Saturday, July 22, 2017

Go with the Flow: Burda 05-2016-103 Blouse Review

"Oh, please, please, please pick me" begged the silk print blouse. "Aw, shoot, passed over again. I don't get it, I'm much more attractive than that boring old black top she's going to wear."

I'm pretty sure if this blouse could speak that's what I would hear when I stand in my closet debating over what to wear with my jeans. Don't get me wrong. I think it's a beautiful blouse!
The colors are vibrant, the silk fabric feels divine, and there are many understated details.

Such as the narrow neck bias binding that extends into front ties.
The soft pleats in the back sewn into the self-lined yoke.
The front pleats that provide fullness for the bust.
And my favorite detail (one that you likely wouldn't notice) is the center front placket with hidden buttons.
It might be easier to see in this picture, which shows my well used button cutter and board.
This functional front closure is not needed. After all, the blouse has a wide (and low!) neck opening and is easy to just pullover your head. But why not? I like that there's a little extra special detail to the blouse, even if I will never actually use those buttons.

So why don't I wear my beautiful silk blouse?  Because I find it too loose and flowy. Whenever I put it on and look into the mirror, it doesn't look flattering to me and I end up changing into something else.

See what I mean? There's a lot of fabric there!
Let's talk a bit about the pattern. It's from the May 2016 BurdaStyle magazine. (You can download the blouse pattern here.) When this issue arrived last year I marked nine designs that I wanted to sew, as it  was one of my favorites issues in a long time.  This blouse, number 103, was the first project I wanted to tackle.
It requires a lightweight fabric so I choose a silk that had been in my stash for a few years. The teal print was a Thakoon fabric purchased online from Mood Fabrics. I had originally bought the fabric for a project I was working on for Sew News magazine, but ended up choosing a different fabric for my final article.

I really liked working with the fabric, even though it had a tendency to ravel.  I didn't have quite enough fabric for the sleeve binding and ties, so I finished the sleeves with a casing and narrow elastic instead.
This blouse took some time to sew due to all the details.  And if you've sewn designs from BurdaStyle magazine, you already know the instructions are not always the easiest to follow.  That was especially true for this blouse in regards to the self-lined yoke.
This is how I stitched the yoke and lining to the front so the seam would be completely enclosed without hand stitching.  You may or may not find this helpful. I'm including it on this post mostly as a reminder to myself should I choose to sew this blouse again.  Note: I followed the sewing instructions to attach the yoke and yoke lining to the back of the top first.

Step 1: Baste the right side of the yoke to the right side of the blouse front, keeping lining free.
Step 2: Fold the yoke lining over and align to the basted seam.
Step 3: This looks odd, but stick with me, it works. Reach in and pin all layers together (the front of the blouse will be sandwiched in between the yoke and yoke lining).

Step 4: Stitch the seam and turn so the seam is inside of the yoke and yoke lining.
Step 5: Continue sewing the blouse per BurdaStyle magazine instructions.
I do yokes so rarely that I always have to stop and think about how to do this. I hope you find it helpful also.  Or perhaps you have an easier method!  If so, share in the comments!

If you choose to sew this blouse, you might want to go down a size, depending on how much ease you want. I used my usual BurdaStyle magazine size (I did do a small FBA). I assume there is a lot of ease because the blouse is meant to be worn tucked in, but those days are long behind me. That may be why I'm finding this fit much looser than I prefer.
Yea, yea, I know. It's an easy fix. Just eliminate some of the excess from the sides. I am going to do that - someday.  It's just that I prefer to sew something new instead of fixing something I've already finished! Maybe you can relate? I really should get on that so I can enjoy wearing this cute blouse.

Which I think is even cuter when worn with my adorable sewing accessory :-) .  She's getting pretty old so I enjoy having her pose with me. Whenever she's not sleeping that is.

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  1. Great job dear..You look so beautiful ..I always to make a dress myself but i can't . Thank you so much for your wonderful post.
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  2. Lovely fabric! I have to be honest it is not the most flattering blouse. It does look nice but I always see you in more fitted tops which always fit and look great. I like your sewing accessory!

  3. Yes, that's probably why every time I put it on I take it off and change into something else. I liked the idea of a big floaty blouse, but it doesn't work on me!

  4. The silk blouse is lovely and I would wear the heck out of it but I know that the loose fit isn't for everyone! I'm sure when you're ready you will get around to taking the sides in.

    Though I really love when summer comes. You sew a lot and share all of your goodies here and on Instagram. It's nice to see what one of my faves is doing.

  5. I love paisley prints and this one is perfect for jeans and skirts as well! Have you tried just a half tuck or mh latest trick is to feed the bottom of a top through a belt loop on the front of my jeans. Great alternative for waist definition. Love to your sweet old girl Sharon!!

  6. That was me (Jude) above

  7. That was me...your ol pal Jude the unknown... :-)



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