Making lemonade from lemons - Simplicity 2451 skirt

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Remember my post about being shorted 4" on a piece of wool during my last shopping excursion at Hancock Fabrics? (You can read about it here if you haven't already.)

Well, I needed the full 1-1/2 yards for the dress I had planned to sew - McCall's 5971, view B. Yes, I could have sewn view A with small partial cap sleeves, but it just wasn't what I had in my minds eye. I even thought the mini houndstooth dress would look kinda cool with an exposed back zipper ala Gertie. (Still gonna borrow that idea - love it!)

But four inches less than 1-1/2 yards meant there would not be enough for the dress, so I did the next best thing. Whipped up a skirt using one of Simplicity's newer releases - 2451 . The skirt only required 1-3/8" of 60" fabric, so I was able to make it work.

The skirt is has six panels and flares out at the hem - a short mermaid style if you will. It also has a curved yoke, front pockets (yea!) and decorative tabs with 1" buttons. I find the slight downward curve of the front yoke to be flattering.

I originally planned to sew the running stitches using black embroidery thread, but once the skirt was done I didn't think the stitches would have enough of an impact. I'll save that detail for another time.


The pattern doesn't call for a lining, but I do like my lined skirts so a lining was added. A cheap one as I just picked up 15 yards of black polyester lining at the thrift store for a whopping $3.99. At that price I don't care that it's polyester. It will do very nicely in my skirts thank you very much.

Adding a lining to this skirt was very easy to do. All I did was cut the skirt pattern pieces out of lining. To make sure I didn't accidentally cut away the front pocket, I pinned the front pocket piece to the front skirt and cut as one.

I then sewed the skirt lining to the bottom edge of the waistline facing, sewed the facing on per the pattern instructions and voila! Lined skirt.

The pattern is rated "easy-to-sew" so if you're looking for a new basic skirt pattern, this just might be it.

Full review can be read at PatternReview here.

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Inside the big brown box brought by the boy in brown

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Time to blog the big boy brown box! (*LOL* thanks Gwen!)

Inside that 26 lb big brown box brought by the boy in brown was 42 yards of fabric.

So much for stash reduction. I just added more yardage in this one purchase than I did in 2009.

However, at $1.95/yard - less 30% (thank you retailmenot.com!) - plus free shipping it didn't set me back too much.

So what specific fabrics did I order?

Left top to bottom: purple cotton voile, purple silk/rayon blend, chartreuse poly/cotton houndstooth suiting, fuchsia lambswool flannel suiting and cobalt wool blend boucle suiting.

Right top to bottom: deep navy (almost black) poly/acetate/cotton jacquard circles, black polyester crepe, black stretch lightweight wool suiting, cream jersey knit, nude jersey knit and ivory wool blend boucle suiting.


So what am I going to do with them? Other than fondle them and dream of the possibilities, I actually have a few garments in mind.

Ivory boucle suiting - perhaps a Chanel type jacket ala McCall's 6041.

This photo shows the fabric after I pretreated it. I used the wool setting on my front load washer (cold water gentle spin) and tossed it in the dryer on very, very low heat for about 30 minutes. Just enough to remove some of the dampness. It felted ever so slightly.


Cobalt multi wool blend boucle - something unlined and flowy as the fabric is airy. I might sew Vogue 2923, which I've had in my pattern collection since it was released. I just could never seem to find the perfect fabric. (By the way, this pattern is now OOP and is currently clearanced at $5.00 at voguepatterns.mccalls.com.)

I haven't pretreated this one yet, but plan on air drying versus the dryer to keep it from felting.


Black stretch lightweight wool suiting - I'm not completely sure, but was thinking one of these dresses from Simplicity. Either 2473 or 2550.

This is really lightweight and absolutely fabulous. I had purchased something similar to this a few years back from SR Harris and wished I had more. This is seriously my favorite out of the entire purchase.


Black polyester crepe - this was purchased to sew this Betzina skirt - Vogue 1018. (Which looks like it just went OOP.) I just purchased this pattern weeks ago, after seeing it on a sewing blog - Communing with Fabric.


Chartreuse poly/cotton houndstooth suiting - knowing I could never, ever wear this color near my face I only purchased two yards with the plan on sewing a pencil skirt. I'm still undecided whether to sew simple pencil skirt or use Vogue 8603 and place the plaid diagonally on the side panels. We'll see. The color is way out of my comfort zone so this should be a fun project.


Fuchsia lambswool flannel suiting - the fabric that began my downhill fall. You see, I happened to be reading the PR boards and stumbled across a discussion about how great this fuchsia lambswool flannel was. I then came across another discussion mentioned it was marked down to $1.95/ yd at Fabric.com. The rest is history.

Anyway, I'm still debating which suit pattern. I love the Tracy Reese design - Vogue 1126 - but it may need a lighter weight wool. Perhaps Vogue 8543, but again, it may be too heavy for that peplum. I'll have to think on this one a bit. But not too long as I'd like to wear it yet this season.

The other fabrics? Well the jersey knits were purchased as possible linings as they are not colors I can wear. The purple silk/rayon and the purple cotton voile - well, I just don't know. But it doesn't matter...I think I have plenty to keep me busy for a very long time.

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The man in brown brought the big brown box

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Say that three times fast!

In case you're wondering, this is what 26 lbs of fabric looks like. *LOL*

And (shock) it's not from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

It's from Fabric dot com.

I haven't purchased from them in over six years. It was the recent $1.95 / yard Vera Wang fabric markdowns that did me in.

Quality fabrics (for a steal) along with great customer service.

Ha! Take that Hancock Fabrics.

1-1/2 yards please and by the way, how much was that?

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Another post about Hancock Fabrics (sorry!).

Don't they realize I'm on their side? But they're making it hard, very hard indeed.

Let me tell you my little story.

Stopped at Hancock Fabrics recently to spend a gift certificate.

After selecting patterns and buttons I wandered into the fabric section. Tried not to get too excited, but they had their wools marked down - 50% off. Yes!

In an effort to be thoughtful with my purchases, I carefully selected my fabrics with specific items in mind.

Went to the cutting table just as another customer was finishing.

Placed one bolt on the cutting table as I patiently waited for the clerk to finish clearing the cutting table.

Another customer arrived after me and asked clerk if anyone else was cutting, to which she replied no, it's just me and I have to have this cleared off before I can start cutting or I could cut things wrong.

Oooooo-kay.

Once she was ready I handed her my first bolt and told her how much I wanted. I pulled out a slip of paper to write down yardage and pricing knowing the barcode wouldn't provide that for me.

Without a word, she measured, cut, folded, applied the barcode and handed the fabric to me.

Wait a minute! I need to know that she knew how much I asked for as well as how much it was per yard. Remember? I have no other way of knowing if sale prices will be correct until I get to the register.

So I asked. With a bit of sigh she told me.

Gave her the next bolt, told her how much I wanted and watched her do the same thing.

And again, I asked, how much is this?

After receiving my answer, I handed her the next bolt and gave my request for yardage.

Surely by now she knows I want to know how much it costs before she cuts and hands it to me.

Nope. Had to ask again.

By now she's getting a little irritated with me because I keep asking how much everything is.

But wait, it gets better.

One fabric didn't have the correct price. I told her it was on sale.

She said well it doesn't come up on sale.

I said yes it is on sale and left the table to to the show her where that fabric was marked on sale.

She said well it doesn't come up on sale.

I politely said, but it is on sale.

She said then I'll have to write it up manually.

To which I replied thank you.

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But wait! There's more.

Last time I checked 1-1/2 yards is 54" of fabric.


Yep, looks good.

Oops! Wait a minute! That says 51", not 54".

Sure enough, 1-1/2 yards along the folded edge, and four inches less along the selvage edge.


*Sigh*

In all my years of sewing and buying fabric (many years) I've never been shorted like this. I sure hope this was just a mistake and not because she was getting irritated and not paying attention. All I wanted was to know how much something cost before I paid for it.

I'm going to pull out all the other fabrics and remeasure them. As for this piece? I changed tracks and decided to use it for a skirt.

C'mon Hancock Fabrics! Work with me here. I'm on your side!

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Go Purple! or McCall's 6036 tee shirt pattern review

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Just thought it appropriate to post something purple. After all, as I write this (very quickly I might add) the Vikings are playing to determine if they will indeed be in the Superbowl.

This tee-shirt was sewn using a new release from McCall's. It's McCall's 6036, one of their "Make it Crafty" patterns. It's a basic scoop neck tee or tank with fabric embellishments, such as ruffles, flowers or lace appliques.

Of course I didn't need a t-shirt pattern, and yes, I could have figured out the embellishments on my own, but yet I purchased it when it was under a dollar.

It's a basic tee, nothing special about the construction process. There were a few things I did that were not included in the instructions.

I stablized the shoulder seams with clear elastic.

Rather than sew a 5/8" narrow hem at the neckline, per the instructions, I serged clear elastic onto the wrong side of the neck edge...

...turned the edge under and stitched in place. I wasn't concerned that it didn't look perfect since I planned to add the neck ruffle, which will cover that puckered area.

The ruffle is simply a narrow piece of fabric, cut twice the measurement of the neck edge, gathered in the center and stitched in place.

Here's what the neckline looks like from the inside.

I don't own a cover stitch machine so I stitched the hem using my usual technique of ironing lite steam-a-seam to the inside of the hem...

... and pressing the hem in place. The steam-a-seam not only holds the hem in place, but it provides a bit of stability, helping prevent a stretched out hem.

With no double needle in site, I sewed two separate rows of stitches. The top shows the right side, the bottom shows the inside.

Since I usually sew with a size 12 I couldn't decide if I should cut a small (8-10) or a medium (12-14) for this top. The description read "close fitting" so I ended up cutting a small at the neck and shoulder and a medium.

I wouldn't consider this close fitting so next time I'll cut with a small. The one item of clothing I do like tight is tees. This has way too much ease for me.

In the meantime, worn tucked in the tee will work nicely for the office paired with slacks and a jacket.
Now back to the game.

Vogue's new web site (and spring pattern releases)

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Did you see the new look over at VoguePatterns.com? I like it! What do you think?

This must have just happened because I've been stalking the site daily so I'd be sure to know when the new spring patterns were uploaded. All the great designs in the last Vogue Patterns magazine made me eager to see the details on the website.

I'm curious about their clearance section. It appears that these patterns - marked down to $5 - are the most recent discards, while the out of print patterns are still their regular full price. Anyone have more information on that?

I'm liking the new spring offerings, especially the new designers, Rebecca Taylor and Rachel Comey. While not all of their designs work for me I suspect they'll be popular.

My favorites?

Vogue 1169. It's a too wide and low to wear to work, but I think I could rework the neckline and make it work.

Vogue 1170. The blouse looks fun - a bit unique without going over the top and the skirt is fitted yet flirty. I'll need to lengthen the skirt.

Vogue 1155. (Image from voguepatterns.com) I wouldn't wear this Guy Laroche design the length shown, but I think a bit longer (just above the knee) would be a fun dress to both sew and wear.

Vogue 8634. (Image from voguepatterns.com) Love the cowl on this one. The line under the bust - not so much.

Vogue 1159. (Image from voguepatterns.com) Is this Donna Karan dress fabulous or what? You MUST see the line drawings on the website to appreciate the front draping.

My not-so favorites?

Vogue 1165. (image from voguepatterns.com) I was really looking forward to this Sandra Betzina's pattern. She mentioned in her spring fashion forecast this blouse would be flattering on a wide variety of figures.

I'm giving her the benefit of the doubt because it seems that the model garments photographed for the Vogue Pattern catalog don't always showcase her designs at their finest.

Vogue 8638. (image from voguepatterns.com) I don't want my jackets to button close this low. I'm afraid if I wore this people would think I made a mistake in my sewing. Now watch. This will be a new super hot trend that everyone in the world will be wearing (expect me).

Which ones are your favorites?

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By the way, if you haven't read my post on the yellow tag barcode system from Hancock Fabrics, please do so and leave me a comment. I really am curious about your experiences with the new system - especially if it has been so great that you think it's the best thing since sliced bread.

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The Hancock Fabrics' yellow tag / barcode update

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Look familiar? Yes, more little yellow tag barcodes from Hancock Fabrics.

If you didn't have a chance to read my original post about these you can do so here. (Just don't forget to come back, okay?)

My post was picked up by a reporter and soon after that I was contacted by Hancock Fabric's VP of Operations with an invitation to call her/him to share my experiences. As I mentioned at the time, I'm impressed that the company reached out to me.

When our conversation began she/he made sure to tell me how Hancock Fabrics values their customers (us!) and how she/he read my post - and your comments - with great interest. They are interested in hearing what we have to say.

I tried to remember all of your comments and questions when I spoke to her/him and hopefully you'll find answers below.

Here's what I learned about Hancock Fabrics' yellow tag / barcode system.

• Yes, it's new. It was rolled out nationwide 6 to 8 weeks ago.

• The system underwent testing for 90 days in approximately 24 chains through out the nation before it went national.

• District managers reported no issues with the barcode system. In fact the reports back were/are mostly positive.
  

• Headquarters received reports from stores that the tags remained on all fabrics.
  

• Initial reports from store indicate that the system seems to work okay- if I remember correctly she/he was referring to the correct pricing showing up at the cutting tables.
  

• The system is intended to improve both speed and accuracy at the cutting table and the check out counter.

• It should improve the accuracy at the cutting table, because the cutter can now see the price of the fabric. If it's not showing up on sale, it will be caught at this point, not after the customer has checked out.

• It is a static barcode, so it shouldn't matter if multiple clerks share a roll of labels. This is the example that was given to me: Customer (you) wants 3 yards of red wool. (Okay, they said broadcloth, but I like wool better...) You tell cutter quantity desired; cutter repeats back yardage to you for verification; cutter cuts fabric; cutter inputs into the scanner; cutter scans info onto yellow barcode. At that point the information is "married" to the information in the system.
  

• Supposedly if your tag falls off between the cutting table and the check out all that needs to happen is that you go back to the cutting table and have them rescan the info and create a new tag. (Now you know I see a problem with this... I'll elaborate later.)
  

• They choose not to have printers at the cutting tables (ala Joann's) due to upkeep (and I imagine extra costs ... maintenance, paper, ink, etc.)

• If an item is not showing the correct price at the cutting table, it could be for a number of reasons. The fabric was a manager's special, it was wrapped on an incorrect bolt, or it simply was missed in the programming.
  

• She/he asked me to send him a copy of my receipt so the overage could be taken care of. It took some time, but hey, it was the holidays. I think most companies and people tend to slow down just a bit during that time. And they are making it right.

• She/he also wanted to see the item that rang up incorrectly so they could share it with their IT guy/gal. I haven't heard back if this item was indeed not in the system correctly or what the cause was.
  

Here's what I think.

• I think they're trying hard to improve their process and eliminate bottlenecks.

• Do I think this is the perfect solution? No. But it's a start. I understand why the company wants to improve processes. I'm sure one reason is to keep their operating costs down. Which I want, and I assume you want too, otherwise those costs will continue to be passed on to us.

• Right now, this feels more store-friendly than customer-friendly. It relies heavily on customer-service oriented cutters at the cutting table that are willing to repeat your fabric order back to you. It relies on customers keeping an eagle eye on those tags.
  

• The tag missing from the fabric sounds like a lose-lose situation. Think about it. You're at the checkout with seven pieces of cut fabric. As the cashier is scanning your fabrics your heart sinks as you realize one yellow tag is missing. You now have to go back to the cutting table to get a replacement tag. This not only embarrasses you (or maybe it's only me that feels embarrassed when something doesn't ring up right and there's a huge line of impatient people behind me.) but it irritates the customers standing in line behind you. You either wait behind everyone at the cutting table to get your replacement tag (which irritates you) or you cut in front of the line (which irritates the other customers). In the meantime the cashier has to decide whether or not to wait for you, or cancel your order and begin ringing everyone else up.

• True life example: My husband visited Hancock Fabrics to purchase a gift card (for me!). He was in the checkout line behind a lady whose yellow tag had fallen off of one of her fabrics. She - the customer, not the sales associate - was sent back into the store to search for the missing tag while the other customers waited (and hoped that it wouldn't happen to them). In this case, hubby reported that they did eventually open another checkout line.
  

In theory the new barcode system should work. Perhaps it's still so new the bugs are still being worked out. Or perhaps the sales associates are still learning to embrace it.

I know I'm playing devil's advocate here. However, I visited a Hancock Fabrics store this past weekend so I could test out the system again. (All right, I admit it. I also had that gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket.)

As this post as gotten rather lengthy I'll share my latest visit with you tomorrow. Let's just say I'm glad I knew about the new barcode system and was prepared.

So I'm curious.

• What do you think? Do you like the new barcode system? Do you find it more accurate? Is it speeding up your check out time? Do you have burning questions about the system that didn't get answered?
  

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McCall's 5815 Jacket and 5984 Skirt

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Well, the new year sewing may have started out with a big bang, but it sure fizzled quickly! However, I did finally complete the skirt to go along with that fabulous gray striped jacket I recently finished. (Post here.)

By the way, thank you ALL who posted a comment on that jacket. Believe me, I love seeing your comments! They warm my heart and I feel just a little bit like Sally Fields at the 1985 Academy Awards "You like me, you really like me" or in this case my jacket, but that's okay.

By the way, did you know that "You like me, you really like me" isn't actually the quote? It's true - check out the Wikipedia entry.

Anyway, back to the subject at hand. I do try and respond to your comments (if you're email is given) but life got in the way this time (as it often does) and other things besides computers, blogging and sewing stole away my free time.

Better late than never. As promised here's the jacket and skirt being worn. No head shots as I don't wear the "shaggy dog" look very well. Isn't it amazing how sometimes you look in the mirror and think all is well, but you see a photo and say to yourself "what?!? I went out in public looking like that?" LOL - I was two weeks overdue for a hair cut when I took these photos and it showed.

I'm sure you care more about the jacket than my mug. It's okay, you can admit it.

So here goes. A reminder that this was sewn using McCall's 5815. Here's a semi-side shot so you can see the collar.

The jacket and skirt together - with red shoes. I love all my red shoes but these are current favorites.
Another jacket and skirt shot. The stripes almost line up between the jacket and skirt. Cool huh?

Here's the look-at-the-wrist shot so you can see the wide sleeve with the slit.

And another jacket and skirt shot. Now this skirt is lined with the same silk as the jacket, but it still got hung up on my tights.

Here's the skirt my itself. If you remember, this is McCall's 5984 - the pattern I used for my little black skirt (LBS). (See this post.) I did a pretty good job at matching the stripes between the yoke and the skirt itself if I do say so myself.

Here I paired the skirt with these great stretch fabric boots. These are the most comfortable pair of boots I've ever owned. They're from DSW (love that place!) and I tried to buy all the other colors as soon as I wore these the first time, but they were already sold out.

And one final closeup of the jacket . It's a bit low so I've added a lace trimmed cami underneath.


I still need to complete the review of the jacket and expect to post that in a few days. The fabric is a poly blend suiting fabric from Hancock Fabrics, a store that I'm becoming more and more hesitant to shop at.

Remember the yellow label post before Christmas? (See posts here) Well, I did indeed speak to the VP of Operations and I want to share what he shared with me, but a new annoyance popped up yesterday. Stay tuned as my next post will be my thoughts about Hancock Fabrics.

McCall'

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First sewing project of 2010 - McCall's 5815 Jacket

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Sewing for 2010 is off to a great start with the completion of this jacket from McCall's 5815.

You know which one I'm talking about - the Nanette Lapore knock-off jacket with the great collar. Many of you may be familiar with this pattern - there are 10 reviews on PatternReview as well as some postings of the jacket by other bloggers (I just can't locate the posts at the moment to show you.)

Wanting a jacket to wear during the winter months, I choose a gray striped suiting fabric and used the long sleeves, with slits, from view B with that fabulous collar from view A.


The stripes really play up the areas of the jacket that are cut on the bias - the pockets and collar.

I'm liking the buttons I found - at Joann's of all places. I'm glad I braved the -20 degree F temps this past weekend to hit their 50% off button sale. And I freely admit it - a few of the new spring McCall's patterns came home with me also.

Not only did the color match beautifully, but the button leans more toward fashion versus function. They're a bit unusual in that they are 1/4" thick.

And I'm still using the Fabric Mart silks I purchased a while back as linings.

The matching skirt is about half-way completed. Once it's done I'll post some photos of the entire outfit and write a real review.

Only five days into the new year and I've already completed one item. Go me!

2009 year end review

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Last year just didn't feel like the year of sewing. I had many other things going on in my life that kept me away from my sewing studio - sometimes for weeks at a time.

So I was curious, just how much sewing did I accomplish in 2009?

The number

Fifty-two items were completed (not including the tutorials).

Now that may sound like a lot, but in reality that's only one item a week.

The breakdown

Aprons/crafts - 6
Coats - 2
Children's - 1
Dresses (including knit) - 9
Jackets - 8
Loungewear - 2
Pants - 2
Skirts - 7
Tops (including knit)/blouses - 15
Tutorials - 9
Vests - 1

Wow! I expected to see alot more skirts as it seems they're my go to when I need a quick sewing fix. Apparently not.

The pattern company

Burda magazine - 8
Butterick - 4
Kwik Sew - 1
McCall's - 11
New Look - 1
Simplicity - 10
Vogue - 14
Other - 1
One Yard Wonders book - 4

No surprises here as I'm not loyal to any one pattern company. I sew what catches my fancy.

The Tutorials

The golden goddess gown - an infinity dress

Barbie apron, chef hat and oven mitt

Barbie snuggie

Child's reversible apron

Man's shirt into ruffled cami

90-minute beach cover-up

Mini Christmas stocking flatwear holders

Collar stand and collar

How to miter corners

What's next?

I've also been working on a few new tutorials, as well as some items for PatternReview's refashion contest.

But before I begin the refashioning, I wanted to add some more items to my professional wardrobe. My first completed garment is a lined jacket - McCall's 5815 and the skirt from McCall's 5894.

Photos tomorrow.

Sewing interruped for special birthday wishes

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If you've been reading my blog for awhile this photo might look familiar. That's because it's my daughter's birthday and I love to share her birth story. I've shared before, but I'm doing it again.

See that itty bitty baby? That's her only a few days old. You see she preferred January to April as her birthday month and entered this world prematurely.

At birth this little fighter weighed in at 2 lbs but her weight soon dropped to 1-1/2 lbs. With every passing day her chances of survival increased and we rejoiced, along with the ICU nurses whose hearts she had stolen.

She stole my heart too.

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Back to sewing posts tomorrow...