**** If you're looking for the Barbie Chef Hat instructions, you'll find them on this post *****
Sewing itty-bitty doll clothes continues with part 2 - construction. You can read part 1 here.
Now that you’ve got the itty bitty patterns cut out - or traced - it's time to start sewing. A bit of practice tempered with patience and you’ll be producing runway worthy fashions for Barbie - other that itty bitty doll - in no time.
Here are some tips that have helped me when sewing these little garments.
- Ditch the serger. Sergers are great time-savers, but not for Barbie clothes. I've successfully serged clothing for American Girl dolls, but not smaller than that. (And if you have, please leave tips for us in the comments!) I think they're not the right tool. Not only is it difficult to serge such a small seam, the extra thread created by the serger would result in too much bulk.
- Don’t remove pattern pieces. Keep the pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you’re ready to sew, or clearly mark which piece is which. The pieces are so small it can be hard to distinguish from one another. and not know until you've sewn the wrong ones together. Trust me. You don’t want to rip out stitches on these little things.
- Take time to pin. Until you become very familiar with sewing tiny clothes, take time to pin seams before sewing. One pin will keep the shoulder seams together, while one or two works well for longer seams. It will help you keep the pattern pieces lined up properly. Believe it or not, when you’re working with something that small, being off just 1/8” of an inch can affect the entire garment.
- 1/4” seam allowances. I mentioned this in my previous post. Most of the doll clothes patterns are designed with 1/4” seam allowances. A 1/4” (quarter inch) quilting pressure foot is a great tool that will help you sew the seams accurately.
- Stitch length. Use a smaller stitch length. When I sew garments for myself I typically set my stitches at 3.5 mm. When sewing Barbie clothes I use a 2 or 2.5 mm.
- Use flat construction. This simply means to sew pieces together flat whenever possible. Your goal is to avoid the need to sew in small circular areas. Usually the pattern instructions will be already be written this way.
- Top or bodice: Sew the shoulder seams. Finish the neck edge, by hemming, adding lace or sewing on a collar. Finish the center front or center back. Finish the sleeve edges or add a sleeve before sewing the side seams. If this is the bodice to a dress, sometimes it’s easier to sew the skirt front and back to the bodice before sewing the side seams. The pattern you choose will make that determination.
- Sleeves: Finish the bottom of the sleeve hem and then sew the sleeve to the armhole opening before sewing the underarm and side seam. Could you imagine trying to sew a sleeve into that tiny armhole opening?
- Pants: First, sew the side seams. Hem the bottom of the pants. Next, sew the center front and center back (don’t forget to leave an opening at the center back) and finish the waist edge. Lastly, sew the inner leg seams.
- Casings: Elastic casings are popular in doll clothes – including casings at the waist and at wrists. Add your casing and elastic flat unless you enjoy wasting hours in frustration as you try and insert elastic into a tiny casing and circle. Secure the elastic in the seam allowance before sewing the seam or your elastic could pop out as the garment is placed on and off the doll.
- Adding elastic: I have found it much easier, and more durable, to zigzag over soft 1/8” elastic instead of creating a small casing. Don't cut the elastic to the needed length. Instead mark it at the length with chalk or a pin. Gently stretch the elastic as you zigzag, ending with the chalk mark or pin at the seam edge. Cut off the rest of the elastic. Otherwise it can be difficult to sew that last fraction of an inch in place.
- Neck edge facings. Some patterns will include facings for the neck (and waist) edges. These look absolutely adorable and can actually be easier to add than a tiny hem. Instead of finishing the facing edge with a hem, consider fray check with the fabric has a tendency to ravel.
- Line instead of face. The easiest way to finish the neck edge is to line the entire bodice. Added bonus? The doll’s outfit will look very professionally sewn.
- Use Seams Great to finish edges. I know it's designed for finishing seams when sewing garments, but it works beautifully as a bias binding to finish a Barbie sized neck or armhole edge. Stitch it to the right side of the edge using a 1/4" seam allowance. Carefully clip any curves. Turn it to the wrong side, finger press and stitch in place.
- Pressing. Just like when sewing for people, Barbie's clothes will look much nicer if you press while you sew. Unlike the big clothes you can get away with finger pressing many of the seams, especially if you're using natural fibers. The Clover mini-iron also comes in handy when pressing these little seams.
- Sewing my hand. Sometimes you just can't get the itty bitty item you're working on to behave using the sewing machine. That's when you just have to get out that hand sewing needle and thread and do a little stitching by hand.
Until then you can start sewing using one of my Barbie tutorials and sew an apron, (complete with chef hat and oven mitt) a dress or a Snuggie (TM).
(Parts of this post were originally post on TheCircle.orghttp://www.thecircle.org/sew-barbie-clothes)
(I'm not affiliated with Mattel or any other doll manufacturer)
12/19/11 Edited to add: Be sure to read the comments as there are some good tips there also.
12/19/11 Edited to add:
12/19/11 Edited to add:
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