Burda Style #112 skirt with diagonal front pleat

Like many of you, when my December Burda Style magazine arrived, I knew this skirt - number 112 - would be one of the first items I would sew.

Not only because I like pencil skirts, but because I was intrigued by the front diagonal pleat that gives the skirt just a little something extra.

The skirt itself it a fairly quick project to sew, and fortunately, you should be able to sew it without much need to reference the Burda written instructions.

My first step, after tracing the pattern and remembering to add seam allowances - yea!, was to play with the pattern pieces so I would understand how the buttonholes and buttons worked to create that diagonal pleat.

I have to admit it took me a few tries as I kept folding the pleat backwards. Once I had it figured out I carefully marked all of the buttonholes and foldlines on the waistband and began sewing.

There are three buttonholes sewn onto the waistband, but only two buttons are needed. That's because two of the buttonholes will line up with another another when the band is folded acting like one buttonhole. They are used for the button that shows on the front of the skirt.

The other buttonhole is also in the waistband, but is not visible from the front. It ends up behind the pleated portion of the waistband and is used to secure the back section of the pleat in place with the second button that is sewn on the waistband.

Here's a photo to help you visualize. The button on the left in this photo, is sewn to the portion of the waistband that is behind the buttonhole.

That pleat is then folded over and attached to the button on the right in this photo.

And here is the finished skirt! I'll post a photo of the skirt being worn as I think it's a slenderizing silhouette. I was a bit concerned that the pleat might not lay properly creating a pooch in an area where most of us wouldn't want it, but I didn't find that to be the case.

The fabric was purchased from SR Harris recently (remember the 45 minute stash building excursion?). It is a lightweight black pinstripe wool that drapes beautifully.

I wanted to line this skirt, but couldn't wrap my brain around how to do so without adding unneeded bulk at that pleat. So I left it unlined. However, when I read Carolyn's post last night about this skirt, I had a "duh" moment when I read Marji's comment about underlining. It's the second comment in this post. By that time this skirt was already completed, but I will keep the underlining in mind for the next version.

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Chilly weather ahead - McCall's 5987 coat pattern review

We've been blessed with quite mild weather so far this fall season. Mild enough that we do not yet have snow on the ground, nor have we had to break out the heavy wool coats, leather gloves and winter boots.

This coat -McCall's 5987 - is perfect for this mild weather. It is unlined, does not have any closures, and has an attached collar that doubles as a scarf to make a fashion statement.

The collar can be worn down, tied in front or tossed over one shoulder. With no front closure, I find tying the scarf helps keep the coat closed

While the coat went together very quickly (there are only six pattern pieces and it is unlined) I found it to run large. This coat is a size 12 with no pattern adjustments and I found it to be too big. If I sewed another one for myself I would go down one size. If you're thinking about sewing this I'd suggest measuring the pattern first, something I did not do.

The fabric was a lovely wool that had been in a wool bundle ordered from Fabric Mart. Oh, how I hope they do wool bundles again! This particular piece I remember pulling out and thinking "oh shoot, that color looks horrible on me. I'll never use this one." Only to pull it out when I saw this pattern realizing it was the perfect weight and the color would be just fine for a coat.

There are pockets in the side seams. The cutting directions have you cut these out of the coat fabric. I choose lining fabric to eliminate bulk.

All edges of the coat are finished with 5/8" narrow hem. This was the part I dreaded most, but I found the fabric I used pressed beautifully making this step a breeze!

And of course there are corners on the collar and front edges where I mitered the corners using this technique.

I also attached the collar to the neck edge slightly different than they way the pattern instructions are written. Once I sewed the collar to the neck edge (right sides up) I carefully trimmed away part of the coat neck edge seam allowance.

By eliminating that extra bulk I was able to easily turn under the edge of the seam and top stitch it in place.

Here's a view of the collar where it is attached to the center back neck of the coat. The center back seam in the collar is finished by turning under 1/4" on the edges and top stitching in place.

Even though this coat is rather large on me, I find the overall design to be stylish and a great alternative to a fleece or jean jacket when running errands on the weekend.

Overall it's a super quick, stylish coat. Sew it now while the silhouette is still popular.

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Simplicity 2501 - another one for the Month of Tops sew along

I've been participating in the Month of Tops sew-along. Well, more accurately, I signed up to participate in the MOT sew-along but haven't been too active in actually sewing any tops.

However, I did manage a sew a couple and I still have a few more days before the end of the month. This is one I completed last week.

It's Simplicity 2501, a top with separate pattern pieces for B, C, D cup sizes. I gotta tell ya, even though it really only saves me five or ten minutes, I love not having to do an FBA on a pattern. Does anyone else feel that way?

The skirt shown is my new little black skirt from McCall's 5984.

This particular top is view D with the collar from view C. While I do like tie collars (as shown on view D) I liked the trendiness of the faux bow collar. The collar is a wide round collar (think large peter pan collar) that is not sewn to the front neck edge. The loose ends of the collar are inserted into the attached loops forming the "bows". Simple huh?

The sleeves on this version are elbow length, gathered at the sleeve cap as well as the center length of the sleeve. I used a lightweight fabric that provided slight width to the shoulder area without being overpowering. Of course, you need to keep in mind that I have narrow shoulders and a more defined shoulder area works well for me. If I'd have chosen a crisper fabric it could easily have resulted in a dated 80s looking shoulder.

The polyester fabric was in my stash purchased for who-know-what from the local Hancock Fabrics store a year or so ago. I choose it for this top because 1) it was lightweight, 2) it's striped pattern would look interesting on the waistband and collar, and 3) it has purple and black in it.

So, one more stash pattern used.

More stash fabric out of the closet.

And another addition to the Month-of-Tops sew-along.













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McCall's 5984 - "The Perfect Wardrobe" jacket

After sewing the perfect little black skirt - and it appears most of you agree that a LBS is a must-have addition in your wardrobe - I moved onto the jacket from this Palmer/Pletsch "perfect wardrobe" pattern. The pattern, McCall's 5984, is a fairly new offering.

I gotta stop here and just mention what a fan I am of the Palmer/Pletsch patterns. Everyone that I've sewn I've met with success. They appear to be well drafted and the instructions are exceptional.

This pattern is no exception. The fully lined jacket has a slight swing shape and features front seam pockets, a collar that can be worn up or down, two piece sleeves and a center back pleat. Large snaps are used for the closures.

Collar worn open

And for those of you who prefer garments displayed on a dress form, here is the jacket with the collar open on GiGi.

Collar worn up

I didn't expect to like the collar up, so I didn't add the upper snap. However, after trying it, I've changed my mind. I think it would be fabulous to have the collar up on those days when the office is a bit on the chilly side.

Here is the jacket with the collar up shown on GiGi.

Center back pleat and two piece sleeves

Center back pleat shown on GiGi

Side front seam pockets, with welts.

Since I was too lazy didn't want to try and match the plaid on the welts, I cut them diagonally instead.

This is not the quickest jacket to sew, and I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a beginner - unless you have a lot of patience and like challenges - but all the pieces went together nicely and the instructions were fabulous.

There were a few adjustments I made to the pattern - a small FBA, a forward shoulder adjustment, and I shortened the sleeves by an inch. All of these are adjustments I do on almost everything I sew. I also added 1/4" shoulder pads, rather than 1/2" shoulder pads. The shoulder pads are listed as optional.

I do wish I had used a nicer fabric for the jacket. I choose a lightweight suiting from Hancock Fabrics. It's a gray and black plaid with a silver thread running through out. I wanted lightweight so the jacket would have a bit of movement, but oh my did this fabric ravel!

The jacket is fully lined and instructions are given to bag the lining. Since I usually forget how to bag a lining, I really appreciated having that information right at my finger tips. I also liked how the center back pleat - both the jacket and the lining - are not attached to the collar until after the lining is added. It makes for a really nice finish inside.

Snap size is not specified on the pattern envelope - it only says five large snaps - so you get to decide what you consider large. I just used what I had on hand and they might be just a smidge too large.

Be sure to check out the latest issue of Fashion for Real People published online by Palmer/Pletsch. In it you'll see both Pati Palmer and Marta Alto wearing versions of this jacket. Oh, be sure to check out page 25 (it's in the third section) for a photo of the lovely Cennetta of the blog The Mahogony Stylist. You'll have to read the newsletter to find out why she was included.

So anyway, back to the pattern. I love, love, love the skirt and definitely see more of these in my future. I wasn't sure if I would care for the jacket or not, as I typically wear more structured clothing, but I'm thinking one more in a bright solid color will be a great addition for the remainder of the winter season.

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Do you have a LBS? (A little black skirt)

I'm sure you've heard of the LBD - the little black dress - and that every woman should have one in her wardrobe. But what about the little black skirt (LBS)? I think every woman should have at least one of these in her wardrobe also.

In my closet there currently resides three little black skirts - two that I sewed and one purchased at TJ Maxx.

The latest little black skirt is this one sewn using McCall's 5984, bringing my total of black skirts up to four.

This pattern is a great basic skirt. I personally prefer contour yokes to waistbands, which is why I decided to sew this one to begin with. The skirt is slightly tapered, hits just above the knee, and has a walking slit in the center back.

The one thing this skirt didn't have was a lining. So I added one. It was a good use for some ugly silky fabric that's been hiding away in the stash for a few years.

I used the front and back skirt pieces as my pattern and sewed the the lining to the yoke facing. The lining is hand sewn in place around the walking slit.

Speaking of back slits...that back slit is another place to use the mitered corner technique I used on the aprons I've been sewing.

The fabric is a lightweight, tightly woven wool purchased during my 45-minute fabric buying excursion to SR Harris. Since the skirt only requires one yard of fabric (60" wide) I have enough left over for both a jacket and pants.

I've also completed the jacket from this pattern, which I'll share with you tomorrow.

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One Yard Wonders Kitschy Kitchen Apron

One Yard Wonders Kitschy Kitchen Apron
Originally uploaded by Sharon Sews

Project number three from the One Yard Wonders book - the Kitschy Kitchen Apron.

Another cute, yet easy-to-sew, apron. This one was sewn from an Amy Butler print and trimmed with an odd yellow colored lace trim purchased on clearance at Hancock Fabrics. The lace didn't match the fabric I had intended it for, so I was delighted that it coordinated with this fabric perfectly.

This project was designed by Mother's Apron Strings, a mother/daughter trio (no blog listed in the book.) Pin It

One Yard Wonders planner sleeve

One Yard Wonders planner sleeve
Originally uploaded by Sharon Sews

My second project from the newly released One Yard Wonders book.

I have not yet received my comp copy from the publisher (we've been assured they're on their way...apparently you all have made this book a very popular item!) but I did purchase a copy that I plan to give as a gift.

The nice spiral binding means I could peek at the book, and even sew a project or two, without it appearing that the book was used. Unless, of course, the intended recipient is reading this blog. In that case, well, sorry!

Anyway, the second project I choose was this planner sleeve. Even though I don't own a planner. I figured it would be a good way to carry my camera with me when I'm snoop shopping ... much more stylish than the plastic sandwich bag I currently carry it in wouldn't you say?

But maybe I'll use it to carry a small notebook and pen as suggested in the book. .I don't know about you, but it seems I'm always digging in my purse for paper to write on.

Oh what the heck. I'll just sew another one. After all, I spent less than an hour creating this cute little sleeve.

By the way, this was designed by Helen Ringrose, of the Sew Stylish blog. Pin It

I think I'm in love - or - why did I wait so long to sew this Burda dress?

Isn't it fabulous? The draping and the shaping add up to one stunningly sexy dress. This is one of those sewing projects that you try on and go "wow...this looks good."

The dress is #103 from the February 2008 issue of Burda World of Fashion. As soon as I saw it in the magazine I knew I wanted to sew one for myself.

In fact, I traced the pattern pieces within days of receiving the magazine. And promptly stuffed them into an envelope to await just the right piece of fabric.

I wasn't the only one enthralled with the dress, and reviews for the dress (called the "Tippi Hedren" dress) started popping up over at Pattern Review. One thing some of the reviewers noted was the confusing directions for sewing the twist drape front portion of the dress. Not too surprising considering BWOF is known for their lack of clear sewing instructions.

As I was searching my patterns recently for a dress to sew with one of the knits I purchased during my recent 45-minute mad dash inside SR Harris, I rediscovered this dress pattern traced and ready to go.

Only one little problem. As soon as my scissors snipped the very last pattern piece I remembered that at one point I had been tracing BWOF patterns not realizing that seam allowances needed to be added. I had a sinking feeling that this was one of those patterns. Sure enough, it was.

*Sigh* Hoping for the best, I proceeded to sew the dress together using narrow serged seams and eliminating the back darts. It fits, but it's quite form fitting. This is one dress that will definitely not be making an appearance at the office.

As far as that confusing front twist drape? I actually didn't find it that difficult. I had more trouble understanding why the right front drape should not be sewn to the waist seam. Turns out it is part of the front drape, which wasn't clear to me when I began. The twist drape portion is a bit time consuming, and you do need to make sure you have all the numbers and lines marked, but if you follow the instructions it will work.

My secret? I pinned and basted everything to determine if it was put together correctly before sewing any permanent seam.

My only complaint with the pattern is that I waited so long to sew it up!

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Back to basics - how to sew a mitered corner hem

"Hmmmm, let me see. Well, that day is Christmas. You know, it's only six weeks away."

That's what I heard from the receptionist the other day when I called to schedule an appointment for six weeks out.

"Six weeks!" I thought to myself "Uh, oh. I better get busy."

And I am.

A few of the items I've been sewing require mitered corners on the hem. As I was doing them, I thought it would be a good time for a back to basics on mitering a corner.

How to sew a mitered corner hem

1) Finish the raw edges of your fabric. Turn both sides to the wrong side the desired hem amount and press. My example has one inch hem.s

2) Open out the edges you just pressed. Fold the corner up aligning the edge where the creased lines meet. Press.

3) Unfold the corner. Fold the fabric diagonally, right sides together, matching the edges.

4) Stitch along the diagonal press line you created in step 2.

5) Trim the seam to 1/4", tapering at the corner to reduce bulk.

6) Press the seam open.

7) Turn the corner right side out and press.

See how easy that is? And it makes for a nice and neat corner edge.

I no longer remember when or where I first read about this finish, but I do know you can find instructions to miter corners in nearly any sewing reference book you may have on hand.

Do you use this technique or do you have another favorite way of mitering your corners? Pin It

Comfy and cozy - Vogue 8580 knit tunic

Recently I found myself in need of some loose fitting, super comfy, kick around at home clothes. Now I bet you have a decent supply of those types of garments, right?

Well, if you look into my closet you will find quite a few dresses, nice tailored blouses, dozens of dress pants and skirts, as well as jackets and blazers. But not too many I-want-to-be-comfy-and-I'm-not-leaving-the-house-so-it-doesn't-have-to-be-gorgeous clothes.

That's where Vogue 8580 entered the picture. Loose, tunic knit style top.

Perfect! Or so I thought. It's actually meh.

It's one of those patterns that, as you're sewing the pieces together you ask yourself "and I spent $3.99 on this because....?" and find you really don't have an answer.

That's because the design is so simple, and has so few pieces, that most of you could easily 1) draft it yourself or 2) morph together other pattern pieces to create it.

However, that's beside the point. Let me give you my thoughts on the finished tunic sewn from this pattern.

H.U.G.E. amount of ease.

That about sums it up. *LOL*

All right, I'll tell you more.

First of all, it really does have a huge amount of ease built into the design.

For example, finished hip for a small measures about 49-1/2". Now compare that to the hip measurement for a small, which is 34-1/2". See what I mean? Alot of ease for a knit garment.

It's also quite long. I didn't bother to fit as I sewed and the finished tunic could easily be worn as a dress. Which, just to set the record straight, I will not be doing.

This tunic is a size small.

I also thought the under bust band was odd. The band is sewn on separately, with an opening at the center front to insert the elastic. Four inches at the center front are left unelasticized. The band is quite wide - about 2" when completed. Which works if you have 2" elastic, which I did not. I had 1-1/2" elastic which causes the band to not lay as nicely as it could.

The knit I used is a soft cotton blend that feels almost like a very light weight sweatshirt. It's almost too heavy for this design, so keep your fabric choice in mind when sewing this pattern.

The neckline probably would not have needed any stabilization, but I didn't want to take any chances.

I sewed a strip of stay tape to the wrong side of the neck edge.

Turned the neck edge to the wrong side and top stitched in place.

And promptly discovered that I somehow had managed to sew one neck edge curved and on straight *LOL* So it looks like it's back to sewing machine for me.

Talk to you later! Pin It

One Yard Wonders 30 minute cami turned lace tunic

Even though I am still eagerly awaiting my copy of the book One Yard Wonders, I knew I could still sew something from the book. As long as I choose one of the two projects I submitted that is. :-)

Ta-da! May I present the OYW 30 minute cami turned lace tunic. (I'm not sure if that's what it's called in the book or not, but 30 minute cami was the working title.) This tunic is what I had planned to wear if I had been able to attend the release party. With a jacket of course. I mean c'mon, it's November --- and chilly.

The fabric is a rayon lace purchased a few years ago from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It was marked dry clean only but I tossed it in the washer on a delicate cycle to see what would happen. The washing made it very soft and flowy. The lining is a silk jersey knit chosen for the color - not so great against my face, but perfect for lining this tunic.

I submitted the simple cami project remembering how much I loved sewing and wearing those types of tops in the early 80s. I also hoped that it would be used as a starting point for some creativity.

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To turn the cami into a lace tunic, I made some very simple changes to the pattern and instruction. Let me walk you through them. Please note that this lace tunic does take more than one yard of fabric. In fact, I used so I could match the lace pattern and have the scallops along the hemline.

1) Lengthen the cami pattern to your desired tunic length. I played with the edge of the lace fabric to determine where it would look best on me before deciding to make the tunic 20" long. I also added width to the lower edge giving me more room in the hip area.

2) Cut front and back from lace fabric. In retrospect I should have cut these out single layer because I was working with lace that had a distinctive pattern and I managed to get the pattern off slightly. You, of course, will not make that same mistake!

3) Cut a front and back from a contrast lining if using lace fabric. Unless you're bolder than I that is. I cut the lining 1-1/2" shorter than the tunic and hemmed it just by serging the bottom edge.

4) Sew the side seams in the lace tunic as well as the lining tunic. You'll now have two tunics - one lace, one lining. Place the lining inside the lace matching the upper edges; baste together.

5) If you want shoulder straps (like I do so I don't need to purchase a strapless bra) you will want to measure how long you will need your strap. Measure from the top front edge, over your shoulder, to the back top edge. The finished length of my strap was 14" (This included 1" seam allowance for sewing to the top of the tunic.)

6) Cut four shoulder straps 3-1/2" wide by 14" long (or whatever measurement you came up with in step five.) Two from the lace, two from the lining.

7) Turn and press after sewing the lace and lining straps together. (Place one lining strap to one lace strap, wrong side together, and sew the the long edges together using a 1/2" seam allowance.)

8) Pin the straps 5" in from the side seams on the front, and 5" to 6" in from the side seam on the back. Try on and adjust if necessary. Baste in place.

9) Sew the elastic casing. Using 1/2" bias tape, sew the tape to the top edge of the tunic and sew in place using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim the excess top fabric. Turn tape to the wrong side of tunic and press.

10) Make the casing for the elastic. Separate the lace and lining sections. Sew the tape along the bottom edge, securing only to the lining fabric, to create the casing. Be sure to leave an opening at one side seam to insert the elastic.

11) Insert elastic. Measure a piece of 1/4" wide elastic to fit comfortably around your upper chest. Cut and insert into the casing. Secure ends of the elastic together. Sew the opening in the casing closed.

12) Add thread loops. Thread loops, using a coordinating thread, were added to hold any belt or ribbon that might be worn below the bust.

Wear the lace tunic loose...

...belted at the waist...

...belted under the bust...

...or add a ribbon and bow.

As you can see, the finished lace tunic appears quite different than the 30-minute cami sample shown in the book.

Stay tuned, as I have a few more variations completed that I'll share with you. Pin It