Monday, May 09, 2016

Vogue 9109 A "CustomFit" Easy-to-Sew Pullover Top

Vogue 9109 is a basic, pullover top pattern designed for woven fabrics. The pattern is one of Vogue's "Custom Fit" designs that offers separate pattern pieces for A,B,C, and D cups. 
 Because I've done so many FBA pattern alterations over the years, I don't typically purchase the "Custom Fit" patterns with the intent of using the specific cup pattern piece.  However, my curiosity got the best of me and this time I decided to stitch the top using the "D" cup piece. 
That is one big dart!  Since I wanted to test the fit - and the D cup dart - I went ahead and stitched this up using a polyester print that I'd picked up for just this purpose. I made no alterations to the pattern, with the exception of widening the shoulder in case the top ended up wearable.

It was almost impossible to eliminate a dimple at the end of the dart. I manipulated the dart over a pressing ham and lightly steamed it with my iron until it was wearable. However, I wouldn't be comfortable wearing this on its own without a jacket or sweater.  Yea, I'm that unhappy with the dart. My fabric choice may have contributed to that, but I think the dart is just too large.

I used purchased bias tape for neck and armhole bindings, and finished the top of the neckline with a hook and eye per the pattern instructions.


I found the top to be fitted through the bust, almost too tight in fact, even when I used the larger cup pattern piece.  When I sew this again I will start with the standard "B" cup pattern piece and do my own full bust adjustment and see if I can get a better looking dart and a better fit.

Other than that, it's a nice basic shape that would work well on its own for warm weather or as a layering piece when worn in the office.


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6 comments:

  1. I've always been curious about the multi-cup-size patterns (I think I've grown to a C cup myseff); that dart looks really huge! thanks for the review

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    1. I've been curious also, but I think I'll continue to do my own FBA as I think I can get a better fit. However, if I didn't know how to do that adjustment, this would be a great start!

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  2. That really is a BIG dart - no wonder it didn't want to settle down properly. I've been practicing doing FBAs and so this post was very enlightening, thank you!

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  3. Do you think the angle may be off on that dart? It fights the grain of the fabric causing the "dimple" to form. You are so right about doing your own full bust adjustment because no one's "girls" sit at same spot!

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  4. Lovely top Sharon! That is a large dart. Sometimes I cut the wide dart and press it open and that helps some with the dimple. Like you I have made so many FBA's that custom fit is nice sometimes but I can get a better fit with my personal adjustment.

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  5. I just tried this pattern in the D cup and now have what I call "nipple gate " for this very reason. I was apprehensive when I saw how large that dart is and I thought it was just me or my fabric (poly charmeuse). Such a bummer.

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