Wednesday, November 25, 2009

McCall's 5984 - "The Perfect Wardrobe" jacket

After sewing the perfect little black skirt - and it appears most of you agree that a LBS is a must-have addition in your wardrobe - I moved onto the jacket from this Palmer/Pletsch "perfect wardrobe" pattern. The pattern, McCall's 5984, is a fairly new offering.

I gotta stop here and just mention what a fan I am of the Palmer/Pletsch patterns. Everyone that I've sewn I've met with success. They appear to be well drafted and the instructions are exceptional.

This pattern is no exception. The fully lined jacket has a slight swing shape and features front seam pockets, a collar that can be worn up or down, two piece sleeves and a center back pleat. Large snaps are used for the closures.

Collar worn open
McCall's 5984 Collar open

And for those of you who prefer garments displayed on a dress form, here is the jacket with the collar open on GiGi.
McCall's 5984 Jacket

Collar worn up
McCall's 5984 MC Collar up
I didn't expect to like the collar up, so I didn't add the upper snap. However, after trying it, I've changed my mind. I think it would be fabulous to have the collar up on those days when the office is a bit on the chilly side.

Here is the jacket with the collar up shown on GiGi.
McCall's 5984 Jacket

Center back pleat and two piece sleeves
McCall's 5984 jacket back

Center back pleat shown on GiGi
McCall's 5984 Jacket

Side front seam pockets, with welts.
McCall's 5984 Jacket

Since I was too lazy didn't want to try and match the plaid on the welts, I cut them diagonally instead.

This is not the quickest jacket to sew, and I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a beginner - unless you have a lot of patience and like challenges - but all the pieces went together nicely and the instructions were fabulous.

There were a few adjustments I made to the pattern - a small FBA, a forward shoulder adjustment, and I shortened the sleeves by an inch. All of these are adjustments I do on almost everything I sew. I also added 1/4" shoulder pads, rather than 1/2" shoulder pads. The shoulder pads are listed as optional.

I do wish I had used a nicer fabric for the jacket. I choose a lightweight suiting from Hancock Fabrics. It's a gray and black plaid with a silver thread running through out. I wanted lightweight so the jacket would have a bit of movement, but oh my did this fabric ravel!

The jacket is fully lined and instructions are given to bag the lining. Since I usually forget how to bag a lining, I really appreciated having that information right at my finger tips. I also liked how the center back pleat - both the jacket and the lining - are not attached to the collar until after the lining is added. It makes for a really nice finish inside.

Snap size is not specified on the pattern envelope - it only says five large snaps - so you get to decide what you consider large. I just used what I had on hand and they might be just a smidge too large.

Be sure to check out the latest issue of Fashion for Real People published online by Palmer/Pletsch. In it you'll see both Pati Palmer and Marta Alto wearing versions of this jacket. Oh, be sure to check out page 25 (it's in the third section) for a photo of the lovely Cennetta of the blog The Mahogony Stylist. You'll have to read the newsletter to find out why she was included.

So anyway, back to the pattern. I love, love, love the skirt and definitely see more of these in my future. I wasn't sure if I would care for the jacket or not, as I typically wear more structured clothing, but I'm thinking one more in a bright solid color will be a great addition for the remainder of the winter season.

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  1. That's really pretty! It looks so autumn-y. :-)

  2. You really did that pattern justice - I love it.

  3. Yep - it is a perfect wardrobe jacket. Works for corporate works with jeans. I love it.

  4. It's just darling! And I totally would have done the welts on the bias too. It's not laziness, it's a choice! :)

  5. LOVE that jacket! I really must get that pattern. I like Palmer/Pletsch patterns.

  6. Great jacket, love the back pleat. And, I have to agree, the P/P patterns are amazing and so educational!

  7. I'm loving your new jacket and all of its wonderful details! You have definitely been on a roll and are going to have some wonderful new clothes!

  8. That's a great jacket!

  9. Fantastic jacket, great new picture and header on your blog. Also, my One Yard Wonders book arrived today, I like your projects.

  10. Absolutely stunning...So cute on you

  11. The jacket looks fabulous. I love the entire outfit.



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