Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Sock Monkeys - so cute, so cuddly, so couture???

(photo from hazelandmelvin.com)


After work today I happened to catch a few minutes of the local evening news. The newscasters were on location at the state fair reporting on what's new at the fair. I wasn't paying too much attention as I was preparing to walk out the door to go to the gym. All of a sudden a photo of a dress made from sock monkeys appeared on the screen. That sure got my attention!

The dress is designed by Minneapolis designer Rebecca Yaker and is currently on display in the Creative Services Building. If you click on the photo below it will bring you to the news story where there is an option to view the video from the newscast.

(photo from kare11.com)

I will be heading straight to the Creative Services Building this weekend when I arrive at the fair. And I'll be sure to have my camera with me.

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Monday, August 28, 2006

Completed one of my personalized pattern catalogs due to no Internet access

Saturday morning started out great. I had a chance to sleep in, nothing urgent that needed to be done, beautiful end of summer weather... I did want to log into my email accounts before heading out for the day, and wouldn't you know it. No Internet access.

It was working fine Friday evening, but there was no response on Saturday morning. Hubby spent some time on the phone with our ISP's help desk, but they were unable to determine the problem. Which meant, no Internet for two days? That meant I couldn't peek at my favorite sewing blogs, or look at sewing reviews at Patternreview.com, or browse the old patterns for sale on eBay, or be tempted to purchase more fabric from the great online fabrics stores.

So, you'd think that I would have gotten tons of sewing done since I was unable to access the Internet. But that wasn't the case. The weather was so wonderful that I felt antsy being indoors. The dog had long walks and we got the bikes out and enjoyed the sunshine.

However, when I did spend time indoors, I finally got around to filing my Vogue patterns numerically. Actually, it wasn't all of my Vogue patterns, only the ones in the large pattern envelopes. They have been in boxes all over the place and when I decide I want to use one I often have trouble remembering where I placed it.

Over the past six months, I've been working on scanning all of my pattern covers and then entering the information into a database so that I can find specific patterns. I have accumulated quite a pattern collection (okay, it's really a stash) that it was becoming difficult to remember where I had stored the pattern I wanted to use.

I printed a copy of the database and placed it into a three ring binder creating by own personal pattern catalog. I also saved the file as a PDF and burned it onto a CD. Now I can also easily search by style, year, pattern number or designer on my computer to find the pattern I want to use.

I still need to complete the rest of the Vogue patterns, as well as my Simplicity, Butterick McCall's and independent pattern company patterns. But I think that will wait until the weather cools off and I spend more time indoors.

Hopefully our Internet will be fixed by this evening so I can provide an update on the dress I've been working on. Pin It

Wednesday, August 23, 2006

Butterick 4849 Dress The next step: the sleeves

Between the workout at the gym and Project Runway (which will be airing in a few minutes) there wasn't much time to sew this evening. However, I was able to get the sleeves on and basted the midriff piece onto the bodice.

The sleeves are narrow. I realized this before cutting them and added width to them using the same pivot and slide method that I used to adjust the bodice. I tapered back to the original seam at the elbow. However, after sewing the sleeve in a 5/8" seam as is allowed, I tried the sleeve on and found it tighter than I like at the elbow. I took that seam out and resewed the seam in a 3/8" seam. I'm very glad I added the extra at the bicep.


After the sleeves were sewn on, I basted on the midriff band. At this point I placed it on GiGi to evaluate. I'm not sure I like the midriff band in the same color. I won't have a chance to sew for a few days so this weekend I'll dig in the stash to see if I have a piece of black velvet I can use of for the band. Of course, the dress will look different once I add some embellishment to the neckline band.

Oops, gotta run..I hear Project Runway starting. Pin It

Tuesday, August 22, 2006

Next Up - Butterick's Duro Dress (Number 4849)

I now own most of the "Duro" style dress patterns (as well as HotPatterns version). I wasn't 100 percent thrilled with the Simplicity version I made and haven't worn it yet. The fabric I choose for the McCall's version is too summery and I'm not going to begin something that has no hope of being worn until next summer. Of course, by then it may be hopelessly outdated. HotPatterns I was hesitant to sew because of the tight sleeves many people on Patternreview commented on and I guess I'm just too lazy to tackle that right now.

That left Butterick's version. Originally I was going to use up a piece of winter white crepe I have in my stash, but thought maybe I could try it out of a color that wasn't on the pattern cover. Hey, now there's an idea! You'd think after all these years of sewing I could see beyond the illustrations!

Knowing that I wanted to wear it this fall (with boots of course) I dug in my stash of costume fabrics and pulled out this piece of crinkled velvet. The dress calls for 3-1/2 yards (45" wide) and I had 4 yards. I don't remember what it had been purchased for, other than something to do with Ren-Faire costumes.

The first thing I did was a full bust adjustment (FBA) using the pivot and slide method outlined in Nancy Zieman's book Fitting Finesse.

First, I traced the original pattern piece in the size I wanted onto drawing paper and cut it out. (I purchase the paper in large rolls from Sam's Club. It comes in handy for more than just tracing patterns!)







Next, I placed my traced pattern piece on top of the drawing paper and marked 1" at the side seam. This is how much I will be adding to the front for my FBA. I also marked the center front at the hemline.



The pattern piece is anchored to the paper with a pin at the end of the shoulder seam (the end where the armhole is). This is the pivot point. I then pivoted the pattern until the side of the pattern piece was at the line I drew earlier. (Where the pen is in the photo.)

I then drew the new armhole seam (red arrow on the left). You can also see where the original front hemline was (red arrow on the right.)



The pattern piece is then pivoted back to the center front hem marking. The new armhole was drawn in pen on the left side of the photo. The last step is to taper the side seam from the armhole to the hemline. Identical steps are used for the back piece also.

I added additional length to the front bodice as I knew the midriff band would not hit me in the right place otherwise.






Here is my final altered bodice front with the original size 12 pattern piece on top of it for comparison.





I decided to not do contrasting bands, nor will I add purchased trim to the neck band as illustrated on the pattern envelope. I am going to attempt some type of embellishment on the neck band. I'm not sure what that will be, but I'm sure something will inspire me.

I'm excited to think that I might actually have something completed before the season starts rather than when it is ending. Pin It

Sunday, August 20, 2006

The Butterick 4859 skirt update

In my haste to create a suit in two days, and then my disappointment over the fit of the jacket pattern I had chosen, I forgot to mention the success of the skirt. I choose to sew view B, which is the view without the contrast band.

I used the same fabric as the jacket - a lightweight black wool with some lycra. However, I was short fabric as the skirt calls for 1-1/2 yards of 60" wide fabric (size 14) and I barely had 1-1/4 yards left after cutting out the jacket. This was before I knew the jacket would become a potential wadder and I really wanted the two pieces cut from the same piece of cloth. The solution? I shortened the center back and side back pieces by 3". On the side back piece I was able to curve the hem back to the original cutting line. This meant I did not have to shorten the skirt in the front.

As you can see, from the front this is a plain looking slightly a-line skirt.


From the side, you can see that the dramatic contrast in hem lengths is not as evident as on the pattern envelope.
And finally, as much as I dread posting my rear on the Internet, here is the back view of the skirt so the seam can be seen. It's great to walk in as it swishes behind you! The horizontal lines across the back hip are from the tee-shirt I tucked in. I can see that I will need to be careful what I wear with the skirt.


This pattern is rated as easy and I would agree with it. The front piece is cut on the bias and the two back pieces as well as the two lining pieces are not. That's it - three pattern pieces for the skirt and two pattern pieces for the lining. The back panel is just a curved princess seam. I put in an invisible zipper and finished the waist edge per the instructions. The next time, I will sew the waist treatment differently. The instructions have the waist edge finished with the lining, which is a problem as the lining wants to slip up over the waist edge when you wear the skirt. In fact, I plan on removing the lining and adding a narrow waistband.

So, the jacket was a bust. At least for now. I just don't feel like tackling the recutting at the moment. But the skirt was a winner. Pin It

Friday, August 18, 2006

Just in case you thought I was joking about the poor fit of Butterick 4863 jacket

I would much rather post pretty pictures of garments I am proud to have sewn. However, I posted earlier about the fitting problems I was having with the jacket from Butterick 4863. Trust me, this is not how I envisioned this jacket would look!

It is described as semi-fitted, appears fitted on the model and on the artist's drawings. This fit is so bad, that I even went back to my pattern to verify that I had indeed cut a size 12 like I thought I had!

I gave up my quest to have this completed for my event yesterday morning as I realized it would take a lot of work to get the fit right. The sleeves are incredibly long, the waist is huge, the upper chest and upper back is too wide, the shoulder seam is too long and the armsyce is too low. In this photo, I have placed a 1/2" shoulder pad on my right shoulder (the left side of the photograph). It still doesn't take up the excess of the armsyce, and I had already sewn the seam 1/4" deeper than called for.



I haven't given up on the jacket yet. I think I can take it apart, recut where possible and then resew the jacket. I hope that produces a wearable jacket. I still think the style is cute and I have a piece of velvet I'd like to use for another view. Pin It

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

Quick update on the progress of jacket from Butterick 4863

The jacket is going together like a dream! All notches and small dots appear to match up well and it really is an easy pattern to sew. I still need to finish sewing the facing, add buttonholes and buttons, and hem the sleeves and bottom of the jacket.

The snag I've run into is that the jacket is too big! In Butterick patterns, I typically sew a size 12 and make an FBA. That's what I did with this jacket and it is large. The upper back and upper chest area seem large, the unhemmed sleeves hang below my fingertips, and I've taken in the waist and hip seams. The pattern is described as semi-fitted and after getting this far, I would consider it loose-fitting. I'm not sure if it is the pattern, the fabric I choose (which has lycra), or the fact that I began an upper body weight workout routine six weeks ago and my body is changing.

Tonight, I'll take it in where I can, complete the jacket and get the skirt put together. If all goes as planned, I can hem everything while watching Project Runway! Pin It

Monday, August 14, 2006

It's Monday night and I need a black suit by this Thursday

Okay, I just found out this afternoon that I need a black suit for a media event this Thursday morning. I want it to be somewhat trendy and flirty. Of course, there is nothing in my closet that will work. Well, that's not exactly true, but I'd prefer something new.

So here's the plan. I need a jacket and skirt and I need it fast. I have two evenings to sew. (and that includes giving up watching Project Runway on Wednesday evening...) So tonight, once the after dinner clean up was complete, I dug through my stash looking for an appropriate piece of black fabric. Something with a nice hand - not too heavy, not too light. Something that would work in an unlined jacket and skirt since time is very, very limited.

I found a lightweight black wool/lycra blend that has been sitting in the closet patiently awaiting the day it would be the chosen one. Today is the day. As soon as I choose it, I placed it in my washer on the Wool setting. (Note to self - preshrink fabric and mark it as done before storing it!)
Onto the pattern selection. I noticed the other day when I was looking over the Butterick patterns I had purchased, that this jacket pattern (Butterick 4863) was unlined. I remember thinking, "oh shoot. I don't think I want an unlined jacket. I'll need to make a lining pattern for this." Ah, but tonight I was singing a different tune. Just want I need - a trendy jacket that is unlined. My plan is to make view B, the one with the curved front with eight buttons, gathered sleeve cap and bell sleeves. Although it means compromising on the seams finishes to get it done in time. I'm just not that quick of a sewer to be able to finish the seams as I'd like in this short of a time period. While the wool was in the washer I did an FBA to the princess seam of the jacket. There are only five main pieces to this jacket, so it really is easy.

I'm going to make this skirt (Butterick 4859) to go with the jacket. I plan on sewing view B, the one without the contrast insert. I cut this pattern out this past weekend as I have other fabric chosen to make the view with the insert. This also appears to be very easy to sew. Love the princess seams in the back of this skirt. I'll admit, I'm a bit concerned that I can't pull this off in time. I'm also concerned about wool against my skin as I usually can't wear wool unless it's lined. Stay tuned to see how much I can accomplish tomorrow after work.
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Sunday, August 13, 2006

The 80s are back - just look at Vogue 2694 (c 1982) and Butterick 4864 (c 2006)

I wrote a few days ago some thoughts I had about the new patterns released by Butterick for Fall 2006.

I had written that the lines on this jacket pattern (Butterick 4864) reminded me of a suit I had sewn in the early 1980s. Here is the line drawing for the jacket by Butterick. Look at the curved yoke and set in sleeve with a gathered cap, and short jacket length.

Now, compare that to the lines of this Vogue pattern by Perry Ellis from 1982.

The same curved yoke, short jacket length (minus the peplum) and gathered sleeve cap. And it is paired with a full, split skirt and a button front blouse with a drawstring neckline. I must admit that I absolutely loved this pattern. I made it from a lilac woven something (I can't remember what the fabric was. However, as a young and poor single mom with two kids I'm certain it wasn't anything extraordinary!) The blouse was from an almost sheer cotton voile in a small print that coordinated with the lilac. Come to think of it I may have made this as an Easter outfit for myself. Then again, maybe not. I was always drawn to any shade of purple. This pattern was the first time I had attempted this type of yoke and I remember being very proud of the final product. Too bad I tossed the pattern years ago, although I would never have been able to use it as it was a size 6. Now that I think about it, I do wish I had kept the pattern - just to prove to myself that I did sew with a size 6 pattern at one time!

Anyway, see what I mean about the similarities? Whether we like it or not, the 80s will be influencing fashion for awhile.

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Chinese Dancer's Peacock Skirt

Here is a photo of the dancer's peacock skirt that I wrote about yesterday.

This dancer's costume and dance was a lotus flower. Both costumes were beautiful, as were the dances. Pin It

Sunday, August 06, 2006

No sewing today! Just lots of family fun complete with face painting and balloon animals

Usually I can sneak in at least 15 minutes in the sewing room but not today. We had a wonderful family get together with my husband's side of the family. Since that side celebrates many birthdays in the summer, we made this get together one big birthday cookout. Everyone from Dad, who is in his eighties, to an infants only 3 months old.

We couldn't have asked for better weather! Absolutely perfect, which was such a relief after that heat wave we all experienced. We were able to be outside on the patio with the adults enjoying each other's company and the kids playing in the plastic kiddie pool that was set up.

I did still have an opportunity to be creative. About 6 months ago, I had invested in face painting supplies so that I could offer face painting along with balloon animals when I clown. However, I haven't had much opportunity to actually paint on too many faces (other than my own). With a number of little ones around I figured it was time to break out the face paints and give it shot.



It was really good experience for me. I hadn't anticipated the little boys wanting to be skeletons and "dark vader" guys, but that was what they wanted. I also hadn't realized that they would all crowd around to see each other being painted.


The cutest was a niece who had a pink butterfly painted to match her pink outfit. It was a huge learning experience for me as she was just a little wiggle worm and every time I added another item with the brush she wanted to see herself in the mirror. To complete her look, I ended up sculpting her a balloon butterfly hat.

What a great day. Lots of family, lots of food and lots of fun. As much as I enjoy sewing, spending a quality day with family rates much, much higher.

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Saturday, August 05, 2006

Sigh...It's time to put away summer sewing and begin fall projects

It seems that my incentive for summer sewing faded at the same time the heat wave broke. It doesn't make much sense to try and cram in sewing new summer projects when, realistically, I will only be able to wear them for another month or two. I emphasized new because I do have a few summer items that are cut and partially sewn that I will finish before packing away the light cottons and summer fashion patterns.

I have an adorable aqua cotton eyelet skirt that only awaits a lining and a hook and eye. I used Simplicity 4196 (c. 2006) and placed the eyelet edging along the hem. I've already sewn up a pink border print version (hmmm, just like the pattern envelope photo - imagine that!) and it was very simple skirt to sew together. I also have two summer tops cut out of this pattern and it would be nice to have those for the summer season. Although that style could easily be worn into the fall under a jacket.




Next in line is another skirt, this time from vogue 7643 (c. 2002). I have this one cut out from an embroidered linen. The linen is a natural color with small pink floral embroidery and I choose pink and natural color trims to coordinate with it. I'd really like to complete this one as it has gone through two entire summers just waiting it's turn to be sewn. Good grief - it might develop an an inferiority complex if I let it go one more year.




Next up is Simplicity 4699 (c. 2004) which is a great wardrobe pattern. There was quite a lot of positive reviews for the t-shirt in this pattern which is the main reason I had purchased the pattern. Now, two years later, I am finally getting around to actually sewing items from the pattern. The reviews were true, the t-shirt is great! I've made two with one more cut and ready to go (do you see a pattern here?). A white knit with black sparkly polka dots. It takes no more than an hour to complete this shirt so why, oh why do I not have this done? I also have the long jacket waiting to be finished - all it needs is the hem to be sewn. I made it from a fun cotton/lycra tropical two-tone blue print and I really must finish it so I can wear it before the summer is over.


Last, but not least, I have a partially sewn Sewing Workshop Elle pant and shirt in the pile. The pant, from a light pink linen, just needs the elastic waist sewn in and to be hemmed. It's only been in that state since last year. I know that these pants fit as I've made a few pairs from linen before. Why, oh why am I such a procrastinator when it comes to completing my sewing projects???

The shirt, out of a bright multi colored silk print, is more than halfway completed. I need to finish the collar, set in the sleeves, sew buttonholes (yuk) and buttons and hem it.

Perhaps I'll just tuck them all away yet again and start ahead of time on my fall and winter sewing. Maybe I'll plan ahead and start right now! (Yea, right). This afternoon I even purchased some red wool melton/nylon blend coating from Fabric Mart Fabrics. My plan is to begin sewing the coat I wrote about earlier - Vogue 8307 - that was seen in the movie The Devil Wears Prada.

So, what will it be - summer or fall? Stayed tuned as I haven't decided yet. Pin It

Friday, August 04, 2006

New patterns are out! Why do I continue to purchase more and more and more...

The marketing of the sewing pattern companies has definitely worked on me. Combine that with the ability to see the new pattern releases on the Internet almost as soon as they are released - well, the temptation is just too great. I eagerly await the new releases by the Big 4 - Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity, and Vogue - just to see what there is.

I certainly don't need anymore patterns as I already own hundreds and will never in my lifetime ever use all of them. And truth be told, most of the new releases are variations of patterns I already own. That's where the power of marketing gets to me. I love to see the latest pattern releases sewn up in the fabrics that make them look fresh and new (most of the time).

Last week Butterick released their new fall pattern collection and there are a few I must have. (Although if I had to pay the full price listed on the pattern I would certainly make do with what I already own.)


My absolute favorite is this skirt - Butterick 4859. I love the curves in the back of the skirt. I also like the detail of the contrast band that wraps around the entire skirt. I'm not sure I would make this in a tweed, but I do think it would be absolutely fabulous in velvet for the holidays.
Butterick finally hopped on the band wagon and released their version of the infamous Duro dress - Butterick 4849. I think I like this one the best out of all of the Big 4 versions. It is closer to the HotPatterns Hippie Chick dress which I was hesitant to sew because of potential fitting problems I had read about with other sewers who had tried the pattern line. The next pattern sale I will pick this one up and will sew it in the fabric I had purchased last winter to make the Hippie Chick dress as I would rather spend time tweaking a pattern line I've used extensively.
I like the sleeves and the plaid on this blouse - Butterick 4853 - but this isn't one I'll be making for two reasons. The silhouette isn't the best for me, and short sleeves won't be worn around here after a few more months. No reason to invest time in what I consider a spring/summer blouse right now.
This jacket -Butterick 4864 - has a very 80s feel to it. I actually like the yoke and shoulder design as it reminds me of a Vogue suit I sewed in the early 80s. I loved that suit. It was a Perry Ellis design. That jacket didn't button, but it had the same look with the bodice and sleeves gathered into the yoke. Come to think of it, that suit had gaucho pants also. Too bad I got rid of the pattern, but who knew it would be back 25 years later?
Another jacket I find interesting is Butterick 4863. The contrast lower band on the sleeve can go - I think that makes it look a bit costumey. However, I like the curved center front seam, gathered sleeve cap and belled sleeves. Probably because, once again, it reminds me of a Vogue suit I had made years ago.
I'm glad to see so many suits in the collection - I really enjoy wearing them. I'm not too fond of the collar on this suit - Butterick 4869 but I do like the back of the skirt.
Armed with the knowledge that new Butterick patterns had been released and my "wish list" I stopped into my local Hancock Fabrics store. I knew they had patterns on sale and was hoping it would be the Butterick. Alas, it was McCall's, which I had already told my self "no, no, no". But I broke down and came home with two new McCall's and a Kwik Sew.


The first is this skirt pattern. Did I need it? Nope. It's really a basic skirt when you look at it. It is just a straight skirt that has a faced waist treatment. The difference is the addition of three narrow, ruffled tiers added to the bottom of the skirt. Could I have made this with a pattern that currently exists in my pattern collection? Yep, sure could have. However, for 99 cents I get to enjoy the cover photographs, not mess with calculating the width and length of the tier pattern pieces, and I have the fabric requirements all calculated out for me.


The other McCall's pattern I purchased was 5179 - another "Sew News" dress pattern that I had seen when I glanced through the latest Sew News magazine at the library. It's actually a wrap dress and I certainly don't need another wrap dress pattern. However, I have a nice black rayon crepe that I will look great made into the version shown in blue with the wide contrast belt (upper right corner). I'm not sure what I will make the contrasting midriff and tie out of yet. Again, for 99 cents I don't have to bother figuring out fabric requirements or modifying pattern pieces from an existing pattern.


I also picked up an interesting knit top from Kwik Sew's new releases. It is pattern number 3434. The top has a draped front with tucks at the shoulder and gathers at the waistband. The waistband appears to sit at the hip and the front neckline is very deep and open. The top is designed to wear over another knit top. I have no idea what to make this one out of. I'll need to keep my eyes open for the right piece of fabric. I haven't sewn with Kwik Sew patterns in quite a few years, so I'm looking forward to seeing how the top comes together.


I wanted to purchase Butterick patterns on sale, but came home with McCall's and a Kwik Sew. I'll just wait for the next Butterick pattern sale to get that skirt pattern - who knows what else might be released to tempt me by then? Pin It

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