Going dotty - Vogue 1258 Vena Cava Knit Dress

Last year, when Vogue released this Vena Cava design (Vogue 1258) , I knew I wanted to sew the dress.  However, weather where I live turns cool early into the fall months so I put the pattern aside with plans to sew it for the 2012 summer season.

A few weeks ago I realized I better get started on sewing this season's summer clothing or I risk having the warm days slip away without anything new to wear.  Oh, the shame! (smile)

I pulled out a fun ITY black knit with hot pink polka dots (purchased from Anne at Needle Nook Fabrics when I took her bra-making class) and began.

Knowing the knit would be somewhat forgiving in it's fit, I choose to not try and alter the puzzling pattern pieces.  Except for raising  the neckline by 1-1/2". 

I cut a 12 at the shoulder/neckline, tapering to a 14/16 at the waist/hip, which worked fine in the bust area due to the stretch of the knit.  The hip should have been smaller as it was designed for a tight fit, but remember, I don't like tight fitting clothing. So the fit of the dress isn't exactly as designed, but it works for my comfort level. 

The sleeve flaps are lower on my shoulder than shown on the model, due to my narrow, sloping shoulders. I also eliminated the rows of topstitching the flaps as it would have been hidden by the polka dot print.

As others have noted, the front ties are really long.  I did not lengthen or shorten the ties, or the dress, and you can see they hang below the hem.

Oh! And I LOVE the pockets hidden in the front drapes. 

From a distance it appears the polka dots are semi-matched at the seams.  However I only had two yards of this fabric, which was the exact yardage required, so I was unable to match the dots.

One thing I noticed is that the back of the dress is ever so slightly higher than the front.  I'll have to watch for that in the future if I decide to sew another one. 

 All in all, this was a fun dress to sew and extremely comfortable to wear. 

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The McCall's 6556 Fashion Star swimsuit cover up

We just returned home from a 10-day motorcycle trip. Actually, that's not quite accurate.  Yes we were vacationing for 10 days, but my hubby rode the motorcycle to our destination while I followed behind in the car.  I joined him on the bike to explore the city once we were settled into our hotel room.

Knowing we would have access to a pool and hot tub at our hotel,  before we left I pulled out McCall's 6556, a Fashion Star dress pattern, thinking it would be perfect as a swimsuit cover up. An hour and 2-1/2 yards of fabric later, I had myself a new cover up.

Believe me, it was much more fun to walk the hotel hallways wearing this rather than wrapped in a towel. 

Front of McCall's 6556 "dress"

Back of McCall's 6556 "dress"

Side drape of McCall's 6556 "dress"

The fabric is a lightweight knit from Hancock Fabrics,  The gray stripes alternate with sheer "lace" stripes.  I cut a 12 at the shoulder/neckline and tapered out to a 14 for the balance of the garment. 

When this pattern was released I was immediately drawn to the asymmetrical style, however didn't think I'd have an opportunity to wear it. After all, I live in a suburb where most folks don shorts and sloppy  tees when running errands and I work in an environment that is both conservative and casual. Now that I've sewn it I've changed my mind.  I'm going to make myself one that I can pair with leggings for one of my date nights with my hubby. 

I'm off to shop my closet for the right piece of fabric....
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This season's maxi dress - McCall's 6559 with an FBA

Trying to keep cool in 101 degree F

My first version of the fabulous McCall's 6559 maxi dress was sewn in a hurry. You see, I was heading out of town and as the date rapidly approached I realized the temperatures were going to be quite warm where I was headed.  Hot actually - with temps predicted in the upper 90s degree F range.

But the main reason I whipped it up was so I'd have something new to wear when I met the staff of Sew News and Sew iT All magazines.  Of course,  you already knew how excited I was to meet them if you read my previous post.

This knit maxi dress is so simple to sew - just a front and back sewn together at the side and shoulder seams, with the neck, arm and bottom edges turned under and stitched in place.  I made a few minor changes and was still able to complete the dress in two hours.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that I found the pattern to run large. I've mentioned it before, but I do not like tight fitting clothes.  So I typically cut my knit dresses a size larger in the waist and hip area, which is what I did with this dress. I also raised the neckline by an inch.

I basted everything together and ended up taking the shoulder seams up by 3/4" and the side seams by an inch at the hip and at least two inches at the waist.

Altering the pattern for an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment)
Thinking the dress would be close fitting, I choose to alter the pattern to add a small FBA so the front of the dress wouldn't pull across my bustline.

First, I cut the dress top and bottom apart along the lengthen and shorten line. I placed the pattern piece over tissue paper and pinned it in place. Next, I drew three lines on the pattern intersecting at the bust apex and cut the pattern along the lines.

I spread the pattern the desired amount, about inch, and taped everything in place. 

The bottom and top portions were matched up along the lengthen and shorten lines and taped in place.

As you can see, the side seam no longer matched.

So I simply used a curved ruler and drew a new side seam.

Rather than sew the dart I eased the dart into the side seam.

Finish the neck and armhole edges with clear elastic 
Stretch the clear elastic a few times. Measure and cut the clear elastic exactly the same length as the neckline and armhole edges. Serge (or stitch) the clear elastic to the wrong side placing the elastic along the raw edge.

Fold the fabric over to the wrong side and stitch in place.  

The clear elastic wasn't needed to help keep the neck edge in place, it just adds a bit of stability (like a strip of lightweight interfacing) and gives a nice finished look to the edge.


Hem the dress using Steam-A-Seam
This is my favorite method for hemming my knit garments.  I serge finished the hem edge on this dress before adding the Steam-A-Seam, but sometimes I leave it as is.

Iron Lite Steam-A-Seam was ironed onto the wrong side of the hem close to the raw edge.

Peel away the paper backing exposing the fusible tape.

Fold the hem in place and finger press. Press to set the fusible tape in place.

Stitch in place.

I highly recommend this pattern.  I wore it multiple times while out of town and received compliments each and every time. 

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A visit to Sew News and Sew iT All magazine offices

Can you tell by my big grin how excited I am to be in the lobby of the office where the magic of Sew News and Sew iT All magazines happens?  You can find my article on how to sew a tiered maxi skirt in the current issue of Sew News. Three of my projects are in the latest issue of Sew iT All (on newsstands as of yesterday),

With the lovely Ellen March, Editor-in-Chief, who is also the host of the Sew iT All television program. She is even more delightful in person than I had imagined her to be. She is absolutely adorable. She let me peek into the Sew It All studio but I forgot to take a photo for you. I will tell you it was much smaller than I envisioned it to be.

From Left: Beth Bradley, Ellen March, Sharon Madsen, Colleen Exline, Leah Rybak, Nicki LaFoille

I was able to meet the entire staff. I do wish there would have been more time as each and every one of them is someone I'd love to get to know better.  We talked about weather, the Ft Collins Fire, sites to see, what their roles are at the magazine, and two of my personal favorite subjects - dogs and shoes.

Maybe someday I'll have the chance to visit them again. For now, it will be a wonderful memory.

Oh, by the way, my knit maxi dress is McCall's 6559.    You didn't think I'd visit the offices of a sewing magazine and not wear something I'd sewn did you?

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Vogue 8810 - slow and steady progress

Vogue 8810 -almost done

Sophia, my little sewing buddy

Vogue 8810 - from Sophia's point of view

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Prepping Vogue 8810...the FBA

Like many of you I took advantage of recent Vogue pattern sales.  Among my purchases was this versatile shirt dress pattern, Vogue 8810.

Sitting in my fabric closet was a rayon challis that screamed "Me!  I'd be perfect for that summer dress! After all,  I have yellow lemons, and the word "Paris" printed all over."

Well, knowing that I could use yellow buttons I had purchased decades ago pushed me over the edge. Colorful rayon challis with lemons and Paris it shall be!


According to the pattern description - and the measurements printed on the pattern pieces - the bodice is loose-fitting. I wanted to keep as close to the intended design of the bodice as possible so I choose to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) even though I may have been able to get by without one.

With no darts on the pattern piece this is how I did my FBA.

Mark the bust apex.
Draw a line from the apex to the side seam approximately where a dart would be.
Draw a line from the apex to the armhole.
Draw a line from the apex to the hemline.
Cut through all the lines.
Place a pin at the apex, securing the pattern piece to the cutting board. 
Spread open the amount needed - I added about 1/2"

Close the side dart and pin in place.
Notice the bottom spreads open. 

Add length to the center front so the bottom edges match up.

Final step - tape tissue paper in the openings.

Because this design has a gathered waistline I choose to move the side dart I created to the waist where there will  additional fullness in the front.

Fingers crossed this will work I like I think it will!

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Free eBook features DIY women's dresses - from All Free Sewing

The latest eBook from the editors of allfreesewing.com, 11 Sewing Patterns for Women's Dresses & Other Pretty Projects, features two of my sewing tutorials.  Perhaps you recognize one on the cover....yep, it's my romantic strapless ruffled maxi dress.     You can find it on page 16 of the eBook.  The eBook is free and you can download a copy of the book here.

This maxi dress was a lot of fun to create. I'm happy that so many of you have mentioned that you really like it and have sewn it or sewing plans are in the works.  I do enjoy seeing your project photos, so please consider sending me photos or links so I can share with everyone.

By the way a variation of this dress will be available in Sew It All V. 4 magazine, scheduled to hit news stands around June 19.    It's super cute - so be sure to keep your eyes open for the magazine.

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