Tuesday, June 05, 2012

Prepping Vogue 8810...the FBA

Like many of you I took advantage of recent Vogue pattern sales.  Among my purchases was this versatile shirt dress pattern, Vogue 8810.

Sitting in my fabric closet was a rayon challis that screamed "Me!  I'd be perfect for that summer dress! After all,  I have yellow lemons, and the word "Paris" printed all over."

Well, knowing that I could use yellow buttons I had purchased decades ago pushed me over the edge. Colorful rayon challis with lemons and Paris it shall be!

According to the pattern description - and the measurements printed on the pattern pieces - the bodice is loose-fitting. I wanted to keep as close to the intended design of the bodice as possible so I choose to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) even though I may have been able to get by without one.

With no darts on the pattern piece this is how I did my FBA.

Mark the bust apex.
Draw a line from the apex to the side seam approximately where a dart would be.
Draw a line from the apex to the armhole.
Draw a line from the apex to the hemline.
Cut through all the lines.
Place a pin at the apex, securing the pattern piece to the cutting board. 
Spread open the amount needed - I added about 1/2"

Close the side dart and pin in place.
Notice the bottom spreads open. 

Add length to the center front so the bottom edges match up.

Final step - tape tissue paper in the openings.

Because this design has a gathered waistline I choose to move the side dart I created to the waist where there will  additional fullness in the front.

Fingers crossed this will work I like I think it will!

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  1. Love your new header and it's great to see you sewing again!

    1. Oh Carolyn, it feels sooo good to be sewing again!

  2. That fabric looks so intriguing. Cant wait to see the finished dress.

    1. Thanks! I do hope I choose the right pattern for this fabric.

  3. That's a great pattern thanks for pointing it out. I have never noticed it before. I think your fabric will look gorgeous made up.

  4. Sharin, would you be at all concerned that your adjustment would create too mant gathers at the waist?

    1. Great question! I'm not 100% positive I did the FBA the correct way, however I did take into consideration having excess gathers at the waist when I choose to rotate the dart to the waist. I *think* it will work because I do not have a small waist.

  5. Love the new header photo. Can't wait to see how this turns out - it's a lovely dress - how did I miss it? g

    1. Hey G! I think that pattern wasn't noticed because they were so many other wonderful offerings from Vogue this last time.

  6. Thank you for sharing the process .



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