Back to basics - how to sew a mitered corner hem

"Hmmmm, let me see. Well, that day is Christmas. You know, it's only six weeks away."

That's what I heard from the receptionist the other day when I called to schedule an appointment for six weeks out.

"Six weeks!" I thought to myself "Uh, oh. I better get busy."

And I am.

A few of the items I've been sewing require mitered corners on the hem. As I was doing them, I thought it would be a good time for a back to basics on mitering a corner.

How to sew a mitered corner hem

1) Finish the raw edges of your fabric. Turn both sides to the wrong side the desired hem amount and press. My example has one inch hem.s

2) Open out the edges you just pressed. Fold the corner up aligning the edge where the creased lines meet. Press.

3) Unfold the corner. Fold the fabric diagonally, right sides together, matching the edges.

4) Stitch along the diagonal press line you created in step 2.

5) Trim the seam to 1/4", tapering at the corner to reduce bulk.

6) Press the seam open.

7) Turn the corner right side out and press.

See how easy that is? And it makes for a nice and neat corner edge.

I no longer remember when or where I first read about this finish, but I do know you can find instructions to miter corners in nearly any sewing reference book you may have on hand.

Do you use this technique or do you have another favorite way of mitering your corners?
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Comfy and cozy - Vogue 8580 knit tunic

Recently I found myself in need of some loose fitting, super comfy, kick around at home clothes. Now I bet you have a decent supply of those types of garments, right?

Well, if you look into my closet you will find quite a few dresses, nice tailored blouses, dozens of dress pants and skirts, as well as jackets and blazers. But not too many I-want-to-be-comfy-and-I'm-not-leaving-the-house-so-it-doesn't-have-to-be-gorgeous clothes.

That's where Vogue 8580 entered the picture. Loose, tunic knit style top.

Perfect! Or so I thought. It's actually meh.

It's one of those patterns that, as you're sewing the pieces together you ask yourself "and I spent $3.99 on this because....?" and find you really don't have an answer.

That's because the design is so simple, and has so few pieces, that most of you could easily 1) draft it yourself or 2) morph together other pattern pieces to create it.

However, that's beside the point. Let me give you my thoughts on the finished tunic sewn from this pattern.

H.U.G.E. amount of ease.

That about sums it up. *LOL*

All right, I'll tell you more.

First of all, it really does have a huge amount of ease built into the design.

For example, finished hip for a small measures about 49-1/2". Now compare that to the hip measurement for a small, which is 34-1/2". See what I mean? Alot of ease for a knit garment.

It's also quite long. I didn't bother to fit as I sewed and the finished tunic could easily be worn as a dress. Which, just to set the record straight, I will not be doing.

This tunic is a size small.

I also thought the under bust band was odd. The band is sewn on separately, with an opening at the center front to insert the elastic. Four inches at the center front are left unelasticized. The band is quite wide - about 2" when completed. Which works if you have 2" elastic, which I did not. I had 1-1/2" elastic which causes the band to not lay as nicely as it could.

The knit I used is a soft cotton blend that feels almost like a very light weight sweatshirt. It's almost too heavy for this design, so keep your fabric choice in mind when sewing this pattern.

The neckline probably would not have needed any stabilization, but I didn't want to take any chances.

I sewed a strip of stay tape to the wrong side of the neck edge.

Turned the neck edge to the wrong side and top stitched in place.

And promptly discovered that I somehow had managed to sew one neck edge curved and on straight *LOL* So it looks like it's back to sewing machine for me.

Talk to you later!
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One Yard Wonders 30 minute cami turned lace tunic

Even though I am still eagerly awaiting my copy of the book One Yard Wonders, I knew I could still sew something from the book. As long as I choose one of the two projects I submitted that is. :-)

Ta-da! May I present the OYW 30 minute cami turned lace tunic. (I'm not sure if that's what it's called in the book or not, but 30 minute cami was the working title.) This tunic is what I had planned to wear if I had been able to attend the release party. With a jacket of course. I mean c'mon, it's November --- and chilly.

The fabric is a rayon lace purchased a few years ago from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It was marked dry clean only but I tossed it in the washer on a delicate cycle to see what would happen. The washing made it very soft and flowy. The lining is a silk jersey knit chosen for the color - not so great against my face, but perfect for lining this tunic.

I submitted the simple cami project remembering how much I loved sewing and wearing those types of tops in the early 80s. I also hoped that it would be used as a starting point for some creativity.

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To turn the cami into a lace tunic, I made some very simple changes to the pattern and instruction. Let me walk you through them. Please note that this lace tunic does take more than one yard of fabric. In fact, I used so I could match the lace pattern and have the scallops along the hemline.

1) Lengthen the cami pattern to your desired tunic length. I played with the edge of the lace fabric to determine where it would look best on me before deciding to make the tunic 20" long. I also added width to the lower edge giving me more room in the hip area.

2) Cut front and back from lace fabric. In retrospect I should have cut these out single layer because I was working with lace that had a distinctive pattern and I managed to get the pattern off slightly. You, of course, will not make that same mistake!

3) Cut a front and back from a contrast lining if using lace fabric. Unless you're bolder than I that is. I cut the lining 1-1/2" shorter than the tunic and hemmed it just by serging the bottom edge.

4) Sew the side seams in the lace tunic as well as the lining tunic. You'll now have two tunics - one lace, one lining. Place the lining inside the lace matching the upper edges; baste together.

5) If you want shoulder straps (like I do so I don't need to purchase a strapless bra) you will want to measure how long you will need your strap. Measure from the top front edge, over your shoulder, to the back top edge. The finished length of my strap was 14" (This included 1" seam allowance for sewing to the top of the tunic.)

6) Cut four shoulder straps 3-1/2" wide by 14" long (or whatever measurement you came up with in step five.) Two from the lace, two from the lining.

7) Turn and press after sewing the lace and lining straps together. (Place one lining strap to one lace strap, wrong side together, and sew the the long edges together using a 1/2" seam allowance.)

8) Pin the straps 5" in from the side seams on the front, and 5" to 6" in from the side seam on the back. Try on and adjust if necessary. Baste in place.

9) Sew the elastic casing. Using 1/2" bias tape, sew the tape to the top edge of the tunic and sew in place using a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim the excess top fabric. Turn tape to the wrong side of tunic and press.

10) Make the casing for the elastic. Separate the lace and lining sections. Sew the tape along the bottom edge, securing only to the lining fabric, to create the casing. Be sure to leave an opening at one side seam to insert the elastic.

11) Insert elastic. Measure a piece of 1/4" wide elastic to fit comfortably around your upper chest. Cut and insert into the casing. Secure ends of the elastic together. Sew the opening in the casing closed.

12) Add thread loops. Thread loops, using a coordinating thread, were added to hold any belt or ribbon that might be worn below the bust.

Wear the lace tunic loose...

...belted at the waist...

...belted under the bust...

...or add a ribbon and bow.

As you can see, the finished lace tunic appears quite different than the 30-minute cami sample shown in the book.

Stay tuned, as I have a few more variations completed that I'll share with you.
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Forbidden...

Ha! I knew that would get your attention.


Just wanted to know if any of you have experienced this message when trying to add yourself as a follower to a blog.

Forbidden

You don't have permission to access /friendconnect/settings/simpleSave on this server.

Sheesh. I finally have time to get around to all of the fabulous sewing blogs out there and add myself as a follower and this happens.

I'm at a loss as to how to get around it. Any tips?

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