Sew a romantic strapless ruffled maxi dress: a tutorial

As promised yesterday, here's a sewing tutorial so you can sew your own Summer Dreams strapless ruffled maxi dress.

It's very similar to the strapless maxi dress tutorial I shared with you a few months ago.  This time you'll customize it to fit your measurements.

Note: If you have the One Yard Wonders Book you can create this dress starting with my Strapless Belted Tunic design. 

Supplies
Gauze or other lightweight fabric
1/4" elastic
Single fold bias tape
Thread 

The finished length of the dress is approximately 51" measured along the side seam.  Lengthen or shorten as needed. 

Make your dress pattern
Measurement A
Measure your bust around the fullest part.
Add 12" (this is the ease) and divide by two.
Example: Full bust = 36" + 12"  = 48" / 2 = 24"

Measurement B
Measure your hip around the fullest part.
Add 12" (this is the ease) and divide by two.
Example: Full hip = 38" + 12" = 50" / 2 = 25"

Measurement C
Add 1" to measurement B
Example: Measurement B = 25" + 1" = 26"

• On a large sheet of paper draw a vertical line 37" long down the center of your paper. 
• Measure 15" down from the top of the vertical line and make a mark.
• Starting at the top of the line draw a horizontal line equal to measurement A centered on the vertical line.
• Starting at the 15" mark draw a horizontal line equal to measurement B centered on the vertical line.
• Starting at the bottom of the line draw a horizontal line equal to measurement C centered on the vertical line.
• Connect the top line to the bottom line along both sides.
• This is the front and back of the maxi dress.
• If your full busted, on the front piece measure 1" to the top of the vertical line. Make a mark. Use a French curve to draw a gently curved line from the each side seam to the mark at the center front.

Cut the dress
Cut 1 dress front
Cut 1 dress back
Calculate and cut the upper ruffle length
Multiply measurement A by 1.5. This is the ruffle length Measurement D.
The ruffle width is 10"

Cut 1 front bodice ruffle measurement D x 10"
Cut 1 back bodice ruffle measurement D x 10
Example. Measurement A = 24" x 1.5 = 36" so the ruffles to be cut are 36" x 10"
Calculate and cut the lower ruffle length
Multiply measurement C by 3. This is the ruffle length Measurement E.
The ruffle width is 17"
Cut enough lower ruffle pieces to equal measurement E x 17"
You'll need to piece the ruffle to get the desired length
Example. Measurement C = 26" x 3 = 78"

You now have the upper ruffle, the dress, and the lower ruffle.

Sew the dress
Pin the front and back dress right sides together.

Stitch side seams.

From the top of the dress measure down 10" on the wrong side and make a mark.

Draw a line around the entire dress.

Be sure to use a removable fabric pen or chalk.

This is the line for the waistline casing. Eliminate this step if you do not want an elasticized waist.

Pin the single-fold bias tape on the inside of the dress aligning the bottom edge of tape on the marked line.

Stitch in place close to each edge of the bias tape.

 
Pin the front and back upper bodice ruffles right sides together.

Stitch side seams.

Turn bottom edge 1/4" to the wrong side; press. Turn under 1/4" again to the wrong side; press. Stitch in place.

Gather the upper edge of the ruffle. To gather use a long stitch length and stitch along the upper edge 1/2" from the edge leaving thread tails at each end. Stitch a second row of stitches 1/4" away from the edge.

With right sides up (wrong side of ruffle to right side of bodice), pin ruffle to upper edge of bodice matching side seams. 

Adjust gathers to fit.

Stitch ruffle in place. 
 

Finish raw edge of seam with bias binding. 

To create the casing turn under 3/4" on the upper edge of the bodice; press. 

Stitch casing to the bodice 1/2" from the top fold being sure to keep the ruffle free. Leave a 1" opening to insert the elastic.

Cut a piece of 1/4" elastic a comfortable upper chest measurement plus 1/2".

Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert in the casing.

Pull elastic thru the casing. Lap the elastic ends by 1/2" and stitch together securely.

Pin the lower ruffles right sides together.  Stitch seams.

Turn bottom edge 1/4" to the wrong side; press. Turn under 1/4" again to the wrong side; press. Stitch in place.

Gather the upper edge of the ruffle.

Pin ruffle to lower edge of dress right sides together matching side seams.

Adjust gathers to fit. Stitch. 

Cut a piece of elastic a comfortable waist measurement plus 1/2".


Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and insert in the casing.


Pull elastic thru the casing. Lap the elastic ends by 1/2" and stitch together securely.

Done!

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Summer Dreams - a strapless ruffled maxi dress

The Summer Dreams white gauze maxi dress.

A strapless beauty with a wide romantic ruffle along the bodice.

Complete with a deep hemline ruffle that flows gently around your legs as you walk.

Tutorial coming...stay tuned.

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Hmmm, now that was a dumb idea

Ever had one of those ah-ha moments? You know, when you just figured out the best solution ever to your little nagging problem?

One of those flashes of brilliance hit me just the other day.

I was busy sewing my circle skirt, (after those silly sewing four-legged sewing companions got bored and left the room long enough for me to actually cut out the skirt!  and from your comments I see I'm not the only one with "helpful" sewing buddies).

Anyway, as I was saying. I was busy sewing my circle skirt and realized the fabric was a bit sheerer than I had anticipated. 

Having a bit of a phobia about wearing see-through clothing (remind me to share one that embarrassing moment in fashion with you someday. ) I realized I'd have to wear a slip with this skirt.

Okay, so raise your hand if you want to wear a slip under a summer skirt.  Nope, me neither.

"Ah-ha!" I thought.  "I can just add a cotton lining.  Just a partial lining so it doesn't get too heavy."

Dumb idea: I cut the lining using the pattern for the shorter version of the skirt and basted it to the waistline before adding the waistband.  It qualifies as a dumb idea because the skirt no longer fell softly from the waistline.

I realized my mistake when I tried the skirt on. There was too much additional bulk due to the addition of a second circle skirt underneath the first one.  I have enough hip-fluff already thank-you- very-much.  The lining didn't need to be that full.

I'll just remove the lining completely and take my chances on the sheerness in the sunshine.

At least I had fun taking photos when I discovered my camera can shoot multiple photos in  seconds when using the self timer.

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Circle (skirt) Cutting Challenges

Decided I wanted an end of summer maxi skirt.

Not just a maxi skirt, but a circle maxi skirt.


As I was getting ready to do all those math calculations (see, aren't you glad you paid attention in match class when you really wanted to be creating and oil painting in art class?  Oh, wait, maybe that was just me) I said to myself "Why bother with all those calculations when Simplicity 2233 has done all the work for me?"

Even though the Suede patterns kinda bug me.  Oh, not the designs. I do find them cute.  Just the third person "Suede says" stuff...

But back to the circle skirt.

Do you know how challenging cutting out a maxi circle skirt can be?

First of all you need lots and lots of Fabric.  For this pattern, almost 6 yards of 45" wide fabric or 5 yards of 60" wide fabric.

I had just over four yards. But shoot. I had my heart set on using this fabric for this skirt so I would just have to make it work.

In the end I simply shortened the skirt figuring I can always had a contrast fabric band to the bottom to get the right length.

Secondly, you need a lot of space to lay that fabric flat.  I ended up using the sewing room floor as the surface of my cutting table isn't large enough.

Lastly, if you have curious creatures in the house good luck actually pinning and cutting those pattern pieces.

Eventually they both lost interest and the skirt was successfully cut out.

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Do you pin?

On Pinterest that is.

I wasn't sure what to think of it when I first signed up. But I've been exploring it a bit and discovered it's a great online inspiration board.  An easy way to keep track of a lot of things I may want to refer back to.  And it sure is a lot easier than bookmarking all those pages.

For example. While browsing Nordstrom's site, I came across this Alice + Olivia striped wool cashmere sweater. 

Looks a lot like Butterick 5563 doesn't it?  

Just need to find myself a luxurious piece of striped fabric and the look could be recreated for a lot less than $295.  Using Pinterest I can "bookmark" the image and add the reference to the pattern.

It's great for other DIY ideas also, like this Anthropologie cape. Now if I can only find the right sweaters to refashion for a fall cape.

 

Sometimes I just pin stuff that makes me smile, like cupcakes, or color combinations or even books I may want to purchase.

So I ask again, do you pin?

Leave me a comment so I can follow your pins. 



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I blinked and two weeks went by ...

Is your summer flying by as quickly as mine 


I've been so crazy busy I've barely stepped into my sewing studio.

Well, except for one little project I finished for a Sew News article that will appear spring 2012.  I'm really excited about it and wish I could share it with you NOW.  But this little sneak peek will have to do. Three samples were sewn before I settled on these fabrics. I'm really loving the colors.  The fabric is from the Paradise collection from Art Gallery Fabrics. 

I've been so busy I haven't been able to get my little Maltese, Sophia, to the groomer. She's beginning to resemble a mini English Sheepdog.

And both dogs watch very closely for any clue telling them this is the night they'll get a good long walk.

There was a wee bit of excitement in my life the other day.  During one of my County Fair shifts I went into our tiny little storage area to grab some literature and found this little surprise.  I thought it was a piece of trash. Just as my hand was reaching out to remove it my brain screamed "Eeeew! That's not trash, that's a bat!" 

And finally, after the whirlwind of the past two weeks I was able to spend a relaxing day with hubby enjoying the beautiful weather and scenery while out cruising on the Goldwing.

So how about you. Have you been able to find time to sew?

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Eight silly monkeys and a pinafore dress - Simplicity 2461

Some time ago I stumbled across a copy of the book "Eight Silly Monkeys Jumping on the Bed" - complete with finger puppets.   With a little one's first birthday on the horizon I purchased it knowing she  loves books (how could she not coming from a long-line of booklovers?).  The monkey theme was perfect as her grandmother and I have a long running birthday tradition that involves cards with monkeys.  (You had to be there from the start to understand why we get hysterical over monkey themed birthday cards - but that's one of the great things about sisters, right? Those little inside jokes.)

Anyway, with the monkey book purchased when I found this fabric at SR Harris (awww, look at that little monkey face) I knew I had to sew her a dress to go along with the book. 

Besides, her great-grandpa is a clown.  (Yes, he really is...) And these aren't just monkeys.  They're circus monkeys!

Did you notice the zipper at the back of the dress?  I can't even remember the last time I didn't sew in an invisible zipper.  I wasn't even sure I'd remember how to do a "normal" one.  Whew...just like riding a bike.

The dress is Simplicity 2461.  I sewed a long sleeved version in the hopes it would be large enough for her to wear this fall as the weather begins to cool.  

The pattern includes bloomers.  Well, not exactly.  They are actually just the shorts pattern with a casing and elastic added at the bottom.  If I sew this again I'd cut and slash the pattern to make these fuller - more like a true bloomer.

Actually I want to note that I didn't find much fullness in the body of the dress or the sleeves.  The pattern envelope illustrations led me to believe the dress would be fuller than it is.  It's fine, but next time I'll slash and spread the skirt and sleeve pieces to get the look I was going after.

The dress alone is okay - maybe a teeny bit blah - even with all those cute little monkeys.  It was supposed to have a bright pink polka dot double hem ruffle.  Oops! Forgot to pre-wash that fabric. Oh well, pink rick-rack will do. She's one.  She won't care. 

I think the contrasting pinafore is what really perks the dress up.  The pinafore fabric is Michael Miller Playdate Pixie Sticks.

The pinafore closes in the back with two little buttons and bias button loops.

It can be worn alone as a sundress with the little bloomers.  Sweet.

I'd forgotten how much fun it was to sew for toddlers. 

And how much fun it was to rhyme:


Eight silly monkeys jumping on a bed
One fell off and bumped its head
Mama called the doctor and the doctor said 
"No more monkeys jumping on the bed"

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