Month End Check-in: January

January is done. Well, in a few hours anyway. Close enough for me. Can't say I'm too sad to see it end as I hope the bitter cold will go away when it does.

So with the month ending I thought a little month-end check-in would be in order. After all, I began the month with some pretty lofty ambitions.

Sigh. True confessions time.


Progress on the 2011 Vintage sew along? Zero. Yep, no further along than when I posted about the dress last time.  You see that beautiful heathered purple wool knit is a bit on the transparent side so I knew it would need lined or underlined. The pattern calls for underlining, so I ordered some black tricot knit lining online hoping to use it as an underlining. Unfortunately the lining wasn't as opaque as I had envisioned.  Combining it with the wool knit isn't enough to allow the dress to be worn without a slip. So I put this project on the back burner until I can come up with a solution as to what to use.

Progress on the One Jacket A Month sew along?

Ummm. Well, you see it's like this.   I began sewing Vogue 8677 but ran into some fitting issues. The sleeves were all goofy. I tried the jacket on as soon as I sewed the sleeves on and they hung off grain. Now I did a small forward shoulder adjustment which probably contributed to some of the problem, but I really don't think it should have been off so much.  But I'll admit I forgot to adjust the sleeve properly. I began trying to fix it, but realized my heart really wasn't into it and dumped the whole thing.  I'm moving onto a jacket project that I'll love and come back to this one at a later date. Guess that means I should try and complete two next month.

So how did all of you fare with your January sewing projects?
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Well done!

Good job my sewing friends.  I really appreciate your comments and opinions on the fabric choices I had posted.  I knew I could count on you to share your thoughts :-)  Thank you.

I'm going to try option A - the one with the higher contrast. I won't be able to share any photos for awhile but trust me, if it turns out like I'm envisioning it's gonna be cute.

The photo I can share with you is the latest haul from Joann's three-day Vogue pattern sale. (If you're in the states they're on sale for $3.99 each today thru Saturday.)

Notice that every single one of these patterns are for dresses? Notice that these dresses are missing long sleeves? With the temps climbing into the twenties this week I have a serious case of spring-will-be-here-in-only-two-more-months fever.  I know some of you can relate. So while the snow piles up outside I'll be dreaming and sewing my way to a new wardrobe of warm weather dresses.

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Your opinions please

Hey everyone - can I get your opinions on something?

I working on a project and the main fabric is a deep plum wool knit.  I'm trying to decide what accent color I like best with the plum color. 

To be honest, I actually like all three - for three different reasons - which is why I need some opinions.

I tried getting an opinion out of my hubby but he pulled the ole "you know I'm not that good at coordinating colors" excuse.

I then tried the ole "you know I haven't really decided on any of them so I'm not asking you to pick the one I like best" comment, but no go.  That man's pretty smart :-)  Except this time I really didn't have a favorite and really did want his opinion.

So which of these three options for an accent pops out at you?  The color is a bit off due to my photography, but I think you can get a good idea.

Option A is multi-colored with hints of the exact shade of plum
Option B is a muted plum tone
Option C is a brighter berry plum tone

Thanks for your help!

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Sometimes big and comfy is just big and sloppy

Back in 2008 (gosh that seems like a long time ago, doesn't it?) I received an issue of Burda World of Fashion that included this oversized top.  Pretty cute, right?  That collar and sleeves - adorable! And the length is perfect - not too long, but not to short - right at the hipline.

I liked it enough that I immediately traced the pattern - and I really, really, really dislike tracing patterns.  Guess I didn't like it that much because I never got around to actually sewing it until this past November.   Amazing how quickly time goes by....

Anyway.  The Burda magazine instructions weren't much help - no surprise - so I sewed it together using my best judgement.  

But here's where I probably should have checked the instructions a bit closer.  See those welt pockets on the top?  So I sewed them onto my knit top - and dang, they looked really good! As I held the front piece up to admire my work I noticed something a bit odd.  Turns out those beautiful welt pockets would only be functional if I crossed my arms to tuck my hands inside. 

That's right dear readers. I managed to sew them on backwards.  Not once, but twice.  Ha! I'm laughing at myself right now as I write this.  The third times a charm and I'm now able to use the pockets as they were intended. Of course they no longer look so good after getting ripped out and restitched two times...

Except for those darn welt pockets the rest of the top actually went together pretty quickly. 

The collar is just as I envisioned it would be. 

And the sleeves end with a delightful detail.

But oh my, oh my, oh my.  Is this baby big!  Look at how long she is when GiGi models her.

This is what is looks like when big and comfy is just big and sloppy.  I even tried the belt as shown in the magazine. But c'mon. Am I really going to wear a belt around my hips to keep this top in place? Nah, not this lady.

All's not lost. I'll simply chop off that bottom band, take the side seams in and wear it over a turtleneck top.

But that will have to wait just a little bit longer. Because it's gotten even colder than when I wrote this post!   At least it went above zero today. And spring isn't really that far away is it?

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Nothin. I got nothin...

Nothing to look at here folks.

No completed sewing projects.

No progress on my vintage dress for the sew-along.

No progress on my jacket (for the one jacket a month sew-along. (I probably never even mentioned I was doing that one did I?)

Why?  Mainly because it's so cold lately that I find myself bundled up on the couch not wanting to move as that would mean cold air would seep beneath the faux fur throw I'm buried beneath.

It's so cold that I just quite convince myself to venture into that sewing room.  Especially at night when there's not even a hint of sunshine to tease me into thinking there's some warmth outside.

When I do bravely venture into the room I'm dressed for the adventure.  Do you even know how hard it is to sew when you're wearing a long sleeve tee and a down filled vest topped with a button front sweater over the whole thing? You think I'm kidding don't you? Ha! I don't know about you but I much prefer to sew in a yoga pants, a tank top and bare feet.

Alright, enough whining. After all, the days are beginning to get longer. That means warm temps and sunshine will be here soon. Oh, just another three or four months...

And even though it is colder than usual in that room, I did get a little sewing done this past week.

Just not the fun, s*xy stuff that one likes to show off on their sewing blog.

I experimented with stitches and decorative threads on my serger. I sketched out some ideas that popped into my head. I began work on an Anthropologie inspired top. And shortened and hemmed pants, replaced buttons and patched jeans.

The fun, s*xy stuff is next on the list.

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Vintage Sewalong of 2011 - the pattern

Did I tell you I joined the Vintage Sewalong of 2011?  I've been so busy lately that I think all I did was post the button on the side of blog. 

I joined right after it was announced but then got stuck trying to decide what pattern to sew.  You see there are good and bad things about collecting sewing patterns.

The good? lots of lovely choices. The bad? lots of lovely choices.

I finally narrowed it down to two completely different patterns - a 1955 vintage vogue dress and a 1970s vogue designer dress.

Vogue 874, a Couturier Design - One Piece Dress, Cummerbund and Coat, c. 1955. It's an unprinted pattern (which I have yet to try) and a size too small.  While the pattern has been used the label was still inside the envelope. Bonus!

Vogue 2263, circa 1970s, Vogue Americana design by Donald Brooks, One Piece Dress with release tucks at the standing neckline, waistline and sleeves.

While the 1955 design would clearly have been more challenging, the reality is (Kelly, that phrase was put there just for you .) the 70s dress is something I could actually wear. And at this point in time I think I want to spend my precious little spare time sewing something I can do more than drool over.

So the Donald Brooks dress wins.  I'm using a wool knit from Fabric Mart.  The heathered purple knit is semi-sheer and since the pattern calls for an underlining Iordered black tricot. I have no idea if that will actually work or not.  I guess I'll find out soon enough won't I?  Of course, I'm open to suggestions.


And those of you who sewed in the 70s can stop chuckling about a 70s pattern qualifying as "vintage".  It's all a matter of perspective isn't it?

Oh all right. I'll admit the real reason. I'm not confident in my ability to resize that 1955 pattern...

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Mini houndstooth skirt - Butterick 5566

Butterick 5566 Skirt

Isn't she lovely? I spent a few hours sewing her last week. Butterick 5566 - I heart her. 

(image from Butterick.com)

I have plans to sew all of the views, but for my first one I choose to sew view A. The one with cool dart detail. 

And did you notice that I even picked the same fabric as the cover illustration? Sometimes I amaze myself with my ability to think outside the box.

Here's a closer look at those darts. There are three that radiate out from the waist in  different lengths - short, medium and long. 

Also, that front piece is an overlay.  Here I'm demonstrating how NOT to sew the overlay. I had sewed the darts on the inside of the overlay and didn't realize it until I was ready to add the overlay to the skirt front. Oops! Back to the machine to rip out those gorgeous darts and resew them correctly.

The bottom of the overlay is finished with a mitered corner.  The instructions for the mitered corners are not included with the pattern - here's how I do mine.

One change I made was to add a lining. Because the skirt had a front overlay it easy to add a lining. I simply cut my lining pieces (a few inches shorter) using the front and back skirt pattern. After sewing the lining darts and side seams I matched the upper edges of the skirt and lining (with wrong sides together) basted along the waistline. Then I sewed the facing per the instructions.  Next time I might do a petersham ribbon facing as I like the thought of a little less bulk at the waistline. 

The other change I made was to use an invisible zipper with a fabric tab on the inside.

I'm loving the skirt. It's basic and unique all at once.

True confession time. After eight hours hours of sitting, standing and walking the skirt  is looking a bit rumpled.  Not too noticeable from a distance.

But - look at what's happening at the waist!  A ridge formed from the upper inside seam. 

That, dear readers, is why I should probably think underlining my skirts in the future. 

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Where to buy the top pattern Burda 7444

That seems to be the question of the day.  Well, at least the comment of the day for the post on that top.  It is a really cool top isn't it?  Anyway, what you really want to know is where can you buy a copy so you too can sew yourself the perfect top for walking out in style.

All sizes are included in one envelope - from size 6 (32) to 18 (44).  Unlike the Burda pattern magazines the printed patterns do include seam allowances. The instructions are more detailed than what is included in the magazines. 


I purchased my copy at a local Joann's just a few months ago.  Not only does Joann's carry Burda patterns, the price seems to always be 40% off of the list price. 

I'm sure if you have any independently owned fabric stores in your area, but they would also be very likely to carry Burda patterns. I know Treadle Yard Goods, which is in my neck of the woods, carries Burda (as well as many other of the independent designer patterns).


As far as internationally or online - with the exception of PatternReview and SewingPatterns.com I'm not sure. I've purchased from PatternReview before but not SewingPatterns.com.

Good luck with your search  - and I can't wait to see what yours looks like.

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Cowl neck + Turtleneck + Drama = Burda 7444

The perfect marriage of a cowl neck and a turtleneck with a little drama thrown in for good measure.

Burda 7444 pullover knit top

The turtleneck is pretty obvious. The cowl neck is hinted at with the front drape.

The drama? Well, that's the back shoulders, baby.

All in all it's a pretty simple top to sew. Tedious, but simple.   I managed to cut this out and sew it all today. And that was in between helping my husband rip up carpet and prepare the floor for our new flooring.

The front piece is gathered along the shoulder line and wraps over the shoulder where it is gathered and attached to the back like a raglan sleeve (as shown above). 

The instructions have you run two rows of long machine stitches along the shoulder line and the back side edge. 

Next you pull the gathers up to a specified measurement. In my case it was 7-1/2" for the shoulders and 10-1/4" for the back side edge. To keep the stitches from pulling out when I was gathering them I pulled all the threads to the back side and tied a knot.

Instead of sewing a ribbon to the wrong side to stay the gathers (per the written instructions) I cut a piece of clear elastic 7-1/2" and sewed in place down the center of the two rows of stitching.

I did the same thing to stabilize the side back edges, even though the instructions called for strips of fusible interfacing.

Once the front is sewn to the back you get this awesome design detail.

There's no need to add the zipper unless you use a fairly stable knit. Which you don't want to do as you'll loose the great gathering and draping detail.

I used a soft knit - probably a polyester - that had been purchased about two years ago at Hancock Fabrics for this design, Butterick 5146 (now OOP). While I did begin sewing the long kimono style jacket I decided it really wasn't a look for me.  I think this Burda top was a better fit for the fabric (and me).

Butterick 5146 (photo Butterick.com)

While my love affair with the cowl neck continues this Burda top is a good option for those days when I like the additional comfort of fabric around my neck.

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