Monday, February 11, 2008

McCall's 5527 velvet jacket progress

In between the two-day seminar, I managed to squeeze in a bit of sewing. That means the velvet jacket (McCall's 5527) is nearing completion.

For the lining, I used another silk from Fabric Mart - a cream colored silk with a floral print and a scroll design outlined in black. I'm sure many of you recognize it and probably have it on your own stash. The cream coordinates with the cream in the velvet and the scroll mimicked the paisley pattern.

It doesn't match - and I struggled with that - but I kept reminding myself that the lining would not be seen when the jacket is worn. The construction of the jacket is complete with the exception of hand sewing the hems - both the bottom and the sleeves. Oh yea, and that darn buttonhole. Perhaps I'll add a large snap with a decorative button instead.

Collar problem
I'm having a bit of an issue with the collar. The under and upper collar are both sewn in the velvet. I had eliminated the inner collar "stay" piece thinking that it would add too much bulk. Now I'm wondering if it was needed to help the upper collar lay properly. It wants to bunch up around the neckline when I put the jacket on.

Another issue is that the facing wants to roll to the outside (the black arrows point to the facing). Again, I'm not sure why, but I'm guessing it has to do with the bulk of the fabric. The seam consists of four layers of velvet, with one layer gathered, plus the interfacing on the facing piece.

How to fix?
I'm not sure what I need to do to fix these issues. I think I can tack or I didn't under stitch the facing since I had pressed that seam open before turning it and I've discovered that many times I don't need to under stitch when I do press that seam open. So I may need to go back and under stitch it. Or maybe top stitch it in place underneath the collar? Any ideas?

Here's the underside of the collar. You can see that the upper collar rolls ever so slightly to the back side so the seam is hidden. It acts like it needs top stitching around the collar edge for the collar to not bunch up but I'm concerned that top stitching will ruin the look. Perhaps I can tack it in place every few inches....again, I don't know. Any suggestions? Pin It

1 comment:

  1. Sharon, I think the effect of the facing rolling outwards is due to the pile against pile that makes the toolayers shift. I had the same problem with my leopard coat and I understitched the collar by hand. The stitches are invisible on the outside. It's going to be a lovely jacket, I'm quite sure!



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