Sunday, November 04, 2007

The Perfect Pant Fitting Adventures - measurements and pattern alteration

The Perfect Pant Fitting Adventure
Measurements and Pattern Alteration

My earlier post talked about my desire to finally obtain a pant pattern that is altered so that it will provide me with a pair of pants with the perfect fit.

Following the instructions in the pants fitting workbook, I enlisted the aid of my hubby to assist with obtaining accurate measurements. That involved wearing a piece of elastic around my waist as well as vertical strips of masking tape marking my center front, center back, and each side. Real romantic huh?

He helped me to get my front, back, right, and left waist to floor measurements as well as my waist to knee measurement. (All of which are really difficult to measure accurately by yourself.) We measured my front and back hip in 2" increments beginning 2" below my waistline. I also needed to measure my thigh circumference, crotch length and crotch depth. To get the correct crotch curve I used a flexible curve and transferred the shape onto a piece of paper.

Taking measurements only took about 20 minutes. Then came the time-consuming part - altering the pants pattern.
  • I traced the pattern in my size and marked the 5/8" seam allowance and transferred all of the other pattern markings.
  • Following the book, I began with the back pattern piece.
  • This particular pattern had a center line drawn on it so I didn't have to add that.
  • The waistline slope needed no adjustment.
  • I shortened the crotch depth by 3/8"
  • I placed my crotch curve over the pattern crotch curve and redrew it.
Pattern crotch curve compared to the new crotch curve created using the flexible curve.
Pattern crotch curve is underneath the new crotch curve created using the flexible curve.

  • Added 5/8" to the back crotch length by extending the crotch curve (per workbook instructions).
  • Made two darts instead of one, following workbook instructions.
  • In 2" increments, measured the hip width across the back and added to the side seam as needed.
  • Found the knee location of the pattern.
  • Shortened the knee location by 2-1/2"
  • Added 3" by adding tissue to the pant pattern halfway between the knee and the hem.
Knee location shortened by 2-1/2"

Added 3" to achieve correct pant length

The back pant pattern is now completely altered. At this point I looked at the back pattern and the alterations and I'm ready to toss the whole thing. The pattern piece just looks odd, especially the hip area that juts out quite a bit.

Completed altered back pant pattern on top of the original pant pattern tissue
Onto the front pant pattern alterations.
  • The front pattern piece also had a center line drawn on it so I didn't have to add that.
  • The front waistline slope needed no adjustment.
  • I shortened the crotch depth by 3/8" to match the back pattern piece.
  • Added 2-1/2" to the front crotch length by extending the crotch curve. This was per workbook instructions. At this point I'm looking at that curve and thinking that this will never work. I think it's too much to add at one point and I don't think it will work. However, there are no other instructions provided in the workbook for where to add to the front crotch length so I kept it as drawn.
  • In 2" increments, measured the hip width across the back and added to the side seam as needed. This time instead of adding to the hip area, I decreased from the hip area.
Hip area decreased but front crotch curve increased.

  • Shortened the knee location by 2-1/2" to match the back pattern piece.
  • Added 3" by adding tissue to the pant pattern halfway between the knee and the hem to match the back pattern piece.

Completed altered front pant pattern on top of the original pant pattern tissue
I still don't think these are going to work as altered, even though I followed the instructions to a T. I'm going to go cut these out and sew up very quickly for a test muslin before I begin sewing the real muslin needed for class.

Come back again for a report on the muslin using this altered pattern. Pin It

1 comment:

  1. I'm enjoying reading these so far - look forward to seeing how everything turns out!

    ReplyDelete

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