Sunday, October 12, 2008

Vogue 1060, Sandra Betzina coat pattern review


Vogue 1060, Sandra Betzina design, unlined coat with shawl collar and dolman sleeves. I've already added a full review of the pattern on PatternReview. You can read it here.

The coat is rated Easy. Mine was bit time consuming mainly because the fabric I was working with unraveled every time I glanced at it. That meant every raw edge needed to be finished.

I was also a bit surprised at how fitted it was at the waistline, but as I noted in my review, that probably had more to do with my not-quite-accurate-sewing of the waist darts. I know I should have been more careful, after all with 12 darts, being a fraction of an inch off on each dart will obviously change the fit of the garment.

What makes this coat easy?
  • Easy reason number 1 - As mentioned above, the coat is unlined.
  • Easy reason number 2 - The main body of the coat is a front and back with a cut on sleeve. So there is no need to set in a sleeve. Speaking of sleeves, these have a nice shape to them. They are bell shaped and finished with a wide facing, about 5".
  • Easy reason number 3 - All of the facings are sewn in place by topstitching. You know what that means don't you? Whoo! Hoo! Happy dance in Sharon's sewing studio. You already know how much I dislike hand sewing. And I know that many of you find it relaxing. I, on the other hand, find ironing to be very relaxing and therapeutic. So give me a stack of items to be ironed over a stack of hand sewing any day.
  • Easy reason number 4 - The coat is really only fitted at the waist, so you'll likely find that you won't require a lot of pattern adjustments prior to sewing.
Facing instructions
Instructions are included for clean finishing the interfacing to the facing. This is a really nice, clean looking finish to your facings and if you've never tried it before I'd suggest you do.

I've used this technique many, many times and it really is easy to do. You take your interfacing and sew it to your facing - right sides together - along the outer edge of the facing (the edge you would typically finish by serging or turning under 1/4" and sewing.) Next, turn the facing and interfacing so that the wrong sides face each other and press. You now have a nice clean look along the facing edge.

Need a visual? Check out Lori's tutorial.

That being said, I didn't do that. I fused my interfacing to the facing and, using a black and white bias cotton strip, I encased the edges.

Front tie
When I saw the envelope cover, for some reason I thought the cinched in waist and tie were achieved by an elastic casing. If I would have looked closer I would have realized that was not the case. The ties are secured by inserting them inside the waist dart closest to the front edge. That's one reason you want to make sure you baste your darts rather than sew them. I had to rip out the stitches to insert the tie. I personally hate it when I create extra steps for myself. (Uh, remember? Lazy sewer here, LOL)

The pocket
This was the only place I got a bit mixed up. I will say it was late at night when I was pushing to finish the coat rather than go to bed for some much needed sleep. That's the story and I'm sticking to it...

The pocket is a single layer of fabric placed on the inside of the coat and topstitched in place on the right side of the coat. The pocket opening is the side seam, which is turned under 5/8" and topstitched in place. One edge of the pocket is secured when you sew the side seams together.

This is another reason to baste when instructed rather than sew. You baste your side seams together to check the fit, then remove them again to insert the pocket.

Note: I didn't think this through all the way and I used the black and white cotton fabric for my pockets, mainly because I didn't want to mess with the ravelly coat fabric. The only problem is that you can see glimpses of the pocket from the side seam.

I will need to go back and add a 2" strip of coat fabric over the top portion of the pocket so that it appears invisible.

Seam finishes
With the way this fabric unraveled, it was extremely difficult to work with. It definitely needed to have every exposed edge finished so I did a Hong Kong finish. I know they look uneven, but the fabric had a wobbly diagonal black line printed on white so it's a bit of an optical illusion..


Why did I sew this coat?
Well, the other day I needed an "in-between" coat. The kind of coat you need when it's too cold to run around in a long sleeve tee but too warm to wear a lightweight wool coat. As I peered inside my coat closet I realized that I'm tired of throwing on my old jean jacket and my trench coat that is almost *gasp* 15 years old.

Rather than purchase another coat, I looked through the pattern and fabric stash for something I could sew. This is the perfect weight for the fall transitional period. It's not too heavy and will work over jeans for running errands yet not look sloppy. If you sew the coat, keep in mind that it is fitted through the waist so you likely won't be able to wear a bulky sweater underneath.

Fabric Used:
A medium-weight tapestry print purchased two years ago (2006) from Vogue Fabrics. It isn't actually an upholstery tapestry as I'm certain it was designed for apparel sewing. It has very subtle silver threads running through the side of the fabric I choose as the outside.

The fabric for the contrast facings and tie is a black mystery fiber that arrived in a free bundle from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

You know, when I put it on, it reminds me of a smoking jacket. So I guess I have two-fer coat here - a coat to wear when running errands as well a Halloween costume if needed

I'm thinking this coat would be a great spring time coat, possibly even in a denim. So for now, I'll pack the pattern away and toss this stylish coat until the air temperature tells me it's time to wear wool.

Does anyone else have this coat on their to-do sewing list?
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  1. It's soooo pretty! What a prefect transitional coat. I'd be much happier wearing that than a trench.

  2. This WASN'T on my to-sew list but now it is. :) It's beyond chic with that fabulous fabric and perfect black collar. Great job! I never would have picked those fabrics but they couldn't be better. Thanks for the review and inspiration.

  3. No this wasn't on my list but like alicia it IS now! What a beautiful coat and I love the use of a different fabric for the pockets and hong kong finishing! I know you used it as outerwear but when I saw it I thought what a great coat to go over a dress or a pair of pants for work.

    Thanks for the review - now I'm off to vogue patterns!

  4. I love your coat. I agree with others, this pattern just moved up the sewing list. Thanks for posting your review and the tips.

  5. Absolutely gorgeous! I know that the fabric was difficult to work with, but I think the finished result was worth it!

  6. This is such a pretty coat, great job.

  7. Love that coat. Transitional coats are perfect! By the way, I got my brown knit sewn up this weekend! g

  8. I love your version of this jacket - the fabric is so graphic and interesting (even if it was a PITA with which to work).

  9. Ohhh, that's beautiful!

  10. I really like the way your coat turned out. I bought the pattern and am still looking for just the right fabric for it.

  11. Anonymous2:01 PM

    I've made this coat three times and adore the design and cut. Two are in wool coatings (one black, one grey) and the third in a rainwear fabric. They look extremely professional. Be sure to read thru the pattern all the way before starting. Personally I think the black and white tapestry fabric looks homemade and doesn't do the pattern justice.



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