening the length of the sleeve.  It stops at the fullest part of my bust creating a somewhat horizontal line, which I think can make my bust area look even larger.  Although I'll always wear a necklace with the top to create a vertical line.

Although I used the DD cup pattern piece for the front, I discovered that there was enough width, but not enough length.  It's not too noticeable. In fact, I'm probably the only one who will notice.  Still, I will add about 3/4" to the front so it isn't shorter than the back.

The top is designed to be short and boxy, which was the look I was going for.  I'm happy with my wearable muslin, and will sew myself another one of these tops.

I sewed the top using my BERNINA 770QE Plus, and finished the seams with my BabyLock Evolution. 

Have a blessed day and Happy Sewing!