Friday, May 06, 2016

Burda 04-2016 117 Trousers

I was intrigued by the 117 trousers in the April 2016 BurdaStyle magazine. Modeled in the magazine twice, they appeared to sit just below the waist with a slightly loose fit through the hip ending just above the ankle.

About a week before Hancock Fabrics announced all of their stores would close, I had purchased a floral stretch woven in the "Spot the Bolt" section (oh how I'm going to miss that!) intending to make a pair of skinny jeans.  Instead I used it to muslin these trousers. Am I glad I did as there's some fit issues that I'll take care of with the next pair.  
I traced my size based on my current measurements and, as you can see from above, these are quite roomy through the waist, hip and leg area.  Because they ride down, there is excess fabric at the center front crotch area.  The magazine describes these as narrowly cut trousers and on the model they appear to taper near the ankle.  I found they were straight versus tapered. Of course if I would have looked closer at the technical drawing I would have caught that.  

See that note on these pants?  Note: These trousers are cut slightly wider at the waistband, so that they slip down during wear. If you prefer this not to happen, try on the trousers and adjust them to fit more snugly.  

I did try these on during construction and ended up stitching a 1-1/2" seam at the center back, tapering to 5/8" at the center back crotch.  I thought that would work, but just walking for five minutes to get photographs caused the pants to slip down. Unless I plan on always having my hands in my pockets to keep these up, I'll need to add belt loops or just use these to determine fit adjustments for my next pair.
I didn't measure the finished length and for these to hit my ankle I needed to roll up the hem band. 
The trousers have a few fun details. The hem band, which I have rolled up in these photos, could be fun in a contrasting fabric.  

I eliminated the back welt pocket as these were sewn to test the fit.  The hip yoke pockets extend inside to the center front and have a decorative flap, which I ended up tacking in place at the center point of the flap.
As far as construction goes, well, Burda's instructions are brief.  Fortunately I've sewn many pants over the years so I was familiar with the order of construction. Instead of using a hammer-on hook and bar fastener as instructed, I sewed on a set I already had in my supplies.  I haven't sewn a fly front zipper in more than a year so I referenced instructions in one of my sewing books.  Perfect? Nah, but I'm okay with that.

I sewed the trousers based on how great they look on the model in the magazine. 
This is what they look like on a shorter, older, curvier figure.
Now that I know where to make fit adjustments I'll sew myself another pair!

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  1. Glad you know your needed adjustments. I like this style pant and I am sure you get the next pair perfect.

  2. I liked this pants pattern too, but when I read the note at the top of the instructions, I thought "okay, new and different fitting issue to work out" and moved on. Yours look great, in the fun floral print. Now that you've worked the fit issues out in this pair, the second pair will be sewn up quickly.



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