Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Doing an FBA on the McCall's 6070 Maxi Dress

Thank you for all the fabulous comments on the maxi dress!  It appears I'm not the only one who decided to wait a bit before deciding to sew a maxi dress - and from the sounds of it I'll likely get to wear this one for more than just one season.  

Which makes me happy cuz this baby is one super comfy dress.

Anyway, as I mentioned on maxi dress post I used the pivot and slide method to alter the bodice.
McCall's 6070, Image from www.mccallpattern.mccalls.com
I knew looking at the bodice of this pattern that I would need to increase the bust fullness as well as add to the lower front of front bodice.  I figured I'd only need to add a bit as there appeared to be enough ease (the gathers) in the bust.  I choose to do a small  FBA - a full bust adjustment for those of you who asked...you know who you are :-) on this dress pattern, McCall's 6070.

I'm sure there are numerous ways to do a small FBA, but this is how I did it for this pattern. 

1) Cut the pattern piece along the cutting lines.  Place the pattern piece on top of a large piece of paper (I use tracing paper from Blick Art Supplies). Trace around the entire pattern piece. 



2) Determine how much you want to add to the bust and divide by two.   I wanted to add about an inch so divided by two meant I would make my mark at 1/2".


3) Next I secure the pattern piece to my cutting board with a pin at the top of the armhole and move the pattern piece until the bottom of the armhole is at the mark I made in step two.  The red lines in the photo show the original tracing lines of the pattern.  Trace around the "new"armhole.


4) I then move the pin to the and secure the pattern to the cutting board at the bottom of the armhole and pivot the pattern piece until the front met the original front line I traced.  Trace the "new"side seam.


5) Now, pivot the pattern piece until the bottom matches the original bottom line you drew in step one.  It's the red line in my photo.  Did you notice the "new"armhole and side seams that you drew?  They're the green lines in my photo.  I added additional length to the center front simply by drawing a new line (bottom green line).



6) Last, but not least, don't forget to draw the grain line and pattern markings (like dots) on your new paper pattern piece.


As always, keep in mind that I'm not a pattern-maker and learned how to alter my patterns a lot of experimentation, reading sewing books and lots of trial and error.  If there's a better way that will achieve a better fit please chime in.

That being said, I'm happy with the fit.  And that's the main thing isn't it?

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10 comments:

  1. Great pattern alteration. I don't know a better way to do it!

    Thanks for the quick how to.

    ~Sewing Projects Living Dailies Publisher: Joanna

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  2. becky corcoran10:36 PM

    Thanks, Sharon. I did a FBA on a similar style bustline a few years ago and I like your method so much better! Love the dress on you too!

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  3. Thanks for sharing. I have a similar pattern that will need alteration.

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  4. That's a really clever way to make the pattern suit your body. Thank you.

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  5. And you should be happy with the fit! It looks awesome on you.

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  6. This is so helpful this will help me on a few patterns I have in mind.

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  7. Anonymous2:33 PM

    This is the way I learned to do pattern alterations. I am short waisted and have a full bust and this method has never let me down!

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  8. Anonymous2:34 PM

    This is the way I learned to do pattern alterations. I am short waisted and have a full bust and this method has never let me down!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Anonymous2:34 PM

    This is the way I learned to do pattern alterations. I am short waisted and have a full bust and this method has never let me down!

    ReplyDelete

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