Monday, April 26, 2021

McCall's 8180 ~ Big Collar Button Front Shirt

Once the 80s oversized collar trend left I swore I'd never wear it again.  I resisted when I started seeing the big collar hit the runways and online stores. Yet here I am today wearing a big collar shirt and I'll admit (sheepishly) that I like it. 

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews
The pattern I used is McCall's 8180, which has no description printed on the pattern envelop. However, there is one included on the website: Misses' peter pan ruffled, collared blouses with short & long sleeves. View A: ruffled collar. View B & C: large collar.

McCall's 8180 Pattern Envelope - SomethingDelightful dot com
McCall's 8180 Sewing Pattern Cover from somethingdelightful dot com

I purchased the pattern to use as a starting point for a top I had seen online that I wanted to recreate. Here's a screen shot (I have no idea why I didn't save the information regarding where I found it so I could get more details regarding fabric, etc.)

Inspiration Top for McCall's 8180

I also saw this top that is so close to view C of this pattern.  I do like when I can sew a designer look with an existing pattern that 1) fits me the way I want and 2) costs much less than the RTW.  This one retails for $990 on Farfetch.  Even if I purchase a high-cost silk crepe de chine I could sew this for less than retail :-)

Back to this pattern.  The pattern did not list if it was fitted, semi-fitted, loose fitting, etc. and I wanted something something loose fitting. I'm all about comfort in this season of my life and I don't want a fitted woven shirt. Unless it includes lycra :-)

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews

I can never tell for sure the intended fit based on the modeled garment on the pattern covers, so I looked at the line drawings. With the little "folds" drawn into the lower portion of the top I thought it would be semi-fittted.

Line Drawings for McCall's 8180 Button Front Big Collar Shirt

Then I looked at the finished garment measurements. Based on a size 14 (the size I start with for a woven top) the finished bust measurement is listed as 39", which would only provide 3" of ease in the bust area.  The finished bottom width is listed as 44", which would provide 6" of ease.  According to my Fit for Real People book, the 3" of ease at the bustline would classify this top as "fitted".

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews

I added a 1" full bust adjustment, and graded the bottom to a size 16. After the side seams were sewn I tried it on and ended up resewing the side seams with a 3/8" seam instead of 5/8" to try and get a little bit more room.  If you look closely you can see that the buttons are pulling slightly across my bust, indicating that I need more room in that area. One inch was not enough and I'll need to add at least another inch to get the look - and feel - I want.  

It's not as evident while I'm standing still taking photos, but it pulls when I move.

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon SewsMcCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews

I knew this was going to be a test garment, so I used a low-cost lightweight cotton that I think I purchased at Hobby Lobby a few months ago. I think it turned out cute, but I don't know how much I'll actually wear it as it feels tight across the bust.

I eliminated the interfacing in the collar as I wanted a soft collar.  All seams were finished using my serger.   I used a narrow three-thread on my serger to hem the sleeve flounces instead of a narrow hem. The pattern calls for 3/8" buttons and I went up to a 1/2" because of my aging and arthritic hands. The difference isn't so much that it changes the design, but enough to help me button and unbutton the top easily.

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews

I think the back looks nice.   The top looks great when I'm standing still, but when I move it gets hung up on my high hip, so I am going to add more ease to the hip area next time.  I also like the length of the top.  This is a way I can wear the current "cropped" top look and still have enough coverage to feel comfortable that I won't expose my belly, an area I prefer to keep under wraps :-)

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews
One thing to note, the instructions do not have you add ease stitches to the sleeve cap before inserting into the armhole. Now I don't draft patterns, I just sew them, so perhaps this is normal at times? I don't know.  I went ahead and added two rows of ease stitching between the small dots and eased the sleeve into the armhole.

McCall's 8180 Big Collar Button Front Shirt with Elbow Length Sleeves with Ruffle in Yellow Stripe Cotton worn by Sharon Sews

I'm surprised at how much I like this top!  I didn't like the pattern at all when it was released, and never would have purchased it if I had not see that inspiration top.  I think with a few additional adjustments to get the fit I want I'll be sewing myself another summer top. 

Have a blessed day! 




 

 


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2 comments:

  1. I "get" the slightly romantic and feminine vibe of this top and I too always feel drawn to them. Why don't you just open all of the buttons and wear this top as a cute jacket! A pretty soft floral cami would be beautiful beneath this darling top. You look so pretty! Love, Jude

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  2. Love this top on you and the color is great. How about doing that sheer band around the waist? I think you could carry it off nicely.

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