Tuesday, January 04, 2011

Mini houndstooth skirt - Butterick 5566

Butterick 5566 Skirt
Isn't she lovely? I spent a few hours sewing her last week. Butterick 5566 - I heart her. 

(image from Butterick.com)

I have plans to sew all of the views, but for my first one I choose to sew view A. The one with cool dart detail

And did you notice that I even picked the same fabric as the cover illustration? Sometimes I amaze myself with my ability to think outside the box.

Here's a closer look at those darts. There are three that radiate out from the waist in  different lengths - short, medium and long. 


Also, that front piece is an overlay.  Here I'm demonstrating how NOT to sew the overlay. I had sewed the darts on the inside of the overlay and didn't realize it until I was ready to add the overlay to the skirt front. Oops! Back to the machine to rip out those gorgeous darts and resew them correctly.


The bottom of the overlay is finished with a mitered corner.  The instructions for the mitered corners are not included with the pattern - here's how I do mine.


One change I made was to add a lining. Because the skirt had a front overlay it easy to add a lining. I simply cut my lining pieces (a few inches shorter) using the front and back skirt pattern. After sewing the lining darts and side seams I matched the upper edges of the skirt and lining (with wrong sides together) basted along the waistline. Then I sewed the facing per the instructions.  Next time I might do a petersham ribbon facing as I like the thought of a little less bulk at the waistline. 



The other change I made was to use an invisible zipper with a fabric tab on the inside.


I'm loving the skirt. It's basic and unique all at once.

True confession time. After eight hours hours of sitting, standing and walking the skirt  is looking a bit rumpled.  Not too noticeable from a distance.


But - look at what's happening at the waist!  A ridge formed from the upper inside seam. 


That, dear readers, is why I should probably think underlining my skirts in the future. 

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33 comments:

  1. Great skirt! Classic, but not boring! I look forward to seeing the other versions of the pattern that you make.

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  2. This looks great! What a cool skirt, and I love that fabric. I'm putting this pattern on my must-have list!

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  3. It's a cute skirt and looks a million times better than a RTW version even with your "flaws". I think it looks great, even at the end of the day!

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  4. Very nice pattern!

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  5. What a beautiful skirt! Live those details

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  6. I just bought that pattern so its really cool to see someone make it before I give it a go!
    Your skirt looks great

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  7. That is such a cool skirt, the fabric is great, too. Can't wait to see the rest of the skirts from this pattern.

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  8. Even after wearing all day it looks great! I have a suggestion for the waist facing. I just made a skirt and tried a wide knit elastic as a facing. I got the idea from an Ann Taylor skirt I bought last season. It is very comfortable and easy peasy!

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  9. I love it, this is one of those patterns I wouldn't have looked twice at, but now I have seen yours I want it!

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  10. What a stylish skirt! I want that pattern now. The other views are great too.

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  11. Super cute choice. Love your work.

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  12. she is lovely! I will add it to my list

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  13. What a great skirt! I agree it looks great after all day wear too! I think Debra Martin's tip sounds like a good tutorial we should all see!

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  14. Absolutely lovely!! I just ordered that pattern and now I can't wait for it to arrive.

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  15. You are kicking major butt with your sewing lately! Where did you buy your energy pill, cause I need one! Your skirt is terrific. I love a houndstooth.

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  16. Beautiful skirt! It's definitely got that "WOW" factor.

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  17. Love the skirt. A very smart an classic look.

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  18. Fantastic! I was wondering what this would look like on an actual person and not just the drawing. This one is on my must-sew list.

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  19. A lining was a good idea, but you could have made a facing or add a waistband.

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  20. boy those darts are so hot. great eye for patterns. great fit too. that ridge sucks, but you know what i think that blouse or belt is going to cover it so it should not be such a bother....

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  21. I have to have this pattern! The draping is fabulous and you've done a very professional job on the construction.

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  22. I am so loving skirts this season. You've made me want to pull that Butterick pattern out.

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  23. Great looking skirt. I would like to have one such and I will buy in coming month.

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  24. Excellent pattern. It is looking very cool and nice.

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  25. What a cool skirt pattern!! I really love your addition of the fabric tab over the zipper, I must remember that.

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  26. What a fabulous skirt!

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  27. that's beautiful! I love your blog and your projects!

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  28. It is a beautful skirt! And I love all the different variations of the skirt, what a dreat wardrobe builder!

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  29. Lovely skirt, what a simple but smart idea!!!! Just stumbled across your blog- it is truely great! I wonder if you would allow me to feature this blog on mine- Juliette's Sewing and Style Den and if maybe you could check it out and add it to the blog list too? I only started blogging a few month ago and trying to spread the word a bit. Thank you. Juliette

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  30. This is an excellent skirts. Thanks for sharing

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  31. Just found your blog and enjoy it immensely. I'm finishing up the same skirt in a gray wool print. Did the same thing w/ re to the lining. I also cut out the remains of a butter yellow wool to make the same view again. (I also think outside the box! lol)

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  32. Hi, I'm making the same skirt, but as a new sewist, I'm not sure how to add a lining. How did you get around the zipper? I've already attached the zipper, but then realized I also need a lining due to the itchiness of the wool fabric. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

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  33. Ngoc - for the lining, simply stitched the center back seam up to the marked dot where the zipper would be inserted on the skirt. So the back seam of the lining is open from the dot to the top of the lining. Press the opening to the inside along the 5/8" seam line. After sewing in the lining pin the lining on the inside of the skirt to the zipper tape. Hand sew the lining to the zipper tape.

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