Tuesday, July 04, 2006

White Eyelet Jacket - New Look 6609

I finished sewing the white eyelet jacket from the New Look pattern 6609 this morning before beginning preparations for the family Fourth of July cookout.

I don't typically sew this brand but the princess seams in the jacket combined with the slight flounce at the jacket and sleeve hemlines intrigued me. I like princess seams as I find them easy to do an FBA.

I cut the jacket out in a size 12, did an FBA and tapered out slightly at the hip. I choose to eliminate the lining as I wanted a lightweight summer jacket to toss on over camis and summer dresses.

After I had sewn the jacket fronts and backs together I tried it on to do a quick fit test before adding the sleeves. Much to my surprise there was way too much fabric at the bustline! I will admit that I didn't flat measure the pattern before cutting it out. I just did my typical FBA adjustment. I refit the front and then drew the new cutting and seam lines onto my adjusted pattern piece.

As you can see, I could have almost eliminated the entire adjustment completely. (The red line shows the new cutting line.) I'm not sure if this was this particular pattern, or if it is the New Look pattern line. I'll need to make a note of this the next time I try a New Look pattern.

The hem flounce was added after recutting and resewing the front bodice. I added the sleeves and was ready to add the facings to finish the jacket. At that point I realized that I didn't want to add a large back facing piece and that I didn't need the entire front facing piece that I had previously cut out. I choose to use a small bias facing around the entire jacket neckline and front. That is the finish I had used on my favorite eyelet jacket made from a Vogue pattern. This was a good finish for the lightweight, semi-sheer fabric.

I measured the length needed for the bias facing and cut out 2" wide strips of fabric. I did have to piece the bias strip as I didn't have much fabric left over.

Next, I folded the bias strip in half, wrong sides together, and steam pressed the strip. I now had a 1" double folded bias strip.

The bias strip was pinned to the jacket front edge wrong sides together and sewn with a 5/8" seam. Next, I trimmed the seam allowance to 1/4" and pressed the narrow facing to the inside of the jacket.

The final step was to topstitch along the jacket edge securing the narrow bias facing to the inside of the jacket.

Final step - one last pressing, try on, admire, and hang in closet to be worn until the fabric falls apart.
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Sunday, July 02, 2006

Retro Betsey Johnson Butterick Pattern 6530

Sometimes a 30-year old pattern can look look as stylish today as it did when it was first released. I think that's the case with this one. It is pattern number 6530, a design by Betsey Johnson released by Butterick in the early or mid-70's. I purchased this one off of eBay a few years ago and put it away in my pattern collection. While I do enjoy building my pattern collection, I also actually sew some of them, so it doesn't matter to me if the pattern pieces have been cut. This pattern had been cut and the pattern envelope is pretty brittle, but all of the pattern pieces are there. I had a picked up a unique knit piece at a fabric warehouse that I thought would be perfect for this top and skirt, however, I decided to make a wearable muslin first out of a knit fabric that I didn't like as much. I hate it when I sew what I think it going to be the perfect pattern and fabric combination, only to not like the fit of the pattern! I especially wanted to check out the gathered sleeves on this pattern since I thought they might be too much for today's fashion.

I did do a slight FBA to the top, adding some additional fullness to the side seam. In hindsight, it probably wasn't needed since the white knit has so much give to it. I eliminated the back zipper also. The scoop neckline has a small key hole opening with a a small sewn-in casing with drawstring tie - the tie is more decorative than functional. The sleeves have an almost unnoticable design detail to them - they are shaped into points at the hem - the point sits about halfway over the back of my hand. Cool - kind of Renaissance detail.

I did sew the sleeves in exactly as designed and sure enough, there was too much gathers at the sleeve cap. Being the lazy sewer than I am (at times) rather than remove the sleeve and redraw the sleeve cap, I unstitched the upper part of the sleeve, cut off some of the sleeve cap, regathered it and resewed it on. The gathers are a little wonky because of that, but hey, it's a muslin right? Pin It


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