Wednesday, July 25, 2007

The Pattern Alterations on McCall's 5466 Continues

Thanks for the comments on my previous post on doing an FBA on the bodice for this dress pattern. They were extremely helpful (um, maybe not yours Stacey...LOL)

Dawn posted some thoughts that I'd like to respond to.
  • Why did I think the waist dart was too large? I thought it was too wide because the bust tip ended up with a very pronounced point.
  • What if you rotate some to the side? I was afraid it would ruin the design of the dress.
  • What if you make an armsyce princess dart? Never thought about this, and I've never done this. I'll need to practice this one to see how it works.
  • The middle photo looked like there was more length above the bust and perhaps it would be better to have the extra length below. Good point - I hadn't noticed that or thought about that. I'm going to play with that adjusted pattern piece and see what happens when I move the extra length.
  • You referenced page 158 of Fast Fit for Real People and suggested doing the alteration inside or or outside of the dart rather than through the dart. Okay, this scares me! Because I've never done an FBA that has not been right in the dart! Which means I need to try it to get over my fear right? After all, it's just a paper pattern.
Sew-4-Fun said she would do the standard Palmer/Pletsch FBA adding a side dart. That sealed the deal. When two sewers with much more experience than I suggest adding a side dart I guess it's okay to add a side dart! So that's the pattern adjustment I worked on tonight, and the one that is most familiar to me.

Referencing Fast Fit for Real People I cut the pattern along the lines I had drawn, pulled the pieces apart, and added one inch. This resulted in a slightly wider waist dart and a side dart. I did have to lower the bust point so the waist dart is also shorter than the original. I left the pleats at the neckline alone.

Rather than tape the cut and spread pattern piece I retraced it with the FBA added. That way if for some reason this doesn't work, or doesn't fit, I can go back to the slashed pattern piece and try again.
And the ladies at the JoAnn's cutting table wondered why anyone would want a full bolt of true-grid.
Next step? Sew a muslin of the bodice to check the FBA as well as the width of the neckline. Based on the tissue fit, this neckline might be too wide for me. Pin It


  1. I love true grid. I used to use it to trace patterns. Now I'll use it for drafting.

  2. Thanks for detailing your quest to get the FBA done properly. Information abounds, and I still always feel abit overwhelmed when I sit down to do one. It's nice to have the thought process for this dress so nicely laid-out.

  3. I'll be interested to see how it goes. I wonder, if the darts are too pointy, if it'd work to put some of the dart control into gathers at the side or waist. Or, what if the dart ends further away from the apex? That might make it less pointy. I love a puzzle. Except for those sudoko things. Give me a good crossword any day!

  4. Sorry, Sharon, I'll try harder next time. Right now, though, I gotta confess nearly spit MY coffee onto the computer screen when I read that! Love it! xo

  5. You know, that explains why I got a bunch of hits today linked back to you!

  6. Anonymous12:47 AM

    Maybe this is a silly question, why do you like to use true grid? What do you use it for? thanks

  7. Hi Shorty!

    That's not a silly question! True Grid is light a light weight interfacing and I buy it by the bolt when interfacing is 50% off at Joann's.

    I use it to trace a sewing pattern if I know that I will need to make a number of alterations to my pattern piece. That way the pattern tissue is intact - if I would need to redo the alterations, or if I get rid of the pattern, or if I would change sizes.

    Because it has 1" grids printed on it, it makes it easy to measure the amount needed on an alteration. If I know I need to add 1" in width I can visually measure it with the grids.

    Hope this helps!

  8. Anonymous1:46 PM

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