McCall's 8339 - A Twist Front Knit Dress
I'm a sucker for any knit garment that includes a drape or a twist. In fact, I've sewn quite a few over the years. Unfortunately I don't have many photos of them as I've misplaced the zip drive that held the pics of many of my sewing projects.
When the McCall's fall 2022 patterns were released, I knew I'd purchase this one when it was on sale. Why? Because of that twist front!
The dress pattern is McCall's 8339. There's no description provided with the pattern, so you have to look at the line drawings for details.
Oh wait, I checked the website. It is described as: Fitted twist-front dresses have different lengths and sleeve variations. View B and View C have front slit.
For example, the size 14 body measurements are 36" Bust, 28" Waist, 38" Hip. The finished garment measurements are 39-1/2" Bust (3-1/2" ease), 31" Waist (3" ease), 40-1/2" Hip (2-1/2" ease).
I expected to see less ease in the bust area, but I guess the twist provides the excess fabric in that area.
It's designed for two-way stretch knits (50% cross grain) such as jersey, interlock, stretch velvet.
I suspected I would need a full bust adjustment, as I've gained quite a bit of weight over the years with much of it going to my chest. However, I just could not wrap my brain around how I would do an FBA on this pattern!
I looked at those pattern pieces and tried pinning them together, but gave up. Instead I pulled out some knit fabric and quickly sewed myself a fit sample.
I sewed a 14 at the neck/shoulder and bust, and a16 at the waist/hip. I did take up the seam on the top of the shoulder another 1/2", and took out 1/4" at the side seams.
While I don't mind a dress that skims my body, I don't like one that hugs my curves. At my age (mid 60s) it's difficult to hide the lumps, bumps, and bulges. And I refuse to wear Spanx type undergarments. I'll just sew my clothes a larger size :-)
For minimal adjustments, the fit right out of the pattern envelope is not bad. For reference I'm 5' 5-1/2" tall.
I can't believe I'm even writing this, but I would lower the neckline a bit. Normally I don't like to show cleavage, but I think another inch or so on this style would be more flattering on my large bust.
The waist seam hits 2" above my natural waist. Because there is no description, I'm not sure if it is supposed to be at my natural waistline or not.
There is supposed to be 3/8" elastic inserted into a waistline casing. I did not include that.
The pink knit had a 50% stretch across the width and about 20% across the length. For some reason I thought it required four-way stretch of 50% each way, but now that I look at the fabric requirements again I can see that isn't the case.
There appears to be enough room in the bust area, but it does rob some fabric from the back.
I shortened the sleeves by 2", because I was short fabric. Turned out it's a good length on me.
The neckline is finished with a facing. It's designed to be interfaced, but I eliminated that. Again, this was just a sample to test the fit.
Even though it appears to fit, I'd like to try and add more fabric to the bust area. Now that I've sewn the dress, I THINK I can figure out where I need to alter the pattern to do so.
I won't wear this pink dress as I feel like it draws too much attention to my bust. But let's get real. When you're as large as I am basically anything I wear draws attention LOL.
I'll donate this one as it will look cute on someone at least a size smaller than I am. Who knows? I might even see someone wearing this someday. If I do I'll be sure to compliment them!
This was sewn on my BERNINA 770QE PLUS. Because you don't always need a serger to sew knits!
The fabric was a gift from a sewing friend I met through blogging years ago. I would link to her sewing blog, but it's no longer active.If you want to see what else she sent to me check out the video on my YouTube channel.
BTW, you'll likely see lots of dogs in my pics as both of them like to be near me whenever I'm outside.
Have a blessed day and happy sewing!