You're gonna be jealous...

How to Draft Basic Patterns: second edition by Ernestine Kopp, Vittorina Rolfo & Beatrice Zelin

Grading Techniques for Modern Design by Jeanne Price & Bernard Zamkoff

I hear ya. You're thinking "What's so special about these? They're just your basic pre-1980 pattern design and pattern grading books." Well let me tell explain - 15 cents each in the discount book bin at the local Goodwill store.

Admit it, you're just a wee bit jealous aren't you? Pin It

Weekend wrapup - Fashion in the Sky

Sewing in the studio this past weekend was once again limited to alterations. I do believe I'm now done. At least until Thursday when I'll have a fitting for what I hope will be a simple hemming of a dress. A friend from church helped me with some work stuff and in return I offered her my sewing services.

Although I wasn't able to spend much time devoted to sewing, I did have a chance to attend a fun fashion show Saturday evening. The show, "Fashion in the Sky", was part of this year's MN Fashion Week fall 2009.

So much fun! I had forgotten how much I enjoy the atmosphere of a choreographed fashion show! The last fashion show I attended (other than the historical society's Retro Rama) was in the late 70s or early 80s. I don't recall too much about it except that it was put on by Ebony magazine with an elegant atmosphere and gorgeous fashions.

Last night's event was held on a rooftop terrace in St. Paul, which could be quite risky weather-wise the end of September in Minnesota. Fortunately it was a beautiful fall evening, perfect for a party under the stars. The atmosphere was festive, the music throbbing, the lighting artistic, and the hors d'oeuvres delicious. All in the company of a fashionista friend.

The fashions, from a number of St. Paul boutiques including Karma, Picky Girl, Stephanie's, Flirt, Ecotique, and Details Style Lab for Men, were interesting.

I gotta admit that I found the men's portion a bit silly. Every man came out barefoot, wearing jeans or casual pants and a button front shirt. As they walked the runway they removed the button front shirt, revealing a t-shirt, which was also removed revealing their bare chests. Some of the younger woman went wild, but I couldn't help thinking "is this a Chippendale show or a fashion show?" Although to be fair they did have woman modeling lingerie from Flirt.

With the runway not well light it was difficult to see the details but I was still able to come away with a few good ideas. This show was one of the last events for the fashion week and next year I'll need to remember to block my calendar a bit earlier so I can partake in more of the festivities.



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Opinions please

I purchased this silk fabric about 15 years ago. While I was drawn to the texture and colors, I didn't know what to do with it then and I don't know what to do with it now.

Here's where I need your opinion. I think it's time to finally use the fabric but can't decide what to sew out of it. A jacket perhaps? Something with simple lines. Perhaps this 80s Vogue pattern (by the way, it came from Pattern Rescue) but would combining 15 year old fabric with a 20 year old pattern scream DATED and OUT OF FASHION?

I know how creative you all are so bring it.

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Jack Sparrow face painting tutorial

Just in time for Halloween - a short video from Disney showing how to paint a Jack Sparrow pirate face.





Face painting is an easy - and safe - way for your child to disguise their face for Halloween festivities.

If you've never tried it before you might find the blog "How to Face Paint" helpful. (That's where I saw the tute for the Jack Sparrow face.)

Please remember not to use craft paints for face painting - be sure to only use paints and glitter that designed for face painting. Pin It

Random Dozen Meme

I should be sewing.

But I'm feeling a bit tired and I don't think it's a good idea to work on someone's wedding gown when I'm not bright and chipper. So rather than sew (and make a mistake) tonight I'm participating in a fun random dozen meme from Linda at 2nd Cup of Coffee.

1. Please share one middle school memory. It can be good, bad, ugly, funny. Pictures or words, I don't care, just share.
Ha! That's easy! I met my hubby in 9th grade. He asked me to a football game. I was stunned that the cutest boy in school would ask me out and he was stunned that "the cutest girl in school would go out with him" (his words, not mine) Obviously it was love at first sight and 25 years later we finally realized it and got married :-)

2. What's your favorite Beatles song?
At the risk of upsetting a dear friend, who is crazy about the Beatles (one in particular, but I won't share all her secrets) I admit I don't have a fave. Although I do remember buying the 45 single "Give Peace a Chance" when I was a kid.

3. If I asked you to describe your most comfortable outfit, what would it be?
Yoga pants and a workout tee.

4. Would you rather host a party or be a guest?
Host it! And it will be a theme party. With lots of yummy food. And costumes. And 70s disco music.

5. Do you think we will move completely from traditional books to digital ones, and if we do, are you OK with that?
Nooooo! Nothing can replace reading a book (that you hold in your hands) while snuggled in a great big comfy chair with a big cup of hot chocolate in the winter.

6. Do you learn best by reading, listening or experiencing?
Experiencing.

7. If you are (or when you were) single, what is the kiss of death for you concerning the opposite sex? (That is, what is one trait or behavior or habit or anything at all that immediately turns you off from considering that person a potential match for you?)
Giving me a cupcake pan as a Christmas gift.Now I got nothing against cupcake pans. If you want to back cupcakes you need a cupcake pan. But I was really hoping for something more romantic, considering we'd been dating for quite some time. Needless to say, that guy's gone.

8. Snacks. Salty or sweet?
Salty. I kicked the sweet and sugar habit about four months ago and I ain't never going back. But there was a time when I would have said sweet. As in M&Ms. Mine. All mine. The entire bag.

9. Look around you in a four foot radius. What object is around you that you didn't realize was there or forgot was there? How long has it been there?
An instructional DVD on how to face paint with a wonder palette! I was wondering where that was. I bought the wonder palette paints last spring so the DVD's been there a while. You know, I really should get back to face painting.

10. What is your favorite Tom Cruise movie? The bartender one. What the heck was the name of that one? Only because I brought my daughter to the movie with me and they thought I was her older sister and weren't going to let me take her into an R rated movie. Whoo-hoo! It was fun looking really young. And said daughter now complains that people think she's so much younger than she is.

11. You buy a bottle of shampoo and discover that you don't like what it does to your hair at all. What do you do with that full bottle? tuck it in the back of the linen closet as a "back up" and promptly forget about it.

12. Your favorite Fall comfort food? (Last week it was beverage.)
Homemade apple crisp.

Done. Both the meme and my sewing break.

Tomorrow night it's back to wedding gown alterations. Pin It

Weekend wrapup: ch-ch-ch-changes

Ch-ch-ch-changes.

The alteration kind that is.

The oh-this-isn't-much-fun kind of alterations.

You know the type.

A bit tedious, but all necessary to achieve a better fit in a store bought garment.

So what did I work on?

Move a button on a new pair of men's pants.

Shorten sleeves on a denim jacket. This particular denim jacket sleeves had decorative zippers at the hem which needed to be removed and reinserted. Ugh. The zipper tape raveled something fierce when I removed the zippers. Since the zipper tape was exposed on the inside I had to get creative. I ended up binding the zipper edges in a bright bias tape to coordinate with the Amy Butler print I used for the inside facing. In hindsight it would have been easier to shorten the sleeves by doing multiple decorative tucks - or something like that.

Let out a waistband on a pair of women's dress pants. This one is only partially completed but is going quickly. It's a pair I found at a thrift shop. A gorgeous tan lightweight wool, fully lined, flat front pants from Talbots that appeared to have been worn very seldom. Fortunately there were two back darts and I only need to add less than an inch.

Take in the bodice of a wedding dress. I say dress rather than gown because it is more casual than some wedding gowns I've worked on. However that seems to be the trend lately isn't it? This one went so quickly I could hardly believe it! It's hand basted and waiting for tomorrow's fitting before I proceed with the final stitching.

Next up?

Add ruching to the bodice of a wedding gown. This gown is quite stunning. Simple yet stunning. The dress is a simple strapless gown, with allover lace sprinkled with sequins. She will look like she is shimmering when she wears this. All this bride wanted was a but of ruching added to the center front and something decorative to the back. Small, simple and elegant. The ruching I've got covered. I'm still playing with ideas for the back.

Shorten sleeves on women's jacket. I found a great basic Chadwick'swool jacket at Tuesday Morning of all places. For only $9.99. But the sleeves need to be shortened slightly. I admit that sometimes I put my own alterations off while I work on other things, but not this time. It's right there in my line-up.

Hemming. Hemming. Hemming. A pair of men's pants, two pair of women's pants, and two dresses.

Sometimes I take my sewing gift for granted and forget that what I consider simple can be daughting to someone else. I'm grateful that I have the ability to do alterations and help out my friends.

What about you? Do you do alterations? If so, do you enjoy doing them? Pin It

A short and black golden goddess gown - the Donna Karan Infinity dress

DK Infinity Dress
Originally uploaded by Sharon Sews

Really? $895?

I think I'll just sew the Golden Goddess Gown in a gorgeous black knit and cut it off at the knee. With even more ways to wear the dress!

Actually, this looks like it might have some pleating going on in the front? Can't tell for sure. I'll have to try and find this online.

Anyway, this was in MORE magazine, October 2009 issue, page 32, under the Now! section. Pin It

Gray and black - the antidote to too much shine

After the shiny jacket incident, (thanks for your comments and suggestions...I'm pondering whether or not to change the buttons, but think I need to wear it once to decide if I think I can pull it off or not.) I'm switching gears.

I need to add something nice and subdued to my fall wardrobe and this Vogue vest pattern (8599) by Marcy Tilton is just the thing. I've never sewn a Marcy Tilton design as I find them a bit too dramatic for my lifestyle. However, I like the the subtle shaping - three waist darts in front, two waist darts in back, and side princess seaming of this design.

What really drew me to the pattern was the face framing collar highlighted with lace. The nice feminine touch to a basic gray vest.

The fabric I'm using is a gray stretch woven that was previously used for a Burda pencil skirt (BWOF, February 2008, number 111). Sadly, that skirt had to be donated as I cut and sewed the skirt before realizing that seam allowances need to be added when tracing BWOF patterns.

So if you're thrift shopping and find a great stretch skirt featuring highlighted bands criss-crossed in front, please know that it was with great reluctance the skirt was donated and I'm happy it found a new home. Pin It

Ooooo, shiny! Metallic linen jacket sewn from Simplicity 2701

I love, love, love the first version of Simplicity 2701 that I sewed last March. (See blog post here.)

I loved it so much so that I immediately cut out another to sew from a metallic linen purchased from Emma One Sock. And packed it away after realizing I didn't have matching thread or a button that would work.

I mean, what do you choose when your fabric at times appears golden, other times pink, and yet other times burgundy? I ended up choosing burgundy thread as it blended in the best, but finding a button that worked took more time. I thought for sure I had found the perfect button at Treadle Yard Goods, but after bringing it home and placing it on the fabric I wasn't sure so I purchased another button at Joann's.

Left button from Treadle Yard Goods, right button from Joann's

Close up of button

I ended up using the one from Joann's, which has an interesting design on it, but after seeing the jacket complete it doesn't work. First of all, it's too heavy for the fabric and pulls slightly downward. Secondly, the color is too deep. Up close it works, but from a distance your eye is drawn to the button, which would work if the button was a one-of-a-kind showcase button, but this isn't.

Inside seam finish

Since the jacket is designed to be unlined, and I wanted it unlined so the linen would act like linen, I once again did a Hong Kong finish on the seams, this time using a pink lining that I had on hand.

Back view of jacket

Here's the back view. Notice how your eye goes immediately to the dark button. Unless of course you're distracted by the wrinkly characteristic of the linen. Which doesn't bother me - I like it - but I know it drives some people nuts. I will admit, this piece really does wrinkle like crazy.

So here it is. A metallic linen jacket using Simplicity 2701. No collar this time as I didn't have enough fabric. I also choose to add the pleated patch pockets this time just for a slightly different look.

Simplicity 2701 jacket sewn from metallic linen

Gotta tell ya. I still love my first one much, much more. I'm just not sure about this one. While I own the perfect pants to pair it with, I don't know if I can actually bring myself to wear it. I feel like it's a mix between a sci-fi movie costume and a flashback to Dynasty duds. I mean, this thing is bright. (Um, duh, it's metallic.)

Maybe I should have chosen to sew a blouse like Linda did, rather than a jacket. I dunno. I'll have to wear it once before I make my final thumbs up or thumbs down determination.

Fabric choices aside, I still think this is one great jacket pattern. Pin It

Flashback Friday - 1979 and a preschooler's puffy jacket

There's something to be said about new sewers. While some are quite content and comfortable steadily progressing to more and more difficult projects, others jump right in with little thought given to the complexity of the item they've chosen to sew.

I was in the latter group. Perhaps it was my personality, or perhaps it was because I was self-taught and thus had no "rules" to follow. Whatever the reason, there were times in my life when I dove in one hundred percent confident whatever I choose to sew would not only be easy, but it would look professional and boutique worthy.

Such was the story behind this smiling little guy's puffy jacket. During one of my weekly journeys to the local fabric store, I came across this pattern in the catalog, McCall's 6784.

It was winter and my little guy needed a jacket. While I didn't have money for a new jacket, I did have enough for a pattern, fabric and a zipper. Ha! Problem solved.

Except that I'd never sewn an outdoor jacket before. Nor had I ever inserted a separating zipper before. Or work with double-sided quilted fabric.

Sigh...

Do you have projects in your life that you can *still* recall the frustration? This was one of those. If you look closely you'll notice that their is no collar on the jacket. That's because I could not, no matter what, figure out how to get the collar on with that darn quilted fabric. So it remained off and I simply turned the edges under and top stitched. So much for a professional and boutique worthy end product *LOL*

Bless his little heart, he wore his green jacket proudly just because his mommy made it especially for him. Pin It

Celebrate National Sewing Month with a free sewing eBook from FaveCrafts.com

Love to sew? check

Love pincushions, pillows and purses? check

Love free patterns? check

Then you'll want to head on over to FaveCrafts to download a free copy of their Sewing for Beginners eBook.


Inside the 57 page eBook you'll find 20 sewing projects including pincushions, pillows, purses, bags, a jewelry pouch and an apron. There's even embellishment and home decor ideas.

You might even find a name or two that you recognize, such as Stacy, from Stacy Sews, whose adorable felt donut pincushion is among the projects.

While you're at FaveCrafts, be sure to browse the hundreds of free projects and tutorials. You just might be surprised at how quickly time flies while you're clicking link after link gathering great ideas. Since mixed media is another one of my fascinations, I'm going to try this enchanted picture frame project.

Of course, while you're there don't forget to download the eBook. Did I mention it was free?




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The Perfect Knit Dress take two - or - McCalls 5974 view D review

Everything I wrote about this dress pattern in my blog post yesterday still holds true. This really is a great knit dress.

Fitting ease in the dress
Before I begin, let me address a question. Vicki asked if this was the perfect knit dress why the ease issue? I responded to her in the comments, but it's a great question so I'll respond here also. I think this was designed to be a looser fitting knit dress. I say that based on the intro paragraph on the instruction sheets. Pati Palmer begins by writing about how her thin daughter can wear body-hugging knits, but she cannot. At the end of that paragraph Pati Palmer says "And, if you follow our fit instructions, you will make the dress loose enough to also help you in the camouflage department!"

Again, I think ease is a personal preference. Some might sew this dress in their "normal" size and be pleased while others, like myself, might decide they want it just a tiny bit tighter.

McCall's 5974 View D
Yesterday I wrote about McCall's 5974 View B, the dress with the scoop neck, midriff band and no tie. As promised, here are my thoughts on View D, the dress with the fabulous tie.

Alterations
I did the same alterations for View D as I did for View B. A small (3/8") FBA, a forward shoulder adjustment, a sway back adjustment and a small (less than 1/4") round back adjustment. I also needed to shorten the long sleeves by two inches but that's pretty typical of everything I sew.

Fabric
A wonderful knit that my blog friend Gaylen picked up for me. How long ago was it anyway? I don't remember. She, of course, sewed hers up right away while I tucked mine away and promptly forgot about it. Until I saw this pattern in the new McCall's pattern catalog that is. This knit was made for this pattern - the right weight, the right drape, and the right print.

Sewing the dress
The construction is almost identical to View B, so if you want the details and tips, check out yesterday's post under "Sewing the dress".

What's different about this view, is that this dress features a faux wrap front and ties. The center edges of the bodice are matched, right over left, and basted together before sewing to the band.

To finish the neckline I serged clear elastic to the inside of the neck edge, turned the edge to the inside, and stitched in place.

The tie is sewn into the side seam. The tie is long, measuring about 44" or so from each side seam. It's about 10" wide where it joins the side seams and tapers down to a couple inches near the end.

Here you can see the tie attached to the side seams before it is tied.

The ties cross in front, as shown here, cross again in back, ending up being tied in a knot in the front.

The design of the neckline, combined with the clear elastic finish, make the vee stay where it belongs no matter how I move around.

I said this before and I'll say it again. Move over McCall's 5752. There's a new "perfect knit dress" kid in town and she's called McCall's 5974.

By the way, did anyone notice the purple shoes?

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The Perfect Knit Dress has met its match - or - McCalls 5974 review

Move over McCall's 5752. There's a new "perfect knit dress" kid in town and she's called McCall's 5974.

Back in November I gave McCall's 5752 a "two thumbs up" and said it was indeed the perfect knit dress. But after sewing both view B and view D from this new pattern (McCall's 5974), I must say, it is now the reigning champ.

I sewed view D first - the v-neck with the big wrap tie - and it's fantabulistic. I then moved onto view B so I could compare the two. Another winner. (But just between us? I like the one with the tie belt the best.)

Tonight's review is for view B. It is the black dress on the cover of the envelope.

(photo from McCallpattern.com)

The entire dress took less than three hours, including altering the pattern, cutting it out, sewing the dress and taking photographs.

Instruction sheet
The pattern instruction sheet is well written and detailed. It is sprinkled through out with Designer Tips and Pro Tips to help you with the sewing process.

The entire first two pages are filled with tissue fitting instructions as well as information and diagrams to make adjustments to your pattern. The best part? The cutting lines for the adjustments are marked on the pattern tissue, making it very easy for you to make a pattern adjustment. If you're not comfortable with, say an FBA (full bust adjustment), no more guessing! Sweet.

Alterations
I did a small (3/8") FBA, a forward shoulder adjustment, a sway back adjustment and a small (less than 1/4") round back adjustment. I also needed to shorten the long sleeves by two inches but that's pretty typical of everything I sew.

Fabric
Polyester knit from JoAnn Fabrics. It has been in the stash for awhile. I've made very few fabric purchases anywhere since the beginning of the year - and it's pretty rare that I purchase fabric from JoAnn's when I do buy fabric - so it's possible it's older than six months. The colors will make for a nice transition piece as the warm weather ends and the cooler weather begins. (Which could be any day now...you think I'm joking but trust me, it could happen.)

Sewing the dress
The bodice and front skirt fullness is created with pleats and held in place by the midriff band.

The midriff band is only on the front of the dress and it is interfaced. I interfaced both the band and band facing for a bit more stability. (This is noted in the instructions as an option.)

You might want to consider adding staytape or clear elastic to the shoulder seams for stability. I added clear elastic.

I didn't follow the instructions for the neckline finish. Instead I serged clear elastic to the inside of the neckedge, turned the edge to the inside, and stitched in place.

Sew the sleeves in flat and then sew the side and underarm seams. Working with a knit you shouldn't have any problem easing those sleeves in flat.

You do not need a zipper! I have no idea why this dress was designed with a zipper. In fact, I'm going to give away a partial tip that is included in this pattern. That tips says "Don't put in a zipper unless you have to!" See? Even the designer doesn't think a zipper is necessary. Unless you're sewing this dress in a very firm knit I doubt you'll need the zipper. And if you're sewing this with a very firm knit, you might not be too happy with the end result.

To hem the dress I ironed on light Steam-a-Seam on the wrong side of the dress, turned the hem up 1-1/4" (the pattern is designed for a one inch hem) and stitched in place.

I think the ease on the dress is generous - both views. I ended up taking in the center back seam - especially in the waist area - on view B as the fit was looser than I wanted. On view D I knew the tie belt would pull in the fullness so I left it as is. I may go down one size in the neck, shoulder and waist the next time I sew this pattern.

Oh yea, there will be a next time.

Be sure to come back tomorrow as I'll share my thoughts - and photos - of view D.

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