Monday, February 24, 2020

Metallic Gold Jacket with Statement Sleeves ~ Vogue 1667 Pattern Review

The moment this pattern was released I knew I wanted to sew the jacket. I was in love with those sleeves! And sewing it out of a metallic gold fabric makes me love it even more. 
The statement sleeves are what attracted me to the pattern, a lot of fullness and an open slit starting near the elbow.
The pattern is Vogue 1667. When it was first released I thought the pattern for the red pants was included, but it is not. The pattern for the pants with the button front trim is Vogue 9282.  I do wish that information had been included on the pattern envelop as it would have saved me the trouble of enduring the super slow Vogue website while I searched for the pattern.  Boy, do I sound lazy or what?!? :-)
The jacket pattern is rated Average and fabric suggestions are crepe, gabardine, and men's suiting. My gold/black metallic fabric is a crepe purchased from SR Harris on one of my recent visits to Minnesota.

The jacket is partially lined, with a notched collar, front button closure, and option for patch pockets and sleeve flounces.

Oh!  I almost forgot to mention one of the best things about this pattern!  It has A, B, C, and D cup size pattern pieces included.  I used the D cup pattern piece lowering the fullness by 3/4".

Well you know I wanted those sleeve flounces!
I first thought about sewing this jacket - and the pants - in a bright pink woven stretch suiting I have in my stash. However, once I received the pattern I realized I only had enough fabric to sew the jacket.  Okay, no biggie. I can sew those pants in black :-)  But then I realized my pink fabric was too heavy for those sleeves.

You see the fullness is created with pleats along the back side. Plus the inside of the sleeve is designed to be sewn out of the jacket fabric.
Yes I could have used the pink lining like I ended up doing on my metallic jacket, but I had already changed my mind and decided to sew this jacket from the metallic fabric.

So let's talk about that pink lining, okay?

If you follow the pattern instructions you will line the upper back, the patch pocket, and the upper portion of the sleeves. I'm not sure why pattern pieces and instructions to fully line the jacket were not included.

I drafted a full back and a side front lining piece, and also choose to line the inside of the sleeve flounce instead of using the jacket fabric (okay, I'll admit it's because I didn't have enough fabric).  Instead of bagging the lining, I ended up hand stitching the lining in place along the upper and lower sleeve seam (by the elbow).
I know pink might not seem the logical color choice for this jacket's lining, especially since it peeks out in the sleeve flounces, but I really like it. It's completely unexpected, and I've always been a fan of bright pink.

I tried the jacket on to determine where to place the closure, instead of going by the pattern piece. It feels comfortable where I have it, but looking at these pics I move it down another 1/2" or so.
Which I can do because there is no buttonhole! Yep, you read that correctly. This fabric hated - and I do mean hated - buttonholes with a passion! I fought the good fight, I really did. I tried different needles and different thread and stabilizing the backside. I even pulled out my old Elna sewing machine (which I'm not a fan of but I keep on hand as a backup machine), but I finally raised the white flag and gave up. I almost stitched a buttonhole by hand, but in the end I simply stitched a large snap to the jacket and called it a day.

I'm really pleased with my jacket! While I sewed black pants to wear with the jacket, in all reality I will likely pair it with a tee and jeans.


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2 comments:

  1. beautiful jacket, great fit!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Nice Article. Thank you very much for sharing this awesome post with us. Keep Posting. Long Coat Men

    ReplyDelete

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