Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Hot Patterns HP104 Butterfly Top Review Two

My sewing machine has been smokin'! So what better pattern to sew than a Hot Patterns, after all they are "patterns so hot they're smokin'..."

Now Isabelle, at Kitty Couture, just posted a review for the HP Cha-Cha-Cha dress. In fact, if you get on over there before Sept. 1 and leave a comment you could become the owner of a new copy of the Hot Patterns Cha-Cha-Cha dress. She's definitely feeling the Hot Patterns love.

Me? Not so much.

On April 1 I posted a review for the Hot Patterns Butterfly top concluding that the pattern was a keeper.

Is it too late to say "April Fools"?

When I spotted a black and white retro-inspired rayon/poly/lycra (rpl) knit at Hancock's, I immediately thought of the HP butterfly top and purchased the fabric (paying full price mind you). I eagerly anticipated sewing this top and had visions of wearing it paired with jeans and heels or black slacks.

Having learned my lesson last time about the sizing on the HP pattern I cut the body one size smaller and the hip band two sizes smaller than the muslin I had made.

As noted the last time, construction is indeed quick and easy, even though the instructions are not as clear as they could be.

Last time I sewed the cowl and upper sleeves as written in the pattern instructions. This time I did it a different way resulting in a neater neckline appearance.

The pattern instructions tell you to sew the back neck facing onto the back of the top.

Next, open the back facing out and pin the front and back together at the upper sleeve.

The back neck facing is then folded over the pinned seam and the entire upper shoulder seam is sewn.

The back neck facing is turned inside and the neck edge is completed. As you can see, the seam where the back neck facing and cowl meet don't match up neatly.

I had difficulty getting this point smooth the last time I made this shirt, so I did this step an easier way. I simply pinned the back neck facing to the front cowl edge and sewed the upper sleeve and neck edge in one continuous seam.

When I turned the cowl and facings to the inside the result was a nice smooth match. Rather than secure the facings to the inside by hand I stitched in the ditch on the right side of the shirt.

It's still a bit large. I shortened it by two inches before sewing the hip band on. The front hangs lower than the back - the same problem I had with the muslin. I suspect the shirt was designed so that the excess fabric would blouson over the hip band, but the hip band isn't tight enough for that. I've decided that the hip band needs to removed and the front shortened by one more inch.

After wearing it for a few hours I'm undecided as to whether or not I'm feeling the HP love. Pin It


  1. Hi Sharon!!! WHEW... your much more adventerous than I!!! Let us know how the final act turns out!!! Tomorrow is the BIG DAY... KINDERGARTEN... I think I might PUKE... :o) Lala :o)

  2. It does look pretty Sharon. That top is meant to be roomy, isn't it? I think you did a great job with it and the fabric is gorgeous.

    Your neck facing construction makes sense. I'm still finding it challenging to find the best methods of finishing necklines and hems on knits.

    I haven't used enough Hot Patterns yet to know exactly how much I can recommend them as a whole. The artsy drawings can be deceiving as they are not realistic... I try to rely on the descriptions as much as possible.
    I believe we can be disappointed with any pattern company, though. HP just said they were going to include scans of the envelope backs on their website soon, which is going to be a huge plus as we'll be able to see the technical drawing and yardage.
    I can't wait to receive my new order and to test the patterns out for fall.

    I really think your top is cute Sharon, and it seems as if it will look great paired with tight trousers.

  3. PS: that is weird about the hip band though... the drawing on the front of the pattern envelope definitely suggests it is tighter than the top and has a gathering effect, yet on the technical drawing your posted in April, there is no gathering whatsoever! :-o

  4. I don't own this pattern. But I do own a lot of other HP patterns. It is because they are drafted for a larger bust cup than the big4. So could it be that it is hanging longer in the front because it is designed for someone with - ahem - larger sisters? If I had the pattern I bet you I could wear this without an FBA, just like the Weekender Sunshine Top I do own. (This is why I love their top patterns so much). So it is possible that you might have to do a SBA to get it to hang correctly in the front? Just a guess. But I may have to reconsider what I think about this pattern and get one. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

  5. Smokin....oh as an ex smoker, that sounds pretty darned good right about now! Hmmm, I'm gonna be stalked and thumped by the pros you hang with, but not lovin this one as much as the pink down there or the blue. That blue top--love it! If you need to do an SBA to get it to look as beautiful on you as that blue one, then maybe do an SBA (what is that, anyway?). xo



Blog Widget by LinkWithin