Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Next Up - Butterick's Duro Dress (Number 4849)

I now own most of the "Duro" style dress patterns (as well as HotPatterns version). I wasn't 100 percent thrilled with the Simplicity version I made and haven't worn it yet. The fabric I choose for the McCall's version is too summery and I'm not going to begin something that has no hope of being worn until next summer. Of course, by then it may be hopelessly outdated. HotPatterns I was hesitant to sew because of the tight sleeves many people on Patternreview commented on and I guess I'm just too lazy to tackle that right now.

That left Butterick's version. Originally I was going to use up a piece of winter white crepe I have in my stash, but thought maybe I could try it out of a color that wasn't on the pattern cover. Hey, now there's an idea! You'd think after all these years of sewing I could see beyond the illustrations!

Knowing that I wanted to wear it this fall (with boots of course) I dug in my stash of costume fabrics and pulled out this piece of crinkled velvet. The dress calls for 3-1/2 yards (45" wide) and I had 4 yards. I don't remember what it had been purchased for, other than something to do with Ren-Faire costumes.

The first thing I did was a full bust adjustment (FBA) using the pivot and slide method outlined in Nancy Zieman's book Fitting Finesse.

First, I traced the original pattern piece in the size I wanted onto drawing paper and cut it out. (I purchase the paper in large rolls from Sam's Club. It comes in handy for more than just tracing patterns!)

Next, I placed my traced pattern piece on top of the drawing paper and marked 1" at the side seam. This is how much I will be adding to the front for my FBA. I also marked the center front at the hemline.

The pattern piece is anchored to the paper with a pin at the end of the shoulder seam (the end where the armhole is). This is the pivot point. I then pivoted the pattern until the side of the pattern piece was at the line I drew earlier. (Where the pen is in the photo.)

I then drew the new armhole seam (red arrow on the left). You can also see where the original front hemline was (red arrow on the right.)

The pattern piece is then pivoted back to the center front hem marking. The new armhole was drawn in pen on the left side of the photo. The last step is to taper the side seam from the armhole to the hemline. Identical steps are used for the back piece also.

I added additional length to the front bodice as I knew the midriff band would not hit me in the right place otherwise.

Here is my final altered bodice front with the original size 12 pattern piece on top of it for comparison.

I decided to not do contrasting bands, nor will I add purchased trim to the neck band as illustrated on the pattern envelope. I am going to attempt some type of embellishment on the neck band. I'm not sure what that will be, but I'm sure something will inspire me.

I'm excited to think that I might actually have something completed before the season starts rather than when it is ending. Pin It

1 comment:

  1. Wow. I would never have thought to use that fabric but I think its going to look amazing -very autumn colours and quite dramatic texture!



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