Monday, October 30, 2017

The Floral Appliqued Bomber Jacket That Only Took A Year to Complete: McCall's 7100

What?!?  A year to sew a bomber jacket?  Okay, true confession.  It didn't really take a year to sew this bomber jacket. I only worked on it for seven months. But it did take me a year to blog about it!

Let me back up and start at the beginning.

When McCall's announced a bomber jacket sew-a-long on their blog in August 2016, I decided to join.  Right away I was behind schedule as I wanted to wait for a sale to purchase the pattern (McCall's 7100).

Next, I couldn't make up my mind what fabric to use to sew my bomber. I purchased a couple different pieces locally from SR Harris: a pretty brocade, a border print suiting, and a faux leather. But after bringing them home they just didn't say "make me into a bomber jacket".  (Your fabric speaks to you too, right?)

Then it hit me!  I remembered this gorgeous piece of fabric I had purchased from Emma One Sock in 2010.   It was described as "Milly faux leather applique border taffeta in a honey mustard with a scallop edge, sequins, and faux leather leaves and flowers".
Photo from Emma One Sock 

Like I said, gorgeous!  The problem is I can't wear this color as it's quite unflattering to my skin tone.  I realized that as soon as the fabric arrived. Rather than return it (because it is so gorgeous!) I tucked it away in my fabric stash until it let me know what it wanted to become.  Last year it let me know it wanted to became my McCall's 7100 bomber jacket.
I knew I would have to find  a knit for the bands that 1) coordinated with the fabric and 2) would flatter my skin tone.  Back to SR Harris where I was able to find a ponte knit that matched the leaves pretty darn close!

By now I had given up trying to do the sew-along as they were on week seven and preparing to do their reveals, while I still needed to alter and cut out my pattern pieces.

I choose to do an FBA, adding a small dart and more width all the way down (which I needed). If you look closely you'll see the outline of flowers on the pattern piece. I drew them on the pattern piece to make sure I wouldn't have an appliqued flower or leave right at the apex of my bust!
I carefully laid out the pattern pieces making sure to showcase as much of the appliques and embroidery as possible.  I was limited on fabric and only had scraps left by the time I was done!
 While construction of the jacket is pretty straightforward, every seam required a few extra steps because of the appliques.  At times I had to remove some of the appliques completely, stitch the seam, and re-attach the applique.
 At other times I could move the applique out of the way as I stitched the seams.
 I like how the leaf floats over the pocket of the jacket. 
After I had the jacket partially constructed I hit another road block.  I couldn't find a zipper that matched or coordinated!  If you follow me on Facebook (Sharon Sews) or on Instagram (@sharonmads) I posted a pic in search of opinions on one of three zipper options.
Honestly, I didn't really like any of the three, but I was so eager to finish the jacket that if there had been a clear winner (from all the opinions I solicited) I would have used that zipper!  Fortunately the vote was split and I kept searching for a zipper.

I finally ordered one from  Did you know they'll match a zipper for you? I didn't!  I placed an order for six different zippers, all close in color, hoping one would match my jacket.  When they received my order, they contacted me to ask if I was trying to match something specific.  Why, yes I was, I replied. And that's how I discovered they'd match a zipper.  This one is much nicer that what I was trying to make work! 
By now it was January and this jacket had been underway for five months.  I was getting so close to being done! Just needed to add a lining.

But first a vacation!  In February we went to Bonita Springs, FL and I switched gears from sewing this jacket to sewing some fun vacation clothes.  After enjoying a week break from the cold and snow, I returned home and began working on the jacket again.

I lined it using a polyester print purchased as a pre-cut from Fabric Mart Fabrics.  I love the bold, colorful print, which coordinates quite nicely!
At this point I returned to the McCall's Bomber Jacket sew-a-long blog post and followed the instructions for bagging the lining.  It looked messy, but it worked.

Here's the back of the jacket.

Whew, I was done!  It was now spring 2017 and I realized I had nothing I could wear with my new jacket!  So the jacket went into my closet and waited.  I would bring it with me on shopping trips to boutiques, department stores, and fabric stores, but I couldn't find a top that worked.

Then I remembered I still had some of the ponte knit I had used for the bands on the jacket and quickly stitched myself a sleeveless pullover dress. I'd prefer to wear this bomber with a tee and jeans, but at least I have something that coordinates.

As I mentioned the pattern is McCall's 7100.
After all the work I put into this jacket, I'm not sure I like how it looks on me.  Which is why you're only seeing it photographed on GiGi, my dress form.
Even so, it was a fun project and a nice break from all of the easy pieces I whipped up in between.

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  1. Wow that jacket is STUNNING! Hopefully you will learn to love it...though I'm not sure why it doesn't work with a tee and jeans and an amazing pair of boots! Cause that jacket is the business!

  2. Your jacket looks amazing and it is the perfect use of that unusual, fabulous fabric. You have got to wear this - maybe you are just not feeling the love for it because it took so long to finish, that happens to me sometimes. Just throw it on over some jeans and go!!

  3. Wow, that is a stunning jacket and so very couture! Well worth the time you spent on it. Wear it with well- deserved pride!

  4. I completely agree with AllisonC. You need to wear this beauty SOONER instead of later. It's a perfect Thanksgiving look. It really is so lovely and after you worked so hard on it, to let it sit in your closet is such a shame. Enjoy the fruits of your labor dear girl!!!! Love, Jude

  5. I completely agree with AllisonC. You need to wear this beauty SOONER instead of later. It's a perfect Thanksgiving look. It really is so lovely and after you worked so hard on it, to let it sit in your closet is such a shame. Enjoy the fruits of your labor dear girl!!!! Love, Jude

  6. So very lovely. Awesome job even it it took a year.



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