In progress - Sandra Betzina's last cowl neck knit top, Vogue 1197

Not feelin' the love on this one.

I should be, after all it has three elements I look for in a casual wear-with-my-jeans-on-the-weekend top:

1) It's a knit
2) It has a scoop or v-neckline. This one has a cowl with is even better.
3) It has shoulder/sleeve interest

Like I said, it's not working out too well. A photo of the top in progress:

Here's my analysis:

1) It's a raglan style. Not a good look in a knit top for someone with my body shape (narrow shoulder combined with large bust).

2) The sleeve shirring is not visually widening the shoulder area as much as I thought it would.

3) It's difficult to see in the line drawings, but I found this to be rather boxy in shape. So far I took the side seams in by almost an inch each. I now find that I'll need to sew a shaped seam in the back and remove a lot of fabric - 6" inches or so - around the waist line to get more of the shape I'd like.

4) The instructions provided for the sleeve shirring didn't produce the best results. Next time I'd do it differently, but for now I'll just redo the right sleeve (the left one in this photo) so the gathers are more evenly distributed.

Even though I hate wasting time on something I'm not sure I'll wear, I'm just gonna crank this baby out so I can move on. Now that cooler weather has returned I'm eager to finish the Guy Laroche suit I began last spring.

Pin It

How to Sew an Adorable Child's PickUp Skirt - Two Looks in One and no pattern needed

Two skirts in one!
And oh sew simple to sew. I'll show you how...

First, gather your supplies
2/3 to 5/8 yard 44" wide fabric for the under skirt
2/3 to 5/8 yard 44" wide fabric for the upper skirt
1/8 yard 44" wide fabric for the yoke
1/2" to 5/8" wide elastic to fit your child's waist
46" of trim (optional)
24 snaps
Matching thread

Be sure to choose a fabric that is fairly soft and drapes well or your pickups won't look very nice. My sample is sewn from baby wale corduroy purchased last week at Joann Fabrics. Perfect for fall weather!
Draw your pattern - this sample is approx. a size 4. The finished skirt measures approximately 12-1/2" from waist to hem.

Bottom skirt pattern (shown in the top of the photo):
Draw a line 18" long on top
Beginning at that center mark, make a mark in the center, at 9"
Draw a vertical line 12" long
Draw a line 24" long on bottom being sure to center the line
Connect the top and bottom lines along the side
Measure 12" along each side edge and curve the bottom edge slightly

Top skirt pattern (shown in the lower right of the photo)
Draw a line 7" long on top
Make a mark in the center, at 3-1/2"
Beginning at that center mark, draw a vertical line 12" long
Draw a line 10" long on bottom being sure to center the line
Connect the top and bottom lines along the side

Yoke pattern (shown in the lower left of the photo)
Draw a line 15" along the top
Make a mark in the center, at 7-1/2"
Beginning at that center mark, draw a vertical line 4" long
Draw a line 18" long on bottom being sure to center the line
Connect the top and bottom lines
Measure 4" along the side edge and curve the bottom edge slightly

Of course if you have a skirt pattern you use and love you can certainly use that pattern as your base
Cut your fabric
Cut 2 lower skirts
Cut 6 upper skirt panels
Cut 2 skirt yokes

Sew the skirt
Seam allowances are 1/2"

Upper skirt
Place 3 skirt panels right sides together and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance


Right sides together, using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew together at the side seams

Finish the seams
Finish your seam allowances
Don't worry if you don't have a serger. You don't need one. Choose another seam finish. I have document on Scribd that you can print out for reference here.


Under skirt
With right sides together, using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the side seams of the under skirt

You now have two separate skirts


Layer the skirts
Place the upper skirt on top of the lower skirt. The wrong side of the upper skirt will be against the right side of the lower skirt

Match the upper edges together and pin

Baste the upper edges together

You will now have a skirt with two layers


Skirt yoke
With wrong sides together, using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew the side seams of the skirt yoke together

With wrong sides together pin the upper edge of the skirt to the lower edge of the yoke, matching the side seams

Sew together, using a 1/2" seam allowance

Finish the seam

Your double layer skirt is now attached to the yoke

Make the casing
On the top edge of the yoke, turn in and press 1/4" or serge finish

Turn again 3/4" and press in place

Stitch close to the folded (or serged) edge, but be sure to leave an opening about 3/4" wide at one side seam so you can insert your elastic!

Insert the elastic
Cut a piece of elastic the size of your child's waist measurement, plus 1"

For my sample I cut a piece of elastic 21" long

Place a safety pin on one end of the elastic and insert it into the casing you just made


Using the safety pin, pull the elastic thru the casing

Tip! Pin the end of the elastic to your fabric so you don't accidentally pull it through your casing


Once you reach the end pull the elastic out, overlap both ends by about 1" and pin in place

Now's a good time to safety pin the elastic to the skirt and try it on your child to make sure it isn't too loose or too tight. It's easier to change the elastic before you secure the ends together.



Now you'll secure the elastic together

I like to use a wide zig zag stitch and sew back and forth a few times

Next place all of the elastic inside the casing and sew the casing closed

Hem the skirt
Wow! You're almost done! It's time to hem both the under and upper skirts.

Just as you did with the casing, turn in and press 1/4" or serge finish the bottom edge

Turn again 3/4" and press in place

Sew close to the pressed (or serged) edge to secure the hem

If you want to add trim to the under skirt do so now

Place the trim on the bottom of the under skirt on the right side and sew in place

Make the pick ups
On the inside of the upper skirt you're going to make four marks on the seam allowances

Beginning at the bottom of the skirt measure up 8-1/2" and make a mark

Next, from the bottom of the skirt measure up 6-1/2" and make a mark

Next, from the bottom of the skirt measure up 5" and make a mark

Finally, from the bottom of the skirt measure up 2-1/2" and make a mark

Now thread a needle with matching thread because you're going to sew those 24 snaps onto the skirt

At the bottom (2-1/2") mark sew the ball of a snap at the mark on the right side of the seam allowance

At the next mark (5") sew the socket of a snap at the mark on the left side of the seam allowance

Continue on...

At the next mark (6-1/2") sew the ball of a snap at the mark on the right side of the seam allowance

At the last mark (8-1/2") sew the socket of a snap at the mark on the left side of the seam

Do this on all six seam allowances


Create the pick up
Snap the lower snaps together ...

...to get this look

The under skirt barely peeks out - get creative and only snap the two front seams


Snap both the lower and uppers snaps together ...

...to get this look


Leave the snaps unsnapped to get this look...


See? Wasn't that easy?

Please email me if you have any questions (sewingbysharon at gmail dot com)

I'd love to see your version so send me a link to your blog or photo when you sew one up!

***************************************** Pin It

DIY 1954 Children's Halloween Masks - do not try these at home

You seriously won't believe these DIY Halloween masks I came across in the October 1954 issue of The American Home magazine.

I couldn't stop myself and started laughing when I saw them. "Are ya kiddin' me?" might be your reaction too. They're too hilarious not to share. Well, at least you're instructed to use fireproof crepe paper...

A pony! What child doesn't love a pony?

Of course if your child prefers flowers this daffodil mask might be the way to go. Or maybe they want to scare the neighbors as a ferocious lion!

But wait! Maybe roses are more your thing. Lucky you - there are instructions to create a rose mask. And of course what would Halloween be without a pumpkin head?

Really? Brown bags covering your child's head? Please do not actually make these masks.

It reminds me of the Mad Men episode when Sally (Don and Betty's daughter for those of you who don't watch the show) comes running to the kitchen where Betty is having coffee with her neighbor, Francine. Sally has a plastic dry cleaning bag over her head as she's pretending to be a space creature. Betty, rightfully so, scolds Sally. Not for wearing the bag but for possibly tossing the newly dry-cleaned clothing on the floor! Ha! We've come a long way haven't we?

Again, please do not make these masks for your child!

************************************************ Pin It

Flashback Friday - The Unicorn, The Pirate and The Mermaid

I've been thinking about Halloween lately. I'm not sure why.

Perhaps its cold wet weather reminds me of October. Perhaps its because the local thrift stores have begun heavily advertising their annual boo-tiques. Or perhaps its because I want to play dress up.

Whatever the reason I've been mulling over costumes. Oh sure, I could pull out my handy dandy costume box and become a dalmatian puppy or a flapper or a sixties country western star, but it'd be so much more fun to create something new. But what? Winnie the Pooh? I have the pattern and fabric. Star Trek's Uhura? I do think red's my color. Prince? I know I have purple velvet is tucked away somewhere. Marilyn? The dress would be fabulous, but me blonde? Not so much.

Well, while I decide what to create I thought it'd be fun to repost this Halloween Flashback Friday from 2007. Enjoy!

**********************************************
So, to begin your costume inspiration I invite you to travel back with me to to Halloween 1988. That was the year the unicorn, the pirate and the mermaid attended a well-known night club's Halloween bash in the hopes of winning some money!

The unicorn is my friend that designed the Ren-Faire goat pants I wrote about here and the blue Ren-Faire gown I wrote about here.

She (the beautiful blonde unicorn draped all over the pirate) designed and sewed all three of these costumes and was kind enough to let me wear the mermaid gown. BTW, the pirate is her hubby so it's perfectly acceptable for her to be draped all over him.

Oh my gosh - I loved that mermaid gown! It was so intricately beaded and embellished with the tail sewn from a variety of green brocades. And get this - the tail zipped completely closed! Meaning you could ask a super cute, big muscled, hunky guy to carry you around, LOL.

I had the perfect seafoam green heels to wear with the costume as well as a sequined headband (hello? ... 1988 remember?) and big beaded dangling earrings. I remember complaining about my big "backside" when I saw these pictures. Ah, the foolishness of youth. I'd kill for a backside that tiny once again.

The music was great, the dancing was fun, and the flirty gal in the teensy-tiny devil costume won first prize.

*************************************************** Pin It

It's Done! Vogue 1183 - The Red Kay Unger Dress

The red Kay Unger dress - Vogue 1183 - is finally done. Actually it's been done for a few weeks now, I just haven't felt like putting a sleeveless dress on so I could take photographs. It's been cold here!

Now I don't want to hear any of "oh, it's cold here too...it got down to 70"...or something like that. Just kidding. I only say that because I'm jealous. It's been cold enough that I seriously debated about whether or not to turn the heat on in the house. (I didn't by the way. Time enough for that soon enough. I just piled on more sweaters.)

However, as I was switching my closet over from warm to cold weather attire, I thought I'd at least blog about the dress before it gets packed away. This baby likely won't see the light of day for another six month.

So what can I say about the dress? Love the red color and the fabric - an RPL ponte knit from Fabric Mart Fabrics - is super comfy. Not quite as wonderful as I had envisioned but that has more to do with the style of the dress on me versus the actual dress.

I did a small FBA, which is one of my usual alterations. I also added 3/8" length to the bodice. Again, nothing out of the ordinary for me.

It appears from the pattern envelope that the back waist inset is lower than the front - at least judging by where the belt hits the model's waistline. I found that to be true on my dress also. But the back was too low compared to the front so I ended up removing the excess length at the side seam and back bodice.


Even with the FBA the front gaps. I'll need to tack it closed - as mentioned by many others who have already sewn this one.

The pattern is rated easy, but don't confuse easy with quick. Something I like to do. This is indeed easy to sew, but it was time consuming. As I mentioned in a previous post, if you're unsure of how this might fit you do a muslin. The order of construction for this dress is such that you sew pieces together, edgestitch and topstitch, then continue with the construction.

For example, the princess seams on the front and back bodice are sewn, edgestitched and topstitched before the shoulder seams are sewn. The lining is then added which finishes the neck and armhole edges with the neckline then edgestitched and topstitched. Now the bodice side seams are sewn together. All of this happens before sewing the midriff and skirt pieces to the bodice. If you usually make alterations as you sew it's going to be more difficult with this dress.

That being said, because I didn't follow my advise and sew a muslin, I basted the entire dress together and checked the fit before doing any final sewing. I cut a 12 in the shoulder/bust and tapered to a 14 at the waist/hip, but ended up taking the dress in at the waist and hip.

The edgestitching and topstitching was the most time consuming part of this dress, but it sure does make it look polished. Want to know my tip for even topstitching? I use a 1/4" quilting foot. Produces nice even rows every time.


The dress is fully lined and I used a white tricot knit that I had on hand. It doesn't make for the most beautiful looking dress on the inside but it serves its purpose. I followed the instructions Vogue gave for adding the lining. It seemed odd as I sewed it, but the end result was quite nice.

Even though I completed it too late in the season to enjoy wearing it, it was a fun project to work on. And I'll have something new to wear when the weather warms up again...in about six months.

Pin It

Woo! Beautiful Blogger Award

Thanks Rebecca for nominating me for the Beautiful Blogger Award! (It was the post about the leopard skivvies pattern wasn't it?) I really appreciate it Rebecca.

I've been blogging for more than four years now, sometimes with more regularity than others, and I can see why it's called social media. This is about a community. A community of friends bonded by a common love of sewing and creating. A community that embraces and connects with one other. A community that willingly shares knowledge, advise and a good joke now and then. A community that reached out to me when my son began his battle with brain cancer. A community that kept visiting my blog even though my sewing and posts slowed down to almost zero. A I really appreciate that about all of you.

Over the years I've gotten to know so many of you through your comments, your blogs and more recently through Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter. I've met a few of you face-to-face and hope to meet many more of you. Especially when that day comes when I finally make it to NYC to go fabric shopping. I almost got my husband convinced...

So, back to the award. This one comes with rules. Here they are:

The rules of the award state that you have to list 10 things about yourself that others do not know about you.

By the way, before I continue, let me ask if you visited Rebecca's blog yet. If not, get on over there. But don't forget to come back. I know you're just dying to know 10 random things about me :-) I love the name of her blog - UglyCute Designs. Start with with her Beautiful Blogger post to get to know her. Then browse her older posts - she has a great eye for design.

So, ten random things about me.

1) I didn't know I was a dog lover until I adopted Brandi in 1991. Now I couldn't imagine my life without a dog. Abby (the big black lab/newfie mix) and Sophia (the little white Maltese) now share my life.

2) My parents enrolled me in dance lessons when I was three on the advise of a doctor. Apparently I was clutzy and chubby. (Ummmm, yea, I was three...) I studied ballet until age 16. You know what? I'm still a bit clumsy.

3) I like to read almost - almost - as much as I like to sew. My husband refuses to buy another bookshelf in the mistaken believe that if I have no place to put my books I will quit buying them. Silly boy.

4) I'm not afraid of public speaking. I don't necessarily seek it out - and prefer to be prepared - but could probably wing it if I had to. As long as no one was expecting comic relief. Then again, I bet I could do a mean prat fall ala Chevy Chase during his SNL years. (See #2 - clumsy)

5) I walked on a nail when I was child. Willingly. In my little 10-year-old brain I thought I could balance on it just like in the cartoons. I couldn't. Ouch.

6) As a young child I wore saddle shoes. Perhaps that's where my love of shoes came from. As soon as I could wear cute shoes and heels I did. I've never looked back. I even remember the cute little white sandals I wore when I walked on the nail. Sadly they didn't survive.

7) At age 41 I became a follower of Jesus Christ. I'd always known about Jesus and had been a faithful church goer. But I didn't know the true meaning of salvation until driving to work one morning listening to a radio program with Pastor Greg Laurie. Wow! What a gift. My only regret is that it took me so long.

8) Bad sewing habit - I put pins in my mouth. All the time. I try so hard to remember to use a pin cushion and I just can't break the habit. Really annoying when you forget you're wearing red lipstick until you place a pin in your fabric - usually something light colored and really expensive.

9) In the early 80s, right after graduating from computer technology training (fixing mainframe computers), I experienced the most ridiculous and frustrating interviews. "Oh honey, you'll meet a nice man and settle down soon" said as the male interviewer patted my hand in a grandfatherly fashion. "I can't hire you! The guys will watch you all day instead of doing their job" and "I hope you didn't take time off of work to come to this interview. I'll never hire a women for this job". Although I had some of the highest grades in my graduating class I never did land a job in that field. Ladies, aren't you glad times have changed?

10) Creativity runs in my family. They paint, they act, they write, they draw, they bake divine desserts. My father - I swear the man must be a genius - carves the most beautiful and intricate birds you've ever seen. My favorite creative outlet just happens to be sewing.

Well, you stuck with me. I think I'm supposed to pass this along. I hate that part, because that means I have to choose. You'll have to wait for another day as I'm just so far behind in my blog reading to know how far this award has already traveled.

Back to sewing news. I'll be ready to share the red Kay Unger dress with you as soon as I get some photos taken.

********************************************************* Pin It

The Creative Connection Event - creativity for the soul

Doesn't this look like heaven? Three days of creativity and inspiration.

It's The Creative Connection Event being held in Minneapolis next week.

Are any of you attending ? My budget would only allow for one day, and that would likely be Saturday so I wouldn't have to fight rush hour traffic.

I love attending these things, but in all honesty, when you go alone there's the possibility of not really bonding with anyone. It really depends on the event. I've been to some where the women are all their with friends and, as nice and polite as they are, they don't really have room for one more. Then again, I've been to other events where I've met women I felt that I've known my whole life.

Seriously, if any of you are going please contact me (sewingbysharon at gmail dot com) as I'm still debating whether or not to go. Knowing I have a virtual friend to meet up with could easily sway my decision :-)

Wow, I just reread what I wrote. Can you tell I'm a bit of people person? I base my attendance at events on whether or not I will enjoy my interactions with my fellow attendees. *LOL* I could just go and absorb everything possible and report back to you...

*********************************************************** Pin It

A, You're Adorable Cecelia's Apron - a pattern review

Take two vintage embroidered and lace trimmed pillowcases, add 1/2 yard of fabric and a 1" bias tape maker and you get an adorable apron!

The pattern is Cecelia's Apron from Homestead Specialties. Click on the pattern image to go to the website with the pattern information.

There are no pattern pieces in this pattern. What you get are instructions on how to cut the pillowcases, ties and waistband as well as where to add bias binding and how to sew the section together. And a fun story of the designer's grandmother, Cecelia. And Grandmother Cecelia's date pudding recipe. Yum! Perfect to whip up while wearing your new apron.

It's a simple sewing project as the pillowcase is the main fabric. Which means the hemming and seam finishes are already done for you. Not to mention the adorable embroidering and lace edging.

That being said, if you're a complete beginner you may have questions on a few things, depending on how you learn. There are a few diagrams and the instructions assume you have a little bit of sewing knowledge.

I got hung up on how to finish the bottom edge of the bias binding at the hemline of the apron. Bias binding is used a lot in quilting so maybe if I quilted it would have been a no brainer for me. As such, I wasn't sure so I tucked the ends in and topstitched. Not the prettiest but it works. I'm guessing only another sewer would even notice the non-perfect finish.

Now of course if you come visit me some day and I'm wearing this adorable apron I don't want to hear a word out of you about the finish. Got it? Not one word...

After sewing the pillowcase sections together you gather the apron top to measure 18", match the center fronts and sew the apron to the waistband. Next you finish the tie ends. The designer's sample shows the tie ends angled. I didn't notice that in the photo before I finished mine so my tie ends are square.

A is also for annoying. That's because I sewed on the waistband and finished the tie ends before I realized I hadn't actually matched the center fronts. Do you know when I figured it out? When I was looking at the left tie end (on your right in the photo) and admiring how nice and long it was. I do love those long apron ties! As I was admiring it I decided to try it on to admire how adorable it would look with a bow in the front. That's when I cried out "arrgh!" Or something like that...

So I ripped the stitches out and remarked the center fronts. This time instead of just marking the center front on the waistband I made a mark 6" and 9" on each side of the center. The 9" is where the side edge of the apron ends up and the 6" is where the seam joining the pillowcase panels ends up. Having already made one silly mistake I wanted to make sure my gathers looked even on both sides.


And they do.

You're probably tired of my obsession with the word adorable, but as I sewed this apron at every step of the way I kept thinking "it's so adorable!"

I now leave you with a 1971 version of Sandi and Sally singing "A, You're Adorable" on the Lawrence Welk show.

*********************************************

Pin It

Look at me. Now look at your man. 70s style.

I just don't understand why this pattern was sitting unloved in the thrift store.

Shhhhh. Can you keep a secret?

I'm thinking somebody just might be getting some new briefs under the Christmas tree - but only if I can find that leopard print.

You DID notice the leopard print, right? *LOL*

****************************************** Pin It