Monday, January 29, 2018

Vogue 8674: Wool Cape with Laser Cut Hemline

Have you ever purchased fabric online with a project in mind, only to have the fabric arrive and your plans change?  That's how this cape came to be.
This lovely wool blend fabric was purchased online from Emma One Sock in September 2017. I loved the laser cut out border.  So much so that I didn't read the description closely. When the fabric arrived I discovered it had a black fusible attached to the back giving it a lot of body but also making it a bit stiff. 
It was destined to become an outer garment, but which one?  How could I best show off that fabulous border? I pulled out multiple coat patterns while trying to decide which one to sew.  I thought about sewing a coat and have a colorful lining pop through the laser cut design, but decided I wanted that portion to remain unlined. 

I ended up sewing Vogue 8674 (now OOP), deciding it was the perfect pattern. The body of the cape - the vest - is fitted and lined, while the cape portion is single layer and unlined. The custom fit sizing eliminated the need for me to do an FBA (full bust adjustment) - happy dance!
The cape portion is attached at the neckline keeping it in place.

I cut the back portion on the fold so the laser cut design would remain continuous.
The vest portion is fully lined. I choose to use an animal print that I had purchased about a year ago from Fabric Mart Fabrics.  It's heavier than a typical lining and I love the surprise inside the gray of the cape!
And the vest has inseam pockets! Perfect for stashing the phone when running errands.
The pockets are animal print too - our little secret :-)
The vest is sewn first, including the lining, before the cape is attached.  The darts and shoulder seams of the both body and lining of the vest are sewn. Next, the lining is stitched to the body at the center front, armholes, and bottom edges. After trimming the seam and turning the facing right side out, I staystitched the lining as far as I could. The only thing left was to stitch the side seams.
I lined up the side seams, right sides together, and stitched leaving about a 4" opening on one of the lining side seams.
I then carefully pulled the entire vest through that opening, turning it right side out.  After a good press, I stitched the opening closed.  The vest was now completely lined!
The cape is stitched front and back at the shoulder seam. Instead of pressing open, as instructed, I trimmed one of the seams, pressed them both to one side, and top stitched in place. 

The collar is interfaced and self lined. I thought about using a lighter weight fabric for the lining portion, but realized it would be seen when the collar button was not buttoned. (Which will be most of the time for me!) I like to press open the seam that attaches the collar and collar facing together before turning the lining in place. I think it defines the edge more.
I was concerned that it would be difficult to add the collar because of the thickness of all of my layers. I had three layers - the lining, the vest, and the cape - to attach the collar to (which is also interfaced).  However, it went together nicely. I was able to turn under the collar lining edge, press it, and hand stitch it in place with no problems.

I added my label along with a "dry clean" care label to the upper back.  I'll know it's dry clean only, but if I would ever donate the item I want to make sure the new owner knows how to care for the cape.
I choose the buttons as I thought they mimicked the laser cut on the cape.
Can we talk about buttonholes for a moment?  I practiced making buttonholes multiple times on scraps consisting of my three layers - lining, interfacing and fashion fabric - until I had a buttonhole that looked good! And wouldn't you know it?  As soon as I did the first one on my cape messed up!
Sigh...it's not easy to rip out those buttonholes!  Fortunately I started at the bottom so any stray stitches I may have missed won't be as noticeable.
Try as I might, I just couldn't get my Pfaff to sew a decent buttonhole on this cape!  I ended up pulling out my 90s era Elna to finish the job.  Still a wee bit botched on the inside, but good enough for me :-)
It's been quite a while since I've sewn an outer garment and it was quite fun! 
It's much too cold for me to wear this cape now, but I expect come mid-March I'll be able to wear it frequently!











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12 comments:

  1. Oh my gosh-this is a fantastic sew! The laser cut hem really makes this special, as does your excellent workmanship. Just beautiful.

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  2. So gorgeous and chic. That is the perfect design to show off that laser cut border. I really like that vest design with a cape. Great pattern and nice work.

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  3. Beautifully sewn wonderful cape. Great use of a glorious fabric.

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  4. It's lovely, and those buttons are just perfect!

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  5. Beautiful! What a brilliant pattern! Love your fabric choices - I'm just agog :) Making a cape is HIGH on my list for this year and I've been looking at a number of patterns but this one is ideal because that vest will keep your chest nice and warm. I'm cape obsessed and this one is a true inspiration.

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  6. Oh my Sharon! This is really spectacular! Your decision to use this beautiful laser cut fabric for a cape is perfection because a cape offers lots of real estate to show off the border design. I'm so impressed! Also, it looks beautiful on you! Love, Your pal Jude in S.D.

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  7. I've learned to go directly to my vintage Kenmore for BHs. Let the old pros do it, I say. They do it better and more reliably. Great jacket/cape.

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  8. Wow! That is beautiful! What a perfect pattern to show off that border. Hope you get to wear it soon!

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  9. I love this, what a brilliant pattern to show off the laser cut fabric - lots of border on show!

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  10. You picked the perfect pattern to feature the laser cut bordered fabric. Beautiful cape! And that is a very wearable cape pattern, the vest part keeping you warm and the "cape" firmly in place.

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  11. Thanks for sharing this post, this post is really very informative
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  12. I was hoping to buy the pattern, but they don't seem to sell it anymore. Could you share it somewhere? I'd love to make it one day :)

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