Vogue 1704 - a Rachel Comey Linen Top with BIG Sleeves!
I present to you my first finished WIP (work in progress) for 2022!
Y'all, I wish I hadn't waited so long to sew this one as I adore this top!
I mean, c'mon, Look at the amazing sleeves!
I purchased the pattern when it was first released in 2020, and cut it out soon after. I don't recall why I tucked it away, but I THINK it was because I didn't have the right color thread on hand.
The pattern is Vogue 1704, a Rachel Comey design that includes both the top and pants. The design is from her Spring 2019 line. It's look 7 at this Vogue.com runway show link.
When I purchased the pattern, I didn't realize the front edges of the top were finished using an overcast stitch.
Because I don't read the description on the back of the envelopes :-)
Rather than buy serger thread in a color I would never use again, I purchased a couple of regular spools of thread and used those in my serger.
The front pieces are overlapped and stitched in place.
There is a zipper opening on the left side seam. Another detail I was unaware of because I didn't bother to read the description. I didn't have one that matched, but it's invisible so I used a lilac one. There are side slits on each side. The hem hangs properly when worn, I'm not sure why it looks off here.
If I had known both of those details before I cut the top out I may have altered the pattern to a button front, or perhaps moved the invisible zipper to the front. Now I'm glad I didn't know as I like the top just as designed.
The top is described as fitted. The bust for a size 14 (what I used) is 36" and the finished bust measurement printed on the pattern is 40-1/2" giving this top 4-1/2" of ease. However, I would have only had 1/2" of ease - way too tight! So I did a rather large FBA, almost 2". (The pattern already had a dart.) By doing so I also gave myself additional length and width. I like the fact that this has a bit of shaping at the waist, but is still loose enough to feel comfortable.
Now according to my upper bust measurement, I should start with a size 12 and do a full bust adjustment, but I find it easier to start with a 14 and do a slightly smaller FBA :-)
The sleeve has an upper and lower section. You are instructed to sew them together with a French Seam. I didn't do that. I just stitched the seam and finished it with my serger.
There are three upper darts, and four lower pleats that contribute to the fullness. The sleeve is finished with a narrow hem.
Have I mentioned how much I like these sleeves? :-)
The collar and front facing are both interfaced. My interfacing was a medium-weight and it wasn't enough to keep the collar from flopping over.
I suspect the fabric is a linen rayon blend, but I purchased it at SR Harris, and those bolts rarely have fiber content listed.
Because my fabric is a linen blend I like the softness of the collar.
I have no desire to sew the pants. I live in jeans and yoga pants now that I've officially retired.
But the top! I need another as I find myself wearing this one whenever the weather cooperates. (Here in Texas, it's currently just above freezing with the threat of snow and ice as I write this.)
I don't normally take photos in our backyard, so the little one was quite curious what was going on and didn't want to leave me alone.
Blessings and Happy Sewing!.
Cute! And I LOVE the color!
ReplyDeleteGreat color and very interesting treatment of such a couture looking design.
ReplyDelete