Sunday, October 21, 2007

Pattern Review - Simplicity 3962 Threads Jacket

I've been busy trying to clean up my UFO pile before I allow myself the joy of beginning my new SWAP wardrobe. I figured that just might be the motivation I need. Plus it appears that a few of the items that have been patiently waiting to be completed will work with my new plan.

This jacket is one of them as it is black with tiny white polka dots. I originally had planned to sew the skirt also, and I have enough fabric, but I'm no longer sure about that idea. It might be to "matchy-matchy"

Pattern Description: Simplicity 3962 Threads pattern -for a skirt in two lengths and a lined, princess seamed jacket with shawl collar in two lengths. This pattern has separate front pieces for B, C, and D cup.

Pattern Sizing:Available in 10 to 28W. This review is for short jacket in a size 12 (shoulders/bust) tapering to a 14 (hip) using the D cup pattern pieces.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does. And the line drawing on the back of the envelope will give you an accurate picture of the back of the jacket also.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Very good instructions were given to sew this jacket.

Four front sections are cut out - two are for the front of the jacket and two are used for the front facing. The instructions call for all four pieces to be interfaced - I did not do this. I only interfaced the piece to be used for the facing.

The first thing constructed is the tab - which is interfaced and sewn in a 3/8" seam. I cut mine out using the reverse side of my fabric on the bias for a subtle difference. The tab is basted to the side front piece and sewn in place when the front princess seam is sewn. You'll need to take care to keep that out of the way as you continue construction of the jacket.

The back princess seams are sewn, then the shoulder and side seams. The sleeve is eased slightly at the elbow, then set into the jacket armhole. A nice tip is included in the instructions on how to distribute the fullness evenly when setting in the sleeve and to press only the seam allowance to shrink out the fullness.

At this point you'll need to try the jacket on to determine where to place the shoulder pad (and the jacket is designed for a small 1/4" shoulder pad) as well as to mark the length of your sleeve. You need to mark the sleeve length now because of the way the lining is added.

The instructions have you interface both collar sections. Again, I only interfaced the bottom collar as I didn't think my fabric needed it for both. On my jacket the bottom collar is a solid black. I cut the upper collar using the reverse side of the fabric on the bias to match the waist tabs. The shawl collar is then basted to the neck edge of the jacket.

Lining A couple of points on the lining for this jacket. This pattern uses the same pattern pieces for both the jacket and the lining. I added an additional 1" on the center back of the lining piece that I then sewed into a short pleat for wearing ease at the neck and the hem. I've always had this extra wearing ease on jacket linings so I was surprised that it was not included here.

The other thing I really liked is that instructions are given to bag the lining. Basically that means that the lining is sewn in place entirely by machine (with the wrong sides together) and turned to the right side through a small opening at the bottom edge.

The first step is to sew the lining to the jacket along the front and neck edges, then to sew the lining to the jacket at the hemline. Be sure to leave an opening at the hemline as this is how you will turn the entire thing right side out.

The sleeve lining and jacket sleeve are pulled through this opening and sewn together with wrong sides together. Now you turn up the sleeve allowance and tack to the seam allowance - that is why you need to know where your sleeve hem will be. The sleeves are then turned right side out and the lining falls right in place. The only handstitching now is to slip stitch that opening in the hem.

I have to admit that I've read about bagging the lining but have never actually done it. Boy, what a time saver! No tiny slip stitches at the hems. Just follow the instructions given and it will turn out very nice. I'll be referring to these instructions again the next time I line a jacket.

To finish the jacket you only need to sew the buttonholes and sew on the buttons. The jacket called for 5/8" buttons which seemed a bit small to me. It may be because my eye has grown used to seeing large oversized buttons on jackets. I used 3/4" buttons that are black in the center with a white trim.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? and Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I like shawl collar jackets, I like Threads magazine, I like Simplicity's B, C, and D cup patterns - so I bought it. I really like how this turned out. It has been in my UFO pile for almost nine months. My original plan was to pipe the front edges, the shawl collar, and the tabs in a red fabric. When I tried this it just didn't look right, so I sewed it plain and simple.

As with other D cup pattern pieces, this fits pretty well right out of the envelope, but I will probably do a small FBA for the next jacket.

Fabric Used: A Lynette Napore mystery fiber stretch woven purchased at SR Harris Fabric Outletlocated just north of Minneapolis. If you're ever in the area this is a *must* stop. The fabric is black with small white elasticized dots and the perfect weight for a jacket. The lining is a black polyester non-cling from Hancock's as that's what I had on hand.

One more UFO checked off the list - one more step closer to sewing my winter SWAP!

(Link to patternreview review here - but it's the same information.)
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  1. Beautiful jacket!

  2. I already posted at PR but gosh, I do love this jacket!!! The white top underneath is just perfect. Although I love polka dots, I think I might agree that a bottom in the same print might be too much of a good thing. I think a skirt in the polka dots would be adorable, just not paired with the jacket. Of course, you didn't ask my opinion so feel free to disregard!!

  3. Love the jacket and it would look good with a solid black skirt. To make one with the polka dots would look a little too "matchy-matchy" and would take away some of the jacket's elegance. I do like the buttons you chose. I agree that 5/8 would be too small. Enjoy!

  4. The jacket looks great. I love polka dots. I would love to see it on a real person, pretty please?

  5. Wow it looks great! I really love the material you used on this one too.

  6. Fabulous! I love the blouse on the previous post too! You have been busy!

  7. Great pattern and beautiful fabric.

    BTW I was recently "tagged" and instructed to tag 7 others. So.... you've been tagged.

  8. Anonymous3:44 AM

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